When I brake it shakes?

Tiny
BECCI4
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 BUICK LUCERNE
  • 65,000 MILES
At low speeds when I brake the car shakes. The steering wheel does not. It doesn't seem to be the tires. What could this be? I just had the brake pads and barreings replace about four months ago.
Wednesday, April 17th, 2013 AT 10:09 PM

12 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,873 POSTS
Brake rotors are warped. This commonly occurs with new rotors, especially those made in China. When we make parts from cast iron we let them age for 90 days before the final machining. When the Chinese make them they cast them, pack them, and ship them right away, then they age on your car. One light machining by the shop that did the brake job is usually all that's needed.
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Thursday, April 18th, 2013 AT 1:42 AM
Tiny
BECCI4
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Thank you so much. :)
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Thursday, April 18th, 2013 AT 7:15 AM
Tiny
JABSTER38
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 2006 BUICK LUCERNE
  • 165,000 MILES
So I changed the front pads on my 06 buick Lucerne and everything went as planned but when I went to brake no pressure even tho I had pumped the brakes a few times and have bled them there is still no pressure really to the pedal till it almost hits the floor and my passenger side will bleed just fine but my drivers side will not bleed a drop. So I have no idea what could be going on.
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 5:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MADMIKE1735
  • MECHANIC
  • 951 POSTS
How did you compress the front calipers? Was the driver side very hard to compress? When you bled them, you had fluid out of both sides? How did you bleed the brakes. I know this sounds dumb, but some people have one person inside pump the pedal, then hold. The outside guy opens the bleeder. Or you open the bleeder 1st, then have inside guy push pedal to floor and hold until you close the bleeder. Im just trying to figure out what may have happened. Its rare to just lose a pedal after replacing pads. I have seen the seal on the master cylinder blow by trying to "pre pump" the brakes too fast, and hard. Only way to check this is unbolt the 2 nuts from the master, and pull it forward to inspect for leakage. You can break your system down into sections also. Try visegripping your caliper hose on one side, then pump up the brakes. See if you can get a rock hard pedal with the car off. If you have the hose crimped, and the pedal gets hard, your problem lies past the vise grips, and is in the hose, or caliper. If you find this to be the case, replace both sides. (When you buy socks, you dont buy 1 sock) whatever you do on one side, perform same action on the other side.
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 5:35 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JABSTER38
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
I compressed them as I would normally by taking an old pad putting it up against the cylinder bores and taking a c clamp and pressing it back in. And I had fluid come out of the driver side hose for a split second and then it stopped again. I had 1 person pump the pedal a few times then hold it while I opened the bleeder valve. I changed the master cylinder cap the day after because the rubber grommet seal was torn. And I could hear the pressure back the second I put it on. I have done many brake jobs in my case and none of those has done this. When the car is off I have a full rock hard pedal its just when I turn it on that it does this and I have all the brakes to see if it was the issue and nothing is coming out of the drivers side bleeder but I do get a little from the hose.
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 5:35 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MADMIKE1735
  • MECHANIC
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If your getting fluid out of the driver side hose, and none out of the caliper bleeder, then there is an issue with the caliper. (Assuming your bleeding the hose at the closest point to the caliper) it compressed ok, so remove the bleeder screw, and see if that helps. If still no fluid, then replace the hose. Does this have drum brakes in the rear?
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 5:35 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JABSTER38
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Like I unbolted the banjo bolt from the caliper and hit the pedal and a little bit is coming out but not a full stream and no its disc all the way around
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 5:35 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MADMIKE1735
  • MECHANIC
  • 951 POSTS
It should have poured out. Replace the hose, sounds as if its collapsed internally. Start here.
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 5:35 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JABSTER38
  • MEMBER
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OK thank you so much
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 5:35 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MADMIKE1735
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Hey there, just wondering if you replaced the hose, and if your problem is solved?
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 5:35 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CHARLIE JYNXS
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2006 BUICK LUCERNE
  • 3.6L
  • 245,633 MILES
I went to drive my car to get my title to get a lone to fix it and the rear break line went out. I am not sure if it is one or both sides. When I depress the peddle I can hear air coming out of the drinkers side rear. The peddle goes just about to the floor, but the front breaks seem to be able to stop the vehicle. Would it be okay to drive it to were I have to go to get what I need so I can take it to the shop to be fixed?
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 5:35 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good afternoon

No, you are using just the safety portion of the master cylinder which is the front brakes. They will heat up from over use and the fluid will boil resulting in total loss of the pedal.

You would need to find another way to the store.

Roy
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 5:35 PM (Merged)

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