1989 Ford Festiva Idles fine bogs on acceleration

dannyboy524 · 2014-05-22T18:37:35+00:00

I purchased a 89 Ford Festiva L. The fuel pump, fuel filter, Dist. cap, rotor ignition coil, plug wires and the exhaust from the manifold back have been replaced new. It starts, runs and idles fine, after a couple good cranks. However, when I press the accelerator down it bogs, spits, sputters and idles extremely rough with no power, until I release the accelerator, then it once again returns to a nice idle. In doing my own hit and miss research, I found out there is one check engine light code #81. I have since replaced the MAF sensor, O2 sensor. After installing the MAF I reconnected the MAF connector and start the car it idles for a second, then dies. If I unplug the MAF cable and start it runs as before, no change in accelerator issue. The MAF plug was not an issue prior to change. Following the manual I checked the power relay it was ok, however I found the fuel pump relay as faulty, I replaced it and still the same issue. I did however, find out the previous owner ran a switched 12v lead directly to the Grn/Y wire on the fuel pump connector, so the fuel pump runs continuously when the key is in the on position. The Grn/Y wire runs back to the fuel pump, I assume it gives it power. Eliminated the direct switched 12v lead the previous owner installed and I am running with the relay as intended, when I check voltage at the fuel pump plug I only get a cranking voltage of 8-9 volts. Pump does not turn on. Of course when I reconnect the switched 12v lead it works? I can operate the pump as the previous owner has rigged up. I am still perplexed about the bogging issue. Not sure if it is a fuel pressure issue I bought a gauge) or a timing issue. I am using the buy the component and see if it works process, It is getting expensive. I need help in narrowing this a little further and in the right direction. Any advice would help.

1989 FORD FESTIVA

AUTOMATIC

Repair Safety Notice: This information is for general instructional purposes only. Vehicle repair can be dangerous. Verify all information, follow manufacturer service procedures, use proper tools and safety equipment, and consult a qualified repair shop when needed.

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

CAR REPAIR CONTRIBUTOR
110,190 POSTS

My god!!! It should be 36 psi. The regulator must be bad. Yes, that can cause issues.

Jun 25, 2014 at 7:47 PM

DANNYBOY524

MEMBER
22 POSTS

I figured as much. I had to check it twice. I looked at your video again, I was thinking between 50 & 60 psi. When it shot up to 70 twice it seemed wrong.Now just to be sure I did this correctly, I connected the gauge on the fuel line right after the filter before it goes into the fuel rail. Is there another way to check the regulator be for I buy one?

Jun 25, 2014 at 8:01 PM

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

CAR REPAIR CONTRIBUTOR
110,190 POSTS

The fuel pressure regulator works off engine vacuum. Remove the hose and check to see if there is any gas in the vacuum hose. If there is, it's bad. Also, make sure there is vacuum to it if it is dry. The pressure should drop when the vacuum is reapplied to the regulator.

Jun 25, 2014 at 8:24 PM