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Hello, I was driving my Beetle down the hwy at.

Tiny
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Electronic / magnetic points (do not require adjustment / do not wear out).

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=397477

Make sure the wire from the points to the condensor pin is not touching ground somewhere... or that the wire got crimped between
the distributor housing and the distributor cap.

Thomas
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Sunday, December 30th, 2012 AT 11:57 PM
Tiny
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Found a picture of a ground wire in the distributor that I was talking about. Circled in red in the attached file below.

Thomas
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Monday, December 31st, 2012 AT 12:02 AM
Tiny
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LOL. You didn't hook the reverse lights to the coil negative did you?

The reverse lights get power from coil + (#15). I had a customer who connected it to coil neg. Engine died every time reverse gear was used.
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Monday, December 31st, 2012 AT 12:06 AM
Tiny
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Here are the pictures and no I don't have the type of points you are referring to. Does it sound as if my new coil is already bad?
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Monday, December 31st, 2012 AT 12:13 AM
Tiny
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If the test light does not light up when attached to the coil neg (nothing else attached) and the key is ON, then yes, that coil primary circuit is burnt
out / has an open.

Try the old coil.

Is the bare wire in the distributor (circled above) OK?
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Monday, December 31st, 2012 AT 12:16 AM
Tiny
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Is your Idle Cut-off solenoid also on coil negative? That would be the problem!
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Monday, December 31st, 2012 AT 12:18 AM
Tiny
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If you would have not circled that ground wire I would have NEVER know what you were talking about. Lol. I did find it hadn it is attached and not caught up in a bind. It does look old but it is attached at both ends and not severed. Also, I can't guarentee that I have never hooked up the back up lights to the negatvie side of the coil, but right now the only thing over there is the wire going to the points/condensor and on the positive side is the igniition, the back up lights, carburator, and the choke. Um one thing I did check is the ignition wire is giving me 12 volts and then there look like a ground that splits off this wire and grounds or goes to the bottom of the engine. Now, that wire has 12 volts on it also UNTIL I plug it to the ground (or whatever) then it drops to like 2.75 volts. I don't know if this is doing anything but.
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Monday, December 31st, 2012 AT 12:30 AM
Tiny
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Sorry for the runaround.

Just talking it out to myself:

Coil + Power side:
- power wire from front
- backup light wire
- idle cut-off solenoid

Coil - Side:
- condenser wire
- tach (if equipped)

Remove any wires on the + side except for the actual power wire and the cut-off solenoid.

I'm not sure what other wire you are talking about that goes down to the engine (back-up lights possibly).

Re-test the old coil in the same way.
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Monday, December 31st, 2012 AT 12:36 AM
Tiny
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Hey partner, good news! I did the test on the old coil that you recommended and I DO get a solid light. Let me install it real quick and then go through the testing procedures you suggested. I have tried the old coil before and it still would not start but maybe using it will help me diagnose the other issue. Hang tight
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Monday, December 31st, 2012 AT 12:40 AM
Tiny
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Bud, Finally its done and I know this is going to sound wiered as wierd can get but here is the deal. I replaced the coil (placed the coil in that was good), turned the engine on and I be dang if the dern test light WILL NOT come on again when I connect the to the negative side. What the heck? Lol
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Monday, December 31st, 2012 AT 1:32 AM
Tiny
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You only have 1 wire attached to the coil at this time? The power wire. And the test light on the negative side of the coil?

Take a close-up picture of the ignition coil with wiring attached.

I'm on the west coast and can go for a while longer. If it's getting late for you, we can continue tomorrow.

Thomas
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Monday, December 31st, 2012 AT 1:37 AM
Tiny
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HOLD ON MY MAN. I think we are making some head way! The light DOES come on when I took off the condenser wire and just apply the light to the negative end of the coil. Does that mean the condensor wire is bad? It is a new condenser! But it may have burned up when my brother hooked it up backwards.
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Monday, December 31st, 2012 AT 1:39 AM
Tiny
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Yes. If the points are open but the light is OUT when the condenser is attached, then the condenser is shorted.

Good find!
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Monday, December 31st, 2012 AT 1:42 AM
Tiny
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Well right now, I don't have ANY wires attached to the negative side of the coil NOT even the condensor wire. The light comes on like this when I test it. However, when I plug the condenser wire up to the negative sid eof the coil and use the test light, the light will NOT come on. EVER. Does this mean I need a new condenser?
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Monday, December 31st, 2012 AT 1:46 AM
Tiny
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Remove the distributor cap and rotate the engine by hand. You need to see the points open and close as you rotate the engine.

If the light stays OFF while the points are OPEN, then yes, plug your old condenser in and give it a try.

Thomas
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Monday, December 31st, 2012 AT 1:49 AM
Tiny
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Take a picture of the distributor with the Rotor OFF. Close-up of distributor.
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Monday, December 31st, 2012 AT 2:00 AM
Tiny
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I am going to call it a night. Sorry for taking so long to get back but I rushed to town real quick before the parts placed closed and bought another condeser real quick. I got home, installed it and it does the same thing which is, I can't get the test light to shine at all on the negative coil while the condenser wire is on the coil. If I take it off, it shines bright? I attached the picture you requested. Maybe we can take it up tomorrow. Thanks again for ALL your time. You hav ebeen helpful.
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Monday, December 31st, 2012 AT 3:27 AM
Tiny
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The little bare wire is broken. Don't worry about that for now.

The points are currently closed. Do they actually open?

Will pick it up tomorrow!

Thomas
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Monday, December 31st, 2012 AT 3:33 AM
Tiny
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I'll be at work tomorrow. We have a '68 Beetle there. I'll record some video and will post
it on my Youtube Channel when I get home.

Do the same test again:

- leave the condenser attached to coil neg, but disconnect the points from the condensor pin
- key on
- light should light-up
- if not, then the voltage is grounding out through the condenser

I'll do the same and will post my findings.

Once you / we find where the voltage is grounding out, you / we will find the cause of
the "no spark" issue.

Thomas
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Monday, December 31st, 2012 AT 7:27 AM
Tiny
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Good morning Thomas. I know it is still early on your side of the country. I will be jumping on this thing around noon here. Thanks again for your help. I was wondering why you take the time to help us flunkies like myself? I know it takes alot of your time. I will run the test that you stated in your last post and let you know around noon.
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Monday, December 31st, 2012 AT 1:58 PM

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