To add a bit to the advice Joe gave, a quick way to test the voltages is to use a simple test light and a couple of small pins, First disconnect a coil on a good cylinder, now connect the test light to the two wires with the pins and have someone try to start the car, watch the light, it should flash as the firing signal activates that coil. Now reconnect the coil and do the same test on the bad coil connection. No flash? Take the ground side of the test light out of the connector and touch it to a known good ground, does the light come on? Yes- voltage is okay, control side is the issue, No light, put the wire back to the pin and disconnect the power side of the test light and connect it to battery positive, try starting the car, does the light flash like it did on the "good" coil feed. Yes? Control side is okay. power feed is bad.
To repair it you have a couple options, the fast way would be to just bridge from the bad coil to a good coil feed. The better way would be to locate the splice in the harness shown in the diagrams, then open the wires there and replace the red wire that feeds the coil. If it failed at or between the splice and coil that removes the bad wire, and if it is corrosion at the splice you will discover that and can repair it.
If it's the control side that is the issue then you can use the guide to track the correct wire to the PCM and test there.
Jul 22, 2021 at 10:26 PM