Engine will not start

We should check the engine ignition for spark first and then go from there. Check at the bottom of the guide to the spark check. Can I ask if the engine is cranking over (starter working)?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Here is a guide that can help as well:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.

Cheers, Ken

About a month ago I had to have a new water pump installed but the technician did not properly clamp a hose. I drove off and the next day my vehicle overheated and then shut down. I guess they are made to do this to protect engine. Anyway, I had it towed to garage where they immediately found the hose clamp problem. However, ever since that occurred the engine will sometimes turn over but not start. I wait a few minutes and then it will fire. I took it into dealership and they said they could not find anything wrong. So I left. It is still doing it. I called the service manager who has no idea and will not admit it has something to do with the shutdown due to overheating.
I did not have the problem prior to the overheating and automatic shut down. This has to be related. At this point I do not trust him. I need a second opinion.

It sounds like the crankshaft angle sensor is going out which could be due to the heat of the overheating engine. When these sensors go out it may or may not leave a code this is why the dealer could not find anything.

Here is a guide to show you what you are in for when doing the job:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

Here is a what it will be like on your car (below).

You may need to raise the car up safely.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/jack-up-and-lift-your-car-safely

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken

Sometime my car doesn't want to start all the way up. The lights and radio with turn on but the car wont. After trying to start it three times it finally starts. My battery and alternator are in good condition. Could this me my ignition switch?

Hi Kristina,

Can you tell me which engine you have? Also, when you say the car won't turn on does it turn over (crank) or just click or do absolutely nothing?

This will help limit down what the issue could be. Thanks

I posted a video. It is a 6 cylinder 3.6L flex fuel.

That is great. Thank you. Just so we are seeing the same thing, it is actually starting and then dies off almost immediately? So the RPMs come up like it is going to start normally but then it just stalls out? Then after about 3 times of doing this, it starts normally?

If all of this is the case, then I am fairly confident that you have a fuel pressure issue. Most likely the fuel pump is failing. What happens is the engine starts and dies on the remaining fuel pressure that is in the system and then it takes 3 attempts to get the fuel pump to get the fuel pressure back up.

You actually have a saddle type tank so you have two fuel pumps. The main fuel pump contains the fuel pressure regulator so my guess is the main fuel pump is the issue. If you have a fuel pressure gauge you can test this theory pretty easily. Just connect it to the fuel rail and then monitor the fuel pressure when it does this and my bet is it will be pretty low if not 0 psi. As you crank it, you will see it start to build then by the third time it is high enough to start the vehicle.

This is not your ignition switch because that is an electronic switch and it either allows the start or it does not. The PCM and WIN (wireless ignition node, what you put your key into) need to have what is called a secret handshake. This is a communication that these two modules agree that it is a good key to start the vehicle and the PCM sends the commands to start the vehicle. If this fails then you would turn the key and nothing would happen or the cluster would say invalid key.

Let me know if what I asked above is correct and if you have a fuel pressure gauge. Thanks

Dear, my 2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo (VIS 1J4RR4GG9BC709626) has an intermittent starting problem. It is not always, but happened 4 times in the last 30 days. Basically, it doesn´t start at the first try, it cranks and cranks but doesn't start. Then I just press the start button (switching off and on ) without pressing the brake pedal. After that, I press the brake pedal and the start button and the car starts right up normally. It looks like the car is out of gasoline, but for sure it isn´t. I took the car to a Jeep Garage and they said I must change an engine module (part # is 05150656AA) that cost around USD 2.5 k here in Brazil. Too expensive! However, it sounds they don´t know what is actually the reason of the problem and just want to sell me an expensive part to make money. I would appreciate if you could help me? Thank you very much!

When it doesn't start, have you been able to check fuel pump pressure and for spark to the engine?

No I don´t how to do it.

Go to our homepage under the DIY section and you will find both directions and videos showing you how to do it. Let me know what you find.

When you get in and push the brake pedal then push the start button the engine turns over for the period of time it is programed for the the starter will stop. Then you repeat this start procedure and sometimes it will do this several times and still don't start. Then the next time you try it, it will start just like there is nothing wrong? I had it into the chrysler shop for repair they reprogrammed the flash. This made no difference? As I said it does not do it every time but will do this a couple of times a day and some times has done this for more than 15 times in a row before I left it set then a few hours later tried it and started first time.

Has anyone checked the fuel pump pressure when this happened?

We haven't been able to have it happened when it was at the shop. I left the vehicle there for a day and it didn't happened. As soon as I drove it home the next morning it wouldn't start. When it is running there is no power loss or black smoke or anything like that. Just runs fine?

I want you to try something. When the problem happens and it won't start, see if it will start for a couple seconds using starting fluid. By doing this, it will tell me if the problem is in the fuel system or the ignition system.

That sounds good to me. I have starting fluid and I will try that. Today I had the jeep into the shop and we pulled the Totally Intergrated Power Module and tested the #10 pin then used a test light to check the dark blue wire with the orange stripe to insure we were getting power to the fuel pump. every thing appears to be working properly with that. Unfortunately the vehicle started everytime we tried it and never missed once other than first thing this morning. The first start this morning it turned over several seconds i was expecting it to time out on the starter just then it started but didn't miss a beat the rest of the day. I will be prepared tomorrow morning if it don't start I will use the starting fluid.

I have tested the TIPM and found the relay located on the C5 conector #10 pin is not activating everytime I attempt to start the engine. I have tested it each time I go to start the engine and this morning I found it was not sending power to the fuel pump eveytime. When i pushed the start button i had a test light on the dark blue wire with the orange tracer line and on the first try it was not getting power. After turning over for 8 or 9 seconds the test light came on but the engine start cyclle timed out. I tried it again the light come on bright right away and the engine started. Apparently there are allot of problems with the Totally Intergrated Power Module on the jeep grand cherokee.

I had a feeling it had something to do with fuel pressure. Isn't technology wonderful?

My vehicle will not start. I have power but won t start. I was told to pull the fuse for a couple seconds then put back in and should start . My question is what fuse do I pull?

Good morning,

That is inaccurate information. Where did you hear that? There is no fuse you can pull to make it start.

Do you have a voltmeter to do some tests for the starting system?

Check the fuses I circled for power on both sides. Let us make sure there is power to the relay.


Roy

Check engine light on did read evap codes and dash error read “ Check gas cap” . Replaced gas cap and reset computer, check engine a gas cap warnings kept coming back. Had leaky radiator, replaced. Gas cap warning stopped coming on fit check engine light still on . Replaced charcoal canister valve box in rear “looked damaged , corner was split”. Reset again, check engine light back on. Vehicle did run , kind of seem to bog some at acceleration and almost stalling idle at intersections. Now all it does is crank but no start. Reads only code P0004. Says replace fuel pump. I’ve heard that replacing fuel pump may not be the problem. What else should I check before replacing pump? Or is that what it definitely is?

Hello,

Could you please double check the Direct Trouble Code[DTC] number for us again? The list of "P" codes for your vehicle starts at P0013A and goes up from there. There is no listing for DTC P0004. Please get back to us with what you find out and we can go from there.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

My 2007 JGC wont start...just got it back from the garage for hesitation and bucking, they replaced the front control module, now it doesnt want to start. any ideas?

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.