Timing chain and gears

Truck was running, but had no power. Dist. Was turned 180 degrees, #5 on cap was where #1 should be. Timing marks were in line up on comp. Stoke. I changed timing chain anyway. Turns over good but will not start. I turned the dist. 180 degrees so #1 on cap would be facing the cab of the truck. What's Wrong? I would pay but I don't have a credit card.

Wont start changed timeing chain, fuel presser regulator, fuel relay, destibuter, have 40psi to rail i'm lost can you please help me

Have good spark its trying to start injecters are good just wont fire up

1985 Ford F150 302;5.0;FI - no fire to the distributor; the truck jumped time and needed to replace the timing chain however I cannot get any fire to the distributor cap. I replaced the coil, inigition module, distributor, cap, and rotor button. Also, current/fire is going thru both sides of wires comming out of the coil is that good?

Truck died while driving and wouldn't restart. I had fire to every plug and had Just replaced the distributor module so, I was baffled. I had the truck towed to a shop where they told me it was the timing chain and gave me an estimated cost of $600.00 to $650.00. I called some other shops and was told that this is a fair estimate. The issue is: that I only paid $800.00 for the truck and I don't have an additional $650.00 to through at it. This is my only vehicle so I'm kind of stuck. I researched the parts, and I mean everything; the chain, the sprockets, all of the gaskets, a new cover with crank sensor, and water pump total was 238.00. If I opt out of the new cover I can get the parts for about $96.00. Bye the way, the truck ran great before this issue. Now, having told you all of that and not having a Hayes manual handy, do you have to pull the motor to change this out? I have always done my own work, just not internal motor work. If I don't have to pull the motor, I'm positive I can do this. Advice.

The mod is brand new. Had similar no start problems and the new mod fixed it. I did use the grease. When I had the new no start problem I had the mod tested three times. I had fire on all cylinders and good fuel pressure. That's why I took it to the shop. They pulled the tc cover and found the stretched out chain with some links broken. Now they want almost 7bills to fix it. Thought I could do it myself if I don't have to pull the motor.

I brought the truck in for CA smog check today and it passed emissions really well, but failed for timing.
It was 7Â btdc instead of 14Â btdc.

I never really paid much attention to the timing before because it is electronic ignition and the distributor has been frozen in place for 20 years or so.

I looked at my smog check paperwork from 2 years ago, and see that I have only driven the truck about 400 miles. The timing in 2012 was 14Â.

What could cause the timing to change in such a few number of miles?

I put less than 1,000 miles a year on it because I only use if for picking things up.

I went back through my previous smog checks and see that the timing has varied, though since it never failed smog for timing I didn't pay attention to it.

Year Mileage Timing RPM
2014 65723 7Â doesn't say but I saw him measure it at idle
2012 65382 14Â
2012 65376 14Â it failed this test because EGR passed was plugged with carbon
2008 63357 14Â
2006 62367 16
2004 60664 12Â It was sitting on the rollers and didn't even move from the pretest yet changed
2004 60664 8Â I did a pre test that year, but it passed timing even though off 6Â

The truck is a Federal vehicle, not California.
I got it in 1985 with about 38,000 miles. It has always run well and no symptom of timing chain jumping.

Since I suspect it will be difficult to get the distributor unstuck, is there some component that might have worn to cause the timing variation?

If not, any suggestion for unsticking the distributor, or methods not to try because they will break something?

I have a timing light to check it.

Thanks

It didn't look like he had the vacuum advance disconnected, but I didn't see any point in mentioning that, because then it would have been even less.

It did look like he had an adjustable timing light.
It had a digital readout on the back and it looked like it was counting down from 16 to 0.

He was middle aged, has worked there several years, and seems to know what he is doing.

I went to a STAR smog check station.

Is the timing measured by the wires they hook up under the hood connected to their computer machine and he was just verifying with the hand held timing light, or is the timing checked manually with the light only?

If the timing is checked automatically, I don't think operator error, as suggested in one of the responses is likely.

The timing was off 7Â at idle, vacuum advance should have been disconnected anyway, and mechanical advance you said doesn't kick in until over idle.

The timing had been measured at the correct 14Â just 400 miles earlier.

I don't notice any difference in how it runs either.
I would think a 7Â retard would make it idle slower at least and maybe affect low end performance.

Engine Cooling problem
1989 Ford F150 V8 Four Wheel Drive Manual

I've got the cover off, still mounted to the water pump. Got the fel-pro gasket set and I got the old seal out.I just don't want to mess up putting the new seal in. Any tips? It looks like it should install from the inside of the cover. Is this right? Can I get the seal started then tighten the timing cover down to set it? Thanks.