Whine/Buzz coming from Engine?

It sounds like the oil pump has come apart internally which is common. This is why they are switching over to a belt driven pump in the newer engines. Can you please upload a short video of the noise so I can tell for sure? Here is the oil pump I am talking about. Check out the images (below). Please let us know what happens.

Hi Ken, thanks for the reply. I do not have a video of the sound. However it sounds just like this video at the 2:30 mark https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2EuXLIskQtY

I do have the oil pump and all timing gears out. Here is a link to a google drive with photos and videos of the pump, tensioner, chain, crank sprocket and actuator. I found no wear on the crank sprocket spline or oil pump spline receiver that I could detect with a fingernail. There is a video "crank sprocket to oil pump rotor 2" which shows the fit between two two parts. I would guess a machinist would say "sliding clearance fit" about 1 thou over.

For the various pump wear marks, I could not catch my fingernail on any of them. The wear in the picture "oil pump pressure adjust spring" is interesting to note. I could not find any broken parts in the pump.

Here is the link to all the pics and videos: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ziIZ0si_uYwt1Vn9obM7NbBE-gamIoCR

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ziIZ0si_uYwt1Vn9obM7NbBE-gamIoCR?usp=drive_link

Also there are two videos showing the timing chain slack on the actuator and crank sprockets. "actuator chain slack" and "crank sprocket chain slack 2"

The pictures "timing chain wear" and "timing chain wear 2" show some wear on one side of the chain that corresponds to the guide of the tensioner "tensioner guide"

Hi Ken, thanks for the reply.

I do not have a video of the sound, as the engine is apart now. However, it sounds like this video "buzz sound" at the 2:30 mark. Note, this is not my vehicle, and I do not have this code.

Here is a link to a google drive with photos and videos of the pump, tensioner, chain, crank sprocket and actuator. I found no wear on the crank sprocket spline or oil pump spline receiver that I could detect with a fingernail. There is a video "crank sprocket to oil pump rotor 2" which shows the fit between two parts. I would guess a machinist would say "sliding clearance fit" about 1 thou over.

For the various pump wear marks, I could not catch my fingernail on any of them. The wear in the picture "oil pump pressure adjust spring" is interesting to note.

Also, there are two videos showing the timing chain slack on the actuator and crank sprockets. "actuator chain slack" and "crank sprocket chain slack 2"

The pictures "timing chain wear" and "timing chain wear 2" show some wear on one side of the chain that corresponds to the guide of the tensioner "tensioner guide".

Here is the video of the buzz sound. Not mine but sounds just like this. from 2:10-2:50

Picture of timing chain wear.

Crank sprocket to oil pump rotor fitment.

The oil pump.

Video showing chain slack on actuator.

I did not see any broken parts in the pump. Anything special I should look for?

I think you found it with the loose gear on the crank sprocket to oil pump rotor fitment. Nice work. Also, change the oil and filter that should fix it.

Okay, thanks Ken!

Let me know how it goes, I am interested.

Hi Ken,

I am just installing a new timing chain and want to ensure I have it aligned correctly between cam and crank. The center hole on the tensioner is offset, so it is confusing me a little, and I would like a second opinion.

see video showing the alignment.

Thanks for the video, yep that looks good. I would run it!

Hi Ken, I got the oil pump primed and installed. Installed timing cover, oil pan, vacuum pump and starter installed. Paid very special attention to the oil pan gaskets to make sure I did not knock them out during install.

Since there is no oil priming port on these Gen Vs (vacuum pump now covers it), I primed the engine by running flood clear mode. I attached an OTC manual pressure gauge to the engine and ran flood-clear for about 60 seconds until pressure showed on the gauge (around 20-30psi).

I then started the engine. Oil pressure is pretty darn high 70psi at idle cold. 0-20W oil, ambient temperature is about 40degF.

Previous oil pressure at idle was about 56psi cold same wight oil. Do you think the pressure will come down after the pump breaks in?

You might have an oil pressure solenoid that is clogged with metal from the old pump, did you look at it when it was apart, I should have said something before sorry about that. Also, is the noise gone?

Hi Ken, I replaced the oil pressure solenoid along with the timing chain, and lower gear. I cleaned up the oil pan and timing cover area very well, so hopefully it was not clogged from anything there. Could the valve lifter oil filter screen, near the oil pressure sender at the top front of the engine potentially cause this? I did not replace it (yet).

The oil pump has a pressure relief spring so it should regulate the MAX pressure, Is this a high volume oil pump replacement? I don't think a valve lifter can cause this, maybe try and running the engine more to see if it settles down. Also, is the noise gone?

Hi Ken, it is a genuine GM OEM pump replacement, which is 2 stage. I did not install any kind of an upgraded pump. It is cold here, which can contribute to the high pressure. I have not yet run a full warm up cycle.

Since I don't have all the cooling system connected I did just a couple of short runs of the engine at idle. Unfortunately, the fans kick on full blast because the PCM detects a cooling system issue, so it is hard to tell if the noise is gone. I am slowly putting it all back together this week and will soon know.

Sounds good, also, you may have a weak oil pressure sensor that shows more pressure than there actually is. Let me know how it goes.

Hi Ken, well everything is fine now. Cold oil pressure are 50psi. I did replace the sensor with new OEM, plus also I did not have the front ground connected, which may have caused a ground float on the sensor.

However, the noise did not go away. Ah well. At least I have some new parts. I think once I get the axle and steering back in I will disconnect the tranny at the TC to make sure it is not trans, then hook up the chassis ears to the scope, and do a bit of noise/vibration analysis.

Hmm, can you start the engine for a second without the serpentine belt off of the engine to see if noise noise going away?

Yes. I removed all the belts (AC, vacuum pump and serpentine) and the noise still persisted. Obviously, my stethoscope skills leave something to be desired.

No worries. I am not sure what is making the noise, you could have a broken crankshaft. Which is why they got away from the crank driven oil pumps and went to a chain instead. I think the engine needs to be torn down to see what is going on. Please go over this video series to help you:

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLe3kz1i_LrtX5402mzO6ovoz8xeUdwZ8B

I don't know what else to do at this point. Can you please do one more video of the noise without the belts on so I can hear it?