Wiring problem?

Hi,

I'm looking through the wiring schematics and the fuses you mentioned all get power from fusible link K.

I attached a pic of the link locations below. Check to make sure none are damaged. Check for power at both ends of the links to see if one has failed. Note: There will be a total of three gray links. One of them is link K. It isn't shown in the manual which one. There also will be four black ones. They are not of concern.

Let me know what you find.

Take care,

joe

See pic below.

Well, thank you sir but I had no luck I was all excited thinking I was going to finally get to drive it.

Where does the other end of that group of wires go? I would say the fuse box, right?

Where does the other end of that group of wires go? I would say the fuse box right?

Hi,

Yes, those will go to the box. A fusible link works just like a fuse but is in wire form. It is designed to melt (disconnect) if the amperage exceeds its limits.

Were you able to check both ends? If you want, disconnect the battery and follow the wires. Using a multimeter, check if there is continuity in the fusible links from one end to the other.

Let me know. Also, I do feel this is the source of the problem. However, I've been wrong before. LOL

Let me know.

Joe

Okay, thank you. I will try that after work today. Any other ideas or pointers would be greatly appreciated.

I have no power to the crank fuse and the ip dimmer fuse is not getting power, but the car starts up.. it runs really rough, I'm so confused .

Hi,

Wiring can be confusing, so don't think you're going crazy. LOL Just hang in there and we'll get it figured out.

Now, the crank fuse should only have power when the key is in the start position. Power comes from the ignition switch. I'm saying that because you may not have checked it for power when the key was in the start position. See pic below.

The dimmer switch for the IP is powered by the headlamp switch. If the headlamps work, chances are the switch itself is faulty. There is a built-in circuit breaker for the IP dimmer/lighting. It may have failed. See pic below

Let me know. Also, do the other fuses you mentioned before now have power? Also, have you scanned the computer to see if there are diagnostic trouble codes stored? In your original post, you indicated a new battery and no response from the starter. Since it is running (rough), I suspect the starter is now working. Is that correct?

Let me know.

Joe

See pics below. Note: I had to cut the schematic in half to make it readable. I did overlap the two and highlighted wiring and fuses of interest.

I haven't found a scanner that works on it. I have to buy a cable with a USB end and get some software downloaded to do it? and, yes, the other fuses I talked about before now have power.

Yes, the starter works fine.

Well, now I have power to #1#2#9#10#11#12 fuse box under the hood but still don't want to run so I unhooked the battery getting ready to hook it back up, wish me luck.

Hi Tommy, if this still has the OBD1 system, you don't need a scanner to retrieve diagnostics trouble codes. All you need is a short jumper wire or even a paper clip.

Here is a link that explains how to retrieve them. Follow this and let me know the results.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/buick-cadillac-chevy-gmc-oldsmobile-pontiac-gm-1983-1995-obd1-code-definitions-and-retrieval-method

Let me know what you find.

Take care,

Joe