Jeep CJ7

Tell me this: Do you have 12 Volts at the POSITIVE SIDE of the COIL, while it's running. What do you have there?

I can help you with this and any other CJ problem you have, if you'll hang with me!

I have answered MOST of the CJ5 and 7 Questions for the last 2 years.

Keep replying here at this Post (any CJ Question you have.I do not know everything. But I do try hard, and with personal pics) I will continue to reply (forever, I presently have the largest---on-going Car (CJ) Answer going at this site's history. Still going!)

I will link you there, when you reply here, Lot's of good CJ info in it!

Waitin' on you Buddy

The Medic

Ok this time, insure you get the coil that states: FOR USE WITH EXTERNAL RESISTOR!

We will get into that DEEPER, when I get back from the store!

Is your rig stock, or has it been Scavenged over, and "Rigged" over the years---This is important for me to know, so that we can get you back right.

Any other Non-Stock Modifications?

I'm here for the long haul!

Don't run it if you do not have to, till we get you straight!

Your Turn. Wifey hurrying me along now!

The Medic

2nd thought, do not get the coil till I find out about possible Mods!

The Medic

Thanks for the Update---Does change things. Just a little!

Get something straight--- JEEP NOT = TOY. JEEP = The Biggest Mechanical Break-Thru, Man Has Ever Devised!

Gonna Send 2 answers. To keep stuff separated. Don't jump in, till I send second!

1st Sounds as though you are getting full Battery Voltage to the Coil Continuously--WRONG!

Originally you had a RESISTANCE WIRE that Reduced Coil Voltage. For LONGEVITY. NOW YOU DO NOT.

There are 2 things we need to FIX

1) Reduce Voltage to the coil, when Jeep is running---No Problem!

2) Install a device to do this task.

3) Get FULL BATTERY VOLTAGE TO COIL, when Starting only. This may still be intact on yours--if not, we will run another wire to solve that issue too!

I need to know if your Jeep Operates Correctly (Starting and running) With your Key Switch?

OK, 1st pic----My '77 CJ 5 running (This may vary slightly)---Voltage to Coil. Continued.

OK--The resistance wire looks just like a wire, if it's just been "SNIPPED" and spliced onto. It still has a little resistance---WE DO NOT WANT THAT!

If this is the case--the POSITIVE wire to your coil, needs to be traced back toward the Key---NOT THE "I" Terminal of the SOLENOID (If it still goes to the solenoid--THAT IS GOOD!) <<
As you follow this wire, ORIGINALLY it will splice into Maybe 2 other wiresThat is our starting Point (the other wires are not resistors), to run a. Let's say 16 Gauge wire, back to the coil>>>>>>Except we are gonna install a "BALLAST RESISTOR". Somewhere in that line---IT REDUCES VOLTAGE!

If you are not already voltage of battery (due to Your Modifications)Test your "NEW"starting point against battery voltage, at the battery----KEY ON--JEEP OFF

Let me know how this works out---We are FLEXIBLE!--Can change!

We must select a good place for it---It get HOT!--MUST BREATH!---OUT OF THE WAY. Its ceramic with a wire coil in it, and FRAGILE!

This too, can go bad. If it does, you can simply connect or jumper across the wires (Giving full voltage once again, to LIMP back in. Basically what you have NOW!)

The Wire Coil in this thing is fragile, since it gets HOT sorta in one spot. Thats why they went to the Long Resistance wire, in order to spread out the "Warmth", throughout the entire wire.

JUST REMEMBER YOU HAVE THIS INSTALLED. KEEP IT IN PLAIN SIGHT. SO YOU CAN BYPASS IT IF NEED BE!

This is my 1946 WILLYS JEEP (this pic), HIS NAME IS "WILLY". Manly names for manly vehicles.'77 is "Mr. Jeep". No "Sissy" Stuff around here!

IN THIS PIC, I converted (Rather wired completely from nothing, As I threw the entire Original body away [shot], and installed a fiberglass one) It was 6 Volts---Now 12 Volts. Still got points in the distributor.

We will discuss "I" Terminal next!

Your Turn

The Medic

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Sunday, February 13th, 2011 AT 3:47 AM

All Righty Then

You ain't come back yet.I got time to hunt and peck awhile. It's 2 in the morning here.

I'm gonna throw in explanations of your solenoid. This is gonna be a pick of Mr. Jeep's with YELLOW writing on it. Also one with Willy's solenoid with Numbers and letters on it.

Both are connected IDENTICAL, 'cept Willy's may have fewer accessory wires on the POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE SIDE of it.

I CAN SEND YOU A SIMPLIFIED WIRE DIAGRAM (THAT I CONSTRUCTED) OF WHAT YOU ARE DEALING WITH. IF YOU DESIRE.

YOU MAY SEE IT BETTER IN YOUR E-MAIL. SO IF YOU WANT TO, CLICK ON MY NAME AND SEND ME A MESSAGE CONTAINING IT (IN MESSAGES, IT WILL NOT BE BROADCAST WORLDWIDE!)

THE BIG REASON I DO NOT WANT YOU TO JUST CHANGE TO A DIFFERENT COIL IS, LATER YOU WILL FORGET (OR SOMEONE ELSE WILL) AND YOU WILL BE BACK IN THE SAME BOAT.'CORSE THAT COULD HAPPEN WITH THE BALLAST RESISTOR TOO! THAT'S WHY I SAID KEEP IT IN PLAIN SIGHT! SOME "COIL HOLDERS" HAVE A TAB WITH A HOLE STICKING OUT FROM THEM, YOU CAN BOLT IT ON, RIGHT BESIDE THE COIL, IF YOURS HAS ONE.

THE PICKS AND EXPLANATIONS WILL EXPLAIN WHAT THE STUFF IS ON THE SOLENOID. AND IF HOOKED UP EXACTLY AS MINE, YOU CAN "REMOTE START" OR "CHEAT THE START CIRCUIT" OR "BUMP THE ENGINE". USING A SCREWDRIVER. ACTUAL STARTING REQUIRES THE KEY TO BE IN THE "ON POSITION".

BUMPING, THE KEY NEEDS TO BE OFF AND THE "COIL TO DISTRIBUTOR CAP HIGH TENSION WIRE" REMOVED, TO PREVENT ACCIDENTAL STARTING. INSURE YOU ARE IN "NEUTRAL" OR "PARK" WITH THE TRANSMISSION.

AT LEAST YOU WILL KNOW WHAT EVERYTHING DOES. And WHEN AND NOT WHEN, IT SHOULD HAVE VOLTAGE.

I went back to another answer to get this. I Copied, Pasted, and put the pics back in.'Cause I hunt and peck slowly, and try to proofread several times before I submit.

IT WAS SORTA INTENDED FOR SOMEONE WITH A "NO START ISSUE". SOME OF THIS AT THE BEGINNING, IS FOR OTHER VEHICLES (NEWER TYPE). WHAT YOU NEED IS TOWARD THE END.

LOOK AT AND UNDERSTAND "I" TERMINAL---IT IS IMPORTANT AT START-UP!

OK the 1st part was sorta for other applications, but you will see what I intended for a CJ. Ask me questions, CJ fixin' is my Crusade at this site! I will assist you on a more personal, "HOLD YOUR HAND THRU IT ALL!" Level, than some of the other fellers. See other CJ5 & 7 questions in the forums, you will see the extent I go to assist CJs. THERE IS GOOD INFO YOU MIGHT NEED IN THERE, TOO!

CHECK YOUR FUSES!---YOUR OWNERS MANUAL MAY SHOW YOU LOCATIONS THAT YOU KNEW NOTHING ABOUT!

REMOVE AND REPLACE "SUSPECT" FUSES SEVERAL TIMES--THIS MAY SCRAPE OFF CORROSION AND GIVE THEM BETTER CONTACT!

THIS WILL WORK FOR YOU, PROVIDED THAT YOUR BATTERY IS GOOD---OR YOU CAN BE JUMPED OFF!

REMEMBER "NEW STUFF" CAN BE BAD TOO!

YOUR STARTER MAY BE BAD!

YOUR SOLENOID MAY BE BAD!

Try the stuff below (actions), Even if this isn't your system.

Yours may not look like this, but TAKE STUFF LOOSECLEANTIGHTEN WELLDO NOT JUST PASS IT OFF AS, "IT LOOKS GOOD".

Do not leave off where the Battery cables connect to the Battery clamps! (Not the posts, the "squeeze connections" on the wire) Do them too!

While you are at it, Both ends of Pos cable, Both ends of NEG cable.

If you still have the problem. Follow Battery Positive cable to find the Solenoid.

Clean and tighten the starter connection!

My stuff may be OVERKILL, but at least you will know what everything is and does.

Like my newly made "NELSOMATIC" stuff? I am cyber stupid, and did that! Keeps me from hunt and pecking so much!

Follow POS BATT CABLE, It will end up at MR. SOLENOID, yours may look different, but function is the same

Insure you are hooked up correctly and tight.

Make sure "S" WIRE is attached to the Solenoid

"OLD FORD TYPE" SOLENOID SYSTEM, YOUR ACCES, MAY VARY (This was really intended for Jeep CJ People!)

1) POSITIVE CABLE FROM BATTERY

2) OUT TO STARTER MOTOR

3) ON MY JEEP, THIS GOES TO THE ALTERNATOR

4) THIS FEEDS MY FUSEBOX (ALL OF MY ACCESSORIES)

5) "S" WIRE IS FROM KEY, 12V ONLY WHILE YOU ARE "CRANKING"

THIS WIRE ACTIVATES THE SOLENOID'S ELECTROMAGNET, WHICH IN TURN, CONNECTS---A and B INTERNALLY (ONLY THE 2 LARGE GAUGE CABLES CAN HANDLE THE AMPERAGE THE STARTER "PULLS").

WHEN THE SOLENOID IS ACTIVATED, IT THROWS 12V TO STARTER USING THE LARGE GAUGE CABLES (1) POS FROM BATT--THRU SOLENOID INTERNAL CONNECTION--(2) TO THE STARTER, WHILE KEY IS IN "CRANKING" MODE.

THIS IS THE TOTAL REASON FOR A SOLENOID, BECAUSE IT WOULD NOT BE PRACTICAL, TO RUN THE HEAVY CABLES TO AND FROM YOUR KEY SWITCH.

6)"I" WIRE, FEEDS COIL "FULL 12V", ONLY WHILE "CRANKING", AFTER YOU RELEASE THE KEY, THE COIL REVERTS BACK TO REDUCED VOLTAGE (resistor wire), SUPPLIED BY YOUR KEY IN THE "RUN" POSITION."I" DIES, when you release the key.

7) "SOLENOID MOUNT" [BODY GROUND], UNIT MUST HAVE A GOOD GROUND (BATT. TO ENGINE, ENGINE TO FRAME, FRAME TO BODY [ALL MUST CONNECT, SOMEHOW. But BATTERY to ENGINE 1st!] )

(3 and 4, ON MY 1946 WILLYS JEEP) ARE FUSABLE LINKS, ALL ARE NOT MARKED, MY #3 IS, #4 IS NOT. ITS SORT OF A "WIRE" FUSE.

IF THEY ARE GOOD, TUGGING ON THEM WILL BE JUST LIKE A WIRE, WHEN THEY ARE "BURNED UP", THEY WILL STRETCH OUT LKE A RUBBER BAND.

If your SOLENOID is good---Just not getting a "Signal" from the Key--We can test that too! (Then you will know which direction to chase this problem. Toward the key! [Ignition switch])

"S" is the wire that activates the Solenoid----we can sorta cheat it!

Regardless what you do to cheat it, You are suppling 12 VOLTS to the "S"('s) terminal on the solenoid. This is momentary as if you are cranking with the key

STAY CLEAR OF MOVING PARTS!IN PARK--OR EMERGENCY BRAKE ON!

I prefer a "Remote Starter Switch"

A Jumper wire momentarily touched or a Screwdriver touching POS BATTERY or POS BATTERY CABLE to the "S" terminal will by-pass the wire from the key

This will for sure let you know whether its a Solenoid problem or a Key ( ignition switch not delivering 12 Volts)

This will start your rig if your key is in the "ON" Position

IF YOU HAVE A CJ 5 OR CJ 7---YOUR WIRES SHOULD BE HOOKED UP, EXACTLY AS MINE ARE, IN THE PICS!

JEEP CJ GUYS!--If you changed your coil and did not get the one that says, "FOR USE WITH EXTERNAL RESISTOR ONLY". You NEED TO GET THAT ONE! You have just "DOUBLED" your resistance (w/ one with a internal resistor), and DO NOT HAVE ENOUGH VOLTS TO MAKE IT FIRE! (Your resistor is a "RESISTANCE WIRE" going to the coil already!)

Please Reply, Good or Bad

I WILL RE-EXPLAIN ANYTHING, DIFFERENTLY, IF YOU WANT ME TOO!

I'M HERE TO HELP, THIS IS MY HOBBY, I AM A MEMBER HERE, JUST LIKE YOU!

YOUR TURN. Now it's 3 in the morning!

THE MEDIC

SO FAR. YOU DONE GOOD!

OTHER ISSUE, WE CAN WORK OUT!

YES, ALL YOU HAVE INQUIRED ABOUT, IS PROBABLY YOUR COILS' SHORT LIVED LIVES. WE'RE GONNA FIX THAT!

RIGHT NOW, LETS FIND OUT IF YOU HAVE FIRE. OR NO FUEL, IN YOUR CYLINDERS!

THE EZist, THING TO DO IS HOOK EVERYTHING BACK UP, AS YOU WERE. BEFORE YOU CAME TO THIS SITE. THEN GIVE THE CARB A SLIGHT DOUSE OF FUEL. NOT MUCH, MAYBE 4 CAP FULLS OF GAS (THAT'S A 2 LITER SODA BOTTLE CAP!)

CRANK IT DOES IT SPIT AND SPUTTER AND TRY. OR IS IT DRY, OVER AND OVER ROTATIONS?

IF IT'S THE LATTER, SNATCH A PLUG, GROUND IT AND SEE IF THERE IS SPARK THERE, WHILE CRANKING.

I KNOW IN YOUR MIND, WHEN YOU BEGAN THIS---"IT HAS TO BE THE COIL AGAIN"

MAYBE NOT THIS TIME. BUT WE STILL NEED TO GET EVERYTHING RIGHT ANYWAY!

GIVE ME YOUR RESULTS FOR THE FUEL/ SPARK TESTS, SO WE KNOW WHICH DIRECTION TO CONTINUE IN.

WE'LL DO THE BALLAST AND "I", JUST AS SOON AS WE CAN MAKE IT RUN.

WE DO NOT WANT TO MANY NEW VARIABLES, IN THE STEW POT YET!

I SHOULD BE PREPARED FOR ALMOST ANYTHING WE COULD RUN INTO (GOT MANY PRE-MADE PICS IN RESERVE!). SHY OF A "WIRE ISSUE" THAT GETS OVERLOOKED ON YOUR END.I WILL HANG WITH YOU AS LONG AS IT TAKES.I KNOW YOU ARE SAD, WHEN YOUR PAL IS SICK!

I'M PRESENTLY CUSTOMIZING YOU A WIRE DIAGRAM.I DO NOT HAVE THAT COMPUTER ON-LINE, THROW YOU OUT SOMETHING PRE-MADE, AS THESE CERTIFIED MECHANIC GUYS SUBSCRIBE TO.I HAVE TO MAKE MY STUFF FROM SCRATCH. YOU WILL LOVE IT. IT WILL BE PERSONALIZED TO YOUR PROBLEM, AND A 1ST GRADER, SHOULD HAVE NO PROBLEM UNDERSTANDING IT.

YOU DO KNOW I AM A PLUMBER, WITH 30 YEARS OF EVERYDAY, HANDS ON, CJ EXPERIENCE.1987 WAS THE LAST TIME ANY OF MY CJs WENT TO A SHOP, EXCEPT FOR WHEEL ALIGNMENTS.

WHAT ARE YOUR TEST RESULTS?

THE MEDIC

I'M HERE--JUST BUSY, MAKING THIS EZ FOR YOU.

THE MEDIC

ALL RIGHTY THEN---LONG TIME MAKE PICS AND MODIFY--SHORT TIME FOR YOU TO TEST.

WHILE WE ARE AT THIS, LOOK AROUND AND MAKE SURE, YOU AIN'T JUST LEFT SOMETHING LOOSE OR DISCONNECTED.

MAKE SURE YOUR ROTOR BUTTON ROTATES WHILE CRANKING HIM OVER

MAKE SURE YOUR EVIL BUDDY DIDN'T LAY YOUR ROTOR BUTTON ON THE SHELF!

JUST LOOK AROUND!

THIS NEXT TEST CAN BE DONE BY YOUR WIFE OR A KINDERGARTEN STUDENT----YES. WHO'S THE MAN!

THIS TEST HAS ALWAYS WORKED FOR ME, OTHERS INSIST ON A "NOID" (I DON'T HAVE ONE EITHER!)

SORTA LET ME KNOW HOW I'M COMING ACROSS

I ALREADY KNOW THE SLOW, HILLBILLY, REDNECK PART

WE WILL CONTINUE. TOWARD SOMETHING. WHEN YOU COME BACK

DON'T JUMP AHEAD, IF YOU FIND SOMETHING. BECAUSE, YES I WILL SHOW YOU THE EZ WAY TO DO IT. AND YOU WON'T GET ALL MESSED UP, LIKE THE OTHER GUY I AM STILL ASSISTING. HE JUST SNATCHED OUT HIS DISTRIBUTOR, GOT ANOTHER. AND IT TOOK FOREVER TO GET HIS BACK IN RIGHT!

YOU DID SAY YOU HAD VOLTAGE TO THE POSITIVE SIDE OF THE COIL?

I'M STILL WORKING ON YOUR PARTIAL WIRING DIAGRAM

YOUR TURN

THE MEDIC

OK-READY TO GO!

LET ME KNOW WHATS BEEN DONE THUS FAR

I CAN HELP GET DISTRIBUTOR BACK IN---IF YOU DID, SNATCH IT OUT!

THIS DIAGRAM MAY LOOK BETTER IN YOUR E-MAIL---GO TO MY MESSAGES, AND LEAVE YOUR THERE (IF YOU WANT THIS AND ANYTHING ELSE, I WILL GLADLY SEND MY "MODIFICATION PICS" TOO [CLICK MY USER NAME AND READ])! IF YOU WANT THIS AND ALSO THE REST OF IT (UNALTERED, AS THIS IS ALTERED NOW)

REMEMBER, THIS IS A 1979 DIAGRAM, MUCH OF IT APPLIES TO OTHER YEARS. THIS IS THE ONLY YEAR (THUS FAR) THAT I HAVE COLORED THE WIRING. YOU CAN ACTUALLY QUICKLY FOLLOW THEM, AND I USED AS MUCH OF THE CORRECT COLORS, THAT I COULD, TO CORRESPOND WITH THE JEEP.

IF WE STILL ARE HAVING AN ISSUE NOT CRANKING. LETS CHECK THAT MODULE AGAIN. THIS TIME YOU MIGHT EVEN TAKE IT TO A DIFFERENT PLACE (AUTOZONE AND ADVANCE AUTO, BOTH TEST 'EM FOR FREE!)

I KNOW THIS IS AN INCONVENIENCE, BUT LOOKA HERE, I'M DOIN THIS FOR FREE TOO. DIS IS MY HOBBY!

THIS TIME, LETS WATCH AND SEE IF THEY HOOK UP RIGHT. THEN TEST 5-8 TIMES (THIS WILL WARM IT UP) SHOULD IT FAIL THE LAST FEW

WHAT? YES, REPLACE IT!

AS YOU PUT YOU HAND ON THEIR DOOR HANDLE TO LEAVE, WITH YOUR NEW ONE.

TURN YOUR BUTT RIGHT AROUND, GO BACK TO THE COUNTER, AND HAVE THEM TEST "THEIR" NEW ONE 5-8 TIMES.

THERE'S NOTHING LIKE TEARING YOUR ENTIRE JEEP DOWN (EVEN THE WIRING) FOR 2 DAYS. BECAUSE IT, >>>>WILL NOT START!<<<<, THEN YOU TAKE THE BRAND NEW>>>UNTESTED MODULE, >>>BACK TO THE STORE, ONLY TO FIND OUT, >>>IT TOO!<<
SEE HOW MY PERSONAL---"BAD CHAPTERS"---MAY BENEFIT YOU, PROBABLY BETTER THAN THE OTHER MECHANIC FELLERS PASTIN' STUFF IN (THEY ARE GOOD IN WHAT THEY DO) BUT MANY HAVE NO ACTUAL WITH NO HANDS ON JEEP CJ EXPERIENCE, LIKE MY 30 YEARS OF HARD KNOCKS DRIVING AND REPAIRING, OUT OF PURE NECESSITY!I TRY TO CRAWL UNDER THE HOOD WITH YOU. SAY?. YOU WANT ME TO HAND YOU THAT VOLTMETER, OVER THERE!

ARE YOU ABLE TO FOLLOW MY COUNTRY-FIED TECHNICAL TURBULENCE. IF NOT LET ME KNOW

WAITIN' ON YOU

THE MEDIC

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Monday, February 14th, 2011 AT 3:05 PM

ROGER ON THAT,

YOUR CONNECTOR WAS JUST LIKE MINE. ONLY THE COLORED WIRES (FROM THE DISTRIBUTOR END) LEADING INTO EACH "PRONG" WERE A DIFFERENT COLOR. TRYING TO VERIFY YOU HAVE A STOCK DISTRIBUTOR OR NOT!

I CANNOT MAKE A LINK--BUT YOU CAN COPY AND PASTE THIS ONTO A NEW TAB. LOOK IT OVER WELL, LET ME KNOW IF THIS IS YOU. HAD TO USE 1981 FOR THE JEEP YEAR TO GET A 304.
DID YOUR PAL TRY IT, AND GET THE SAME RESULTS? (2ND OPINION)

THE DISTRIBUTOR HAS "8" MAGNETS, ON 8 ARMS, ON A "STAR", BELOW YOUR ROTOR BUTTON. AS EACH MAGNET PASSES THE PICK-UP COIL. IT SENDS OUT A PULSE--TO TELL MR. IGNITION MODULE WHEN TO "MAKE" MR. COIL SHOOT A SPARK. BROKE PICK-UP = NO SPARK.

LOOKS LIKE WE NEED A NEW DISTRIBUTOR THEN!

IT'S SORTA WAY TOO MUCH TROUBLE TO REBUILD YOURS. BESIDES YOU GET A LIFETIME WARRANTY WITH THE OTHER!

HERE'S THE PLAN:

LEAVE YOURS ON THERE---AND GO TO ADVANCE AUTO OR AUTO ZONE, GET A RE-MANUFACTURED ONE, FOR AROUND $50 + A CORE CHARGE.

THE FELLER IN THE OTHER POST, TURNED HIS IN AT PURCHASE, THE ONE THAT WAS SOLD TO HIM WOULD NOT WORK, NOR THE NEXT COUPLE THEY GAVE HIM. AND THE WORST THING WAS, HIS ORIGINAL WAS GONE. SO THEY COULD NOT LOOK AT "CASTING NUMBERS" TO LOCATE THE CORRECT ONE!

SO, GET YOUR CORE $$$ BACK AFTER YOU ARE RUNNING!

VERIFY MY INTERROGATION QUESTIONS AND LET ME KNOW WHEN YOU ARE READY TO REMOVE THE OLD AND INSTALL THE RE-MANUFACTURED ONE

BEFORE YOU EVEN TOUCH THE OLD ONE (MUST DO SOME STUFF BEFORE IT'S ROTATED OR TAKEN OUT), I WILL SEND YOU "NELSOMATIC" PERSONAL INSTRUCTIONS, SO THAT WE WILL NOT HAVE TO GO THRU THE HASSLE OF FINDING TOP DEAD CENTER. AND THIS WILL GO IN SMOOTHLY AND EZily!

NEXT QUESTION--IS YOUR >>>CAP<<< MARKED WITH A "1" UNDER ONE OF PLUG WIRE POSTS?

DOES IT TRACE ON OUT TO THE NUMBER 1 SPARK PLUG (CYLINDER)? IT COULD BE THAT IT DOESN'T. IT REALLY DOES NOT MATTER WHERE "1" IS, AS LONG AS FIRING ORDER STARTS ON THAT POST!

IF THATS THE CASE, WE WILL GET IT THERE, THAT WOULD MAKE IT TEXTBOOK PERFECT. BUT I GOTTA KNOW, JUST SO WE CAN ADD THAT INTO THE "NELSOMATIC" PROCEDURE.

I KNOW YOU ARE FOLLOWING MY DIRECTIONS (I HOPE) BUT WERE YOU ALREADY CAPABLE OF DOING THIS STUFF WITHOUT ME.I GUESS WHAT I MEAN IS, ARE YOU AUTO MECHANICAL ALREADY, IN THIS DEEP. DID YOU KNOW ANY OF THESE PROCEDURES ALREADY?

AM I EZ TO FOLLOW OR TOO "HICK-A-FIED"?

YOUR TURN

THE MEDIC