The disconnecting the negative battery cable is just resetting the PCM, some faults need to be detected a number of times (or key cycles) before any codes are set, so you're just erasing any of the fault data when you disconnect the battery.
Just looking back on the previous case folder, it has been a while, you mentioned the wires for the fan were getting hot, I assume you have the relay wired into the Ignition switch, is the load side of the relay coming from any specific fuse? So, the side of the relay that feeds power directly to the fan? I know you're planning on restoring everything to its original setup, I'm just wondering if the fans power feed is coming through the PCM in any way. If the power is coming off any fuse, which one is it? The wires getting hot means there is too much current flowing through those wires, sometimes when a fan fails, it will take out the original relay or fuse panel first, appearing to be a fault in the relay or fuse panel, when the actual failure was the fan drawing too much current, it can be deceiving. Especially when you start getting communication codes popping up as well. It's difficult to find the root cause of what is really happening. That is definitely the issue here.
So, if we can track down the circuit that the fan is on right now and see if it leads to any circuits that can't handle that much current flow. With excessive current flow, it can take a longer time until something finally burns out. Since most automotive components are designed for some heat and exposure to the elements.
Sunday, July 2nd, 2023 AT 12:43 PM