The engine will not idle?

My car starts up fine but lately has been shutting off. I thought it was the battery so I changed it and my car still started up fine but shut off again. I took it to a mechanic where he felt it was not my alternator (alternator test) he said he needed to run more test. He said it isn't my spark plugs because my car is not misfiring even though he mentioned I have the wrong spark plugs in my car. He stated it could be electrical or that it may be the idle air control valve but didn't promise that that part wouldn't resolve the issue. Please help before he takes me for everything.

I replaced the timing belt, water pump, then radiator. Car starts then dies. I have replaced ecu, distributor, fuel pump, ignition switch, coolant temp switch, coolant temp sensor, junction block and all relays, fuses ect.

Got up in the morning car started but no power, touch the gas dies out put in gear dies out nurse the engine for 3/5 min rpms and power come up seems once its warm no problem go to work 8 hours later cars starts and runs fine next morning have the same problem do the same nursing with the engine and i'm good to go for the day. Need some ideas thanks jim

I will get back to you as soon as I can thanks

Sorry for the delay did not think I could get trouble code off of 1993 without a reader thanks for the heads up. Codes were 14 and 52 change the knock sensor(52) no help. But I thought I was on the right track. Anyway I changed the idle air control and that fixed the prolbem. Never would has guessed. Thanks for the help.

Four cylinder front wheel drive manual transmission.

A couple weeks ago, my car started hesitating once it got to its normal operating temperature at slow speeds. It was intermittent, mostly when I was accelerating from a stop. When I tried to accelerate, the rpm's would fall to around 200 to 400, with no shaking or backfiring. I had really step on the gas, it might creep forward a few inches, stop, creep forward again, then the rpm's would jump up and my car would take off like nothing was wrong or it would stall. When it stalled, it would start right back up usually, sometimes stalling again or would drive like there is nothing wrong with it.

The problems gotten a lot worse. My car reached normal operating temperature on the highway and the rpm's suddenly dropped off, but picked back up again. Once I got off the highway, my rpm's would drop off every time I would slow down, and my car would try to stall out. Once it stalls, it will not start until my car's had time to cool off, and will not run unless it has cooled off for at least forty five minutes.

Now this happens every time I drive it and it gets to its normal operating temperature. If I am in traffic, the temperature will creep slightly over its normal, and I start having trouble.

I have changed the distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs and wires, air filter, fuel filter, and coil out a few days ago, and it has not helped. The fuel pump is only six months old. I have checked for vacuum leaks, and taken a look at my PCV valve, pressure regulator valve, lines, etc.

Any help with this will be greatly appreciated.

Hello Ken, I replaced CTS and also cleaned throttle body and IAC valve. I have a new distributor and just for results I changed the coil. I have tested the TPS and the map and aci. I have fuel pressure and the fuel pump works and the filter is new. I am at a stand still. The car will crank runs great until engine temperatures are normal, when I try to pull away it will stall. It may crank back up if I apply the gas heavily but will stall again when not applying gas. I have checked the fuel pressure regulator for leaks, none. Plugs are re-gaped and cannot find any leaks. It does not have a ERG. 7AFE 1.8L. Please help!

By the way, I have no codes. The ECM does work.

Hello Ken, before we say catalyst. Could the fuel pump will work but become weak enough to cause this problem? The pump is not new, but I checked it on a battery terminal 2 pumps and they sounded good. I have pressure but I did not check with a pressure gauge (turned the real bolt).

My car will start, but runs rough. If I push on the gas pedal the car wants to die. If I keep pumping the pedal it will stay running, but real rough like its starving for gas. If I spray starter fluid into the carburetor it runs smooth.

Engine dies while stopping from any speed from less than 20 to more than 60 mph when having to stop faster than what would be considered ideal! This makes my son's drive to school everyday unsafe so he has been using my car until I can get this under control! I have been unable to find the problem and hate to replace parts just hunting for the right fix! The facts: front brake pads and rotors new, rear brake linings and drums good shape and in adjustment, no leaks at master cylinder, wheel cylinders, or calipers. Engine runs and idles fine in park, reverse, and drive with a/c on and off. There is no tale tell signs of brake booster problems, so no hissing, pedal pulsating, leak down of pedal, and seems to pass all "shade tree mechanics tests" both with engine running or not and even at start up. Lastly, car can be restarted by putting car in neutral even before the car has come to a stop! If it were carb'd. I would be looking at fast idle solonoid or other but being fuel injected I have no idea so please be discriptive in your answer!----Thanks all help is appreciated!