Front wheels shake?

Most if the time you will have a tire coming apart, I would raise the front of the car and spinning the tires to confirm. This video can help with a guide as well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xLFn_bMkZc0

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/steering-wheel-shakes-when-accelerating-or-braking/

Please upload a short video in your response of the problem, so I can see what's going on

I don’t think that is the cause cause tires are new

Hi guys. Still do the test that was recommended. If this is a two-wheel-drive model, support the front end on jack stands under the frame rails, run it in gear, then watch the spinning wheel to see if it wobbles side to side. A broken tire belt will make the tread surface walk side to side as it rotates, but the bead and wheel will be true. If you see the wheel also moving sideways, and this just started with the new tires, there's three common causes.

The least common is a wheel got bent due to carelessness with older style tire changers. Some were strong enough to bend wheels if the shoe caught the wheel instead of the tire's bead.

A more common cause is when the wheel was off, rust or debris broke free and fell behind the mounting surface of the brake rotor. Usually you'll feel that in the brake pedal too, as well as a wobble in the steering wheel.

The most common cause of a wobbling wheel is debris got caught between the brake rotor and the wheel. I have a '94 too, along with four other Caravans. In '94, it was common to find cast wheels, and it is common for small chunks to break off due to corrosion. Often pieces will stick to the brake rotor, then you have a one in five chance of reinstalling the wheel in the same orientation, with that chuck going back where it was before. There's an 80 percent chance the wheel will be rotated to a different position, then that chunk holds the wheel from sitting tight against the rotor. You generally won't feel that in the brake pedal, but you will see it in the steering wheel.

There's other causes of a wobbling steering wheel or shaking, but they don't really fit with your description of the symptoms. Specifically, pulling to one side right after new tires are installed points to a tire problem, including brand new tires. Some high-end wheel balancers are designed to measure "road forces" on new tires, and when excessive, there are things we can do to minimize that.

If your steering wheel is off-center now, it suggests "camber" has shifted on one wheel due to the lower strut mounting bolts not tightened enough. That causes the wheel to tip in or out on top, leading to the pull, and due to the geometric relationship of the steering and suspension parts, it also makes that wheel turn left or right. You have to counteract that by turning the steering wheel to one side to make the van go straight. The shaking comes from the tires walking toward or away from each other until the sidewalls can't flex any more, then the tread snaps back as it skids across the road surface, then starts walking sideways again. You're more likely to feel that at higher speeds.

Wear inside one of the inner CV joint housings will also set up a miserable steering wheel shake, but only under load, and it usually goes away above 35 - 40 mph. The two times this is most likely to show up is right after a remanufactured half shaft is installed, (usually the right one), or right after the right engine mount is replaced. That one is adjustable and sets the engine's position side to side. That new mount could move the engine as little as 1/8" left or right from where it was. That causes the rollers in the CV joint to run in a different area, then, if there are worn spots, the rollers run in and out of them three times per tire revolution. Again, this only shows up at lower speeds and when under load, such as when turning out of a parking lot and accelerating.

When you're looking at the spinning wheel, usually one will stand still. I like to use a 2x4 under the spinning tire to stop it. That will cause the other one to start spinning. Do this carefully and hold onto that board. If the tire grabs it too hard, it can spit it out the back. Once the spinning tire stops, I put a block under the 2x4 to hold pressure on that tire. When the inspection is done, I prefer to turn the engine off, then wait a few seconds for the wheels to stop spinning before placing the shifter in "park". Otherwise, just use the brakes to be sure both are not spinning before shifting to "park". Don't do this test on all-wheel-drive models unless all four tires are off the ground.

If you don't see any obvious wobble, switch the two front wheels / tires side to side. If the van pulls the other way now, it's definitely a new tire issue. I had that years ago, but after switching them side to side, the car went perfectly straight. If the pull stays the same, switch the two left wheels / tires front to rear. If the symptoms change, it's due to one of those tires. If there's no change, switch the two right wheels / tires front to rear.

After all of this, if the pull is still the same, suspect the alignment has shifted. Chrysler used special "cam" bolts with offset heads for one of the two bolts on the bottoms of each front strut. Those do a good job of preventing camber from shifting when hitting bumps and potholes, but if they're not tightened sufficiently during an alignment, they can move, resulting in a pull to one side and that off-center steering wheel.

For the alignment, both front wheels are tipped out on top a small amount, (0.30 degrees), which is a little less than what's called for on most vehicles. Then, I found that the left wheel has to be exactly 0.06 degrees more than on the right wheel to offset "road crown". That's the slant on roads so water runs off. That 0.06 degrees is way too precise to be measured on older mechanical alignment equipment. Alignment computers used for a long time now can measure to that accuracy, but only if the specialist sets his computer to read to two decimal places. Many don't when they value speed over precision. There are tricks to achieve these very precise settings quite easily, but here we're talking about an annoying drift to one side over one or two tenths of a mile. To have a pull as hard as you described, you have to tug constantly on the steering wheel to prevent going into the ditch or the other lane. That's not a simple tiny error in the alignment. If you can't find the cause with the things we suggested, return to the shop that installed the new tires and have them recheck their work. Tire quality today is a lot better than even those from the 1980s, but we still do run into one every once in a while that is affected more by road forces.

One more thing to look for is if a front brake is dragging. That will cause the hard shaking and a very hard pull, but it typically starts after a mile or two or after you apply the brakes for the first time. It is felt more at higher speeds. The additional symptoms are the brake pedal will be abnormally high and hard, and after a few miles, one front wheel will feel much hotter than the other one. If you find this, the cause most often is a constricted rubber flex hose attached to that caliper. I've run into this three times on two of my vans. There's a metal bracket crimped around the middle of the hose. Rust builds up inside that crimp, squeezing the hose, trapping the brake fluid and preventing it from returning freely to the reservoir. Open that crimp up a little with a large flat-blade screwdriver or Channel Lock pliers. Once you're familiar with this fix, it can be done in less than a minute, without removing the wheel.

Related to that is brake fluid contaminated with a petroleum product such as engine oil, transmission fluid, power steering fluid, axle grease, or penetrating oil. The first clue to look for is the rubber bladder seal under one of the brake master cylinder caps. If it's blown up and mushy, or slimy feeling, repairs will likely cost more than the van is worth, especially if it has anti-lock brakes. Every part that contains a rubber part that contacts brake fluid has to be removed at the same time, all the steel lines must be flushed and dried, then all new rubber parts installed. I've been involved with three of these. One was filled with power steering fluid. Two were filled with transmission fluid. Those two made the tired, soggy brakes real nice for a couple of days, then the brakes locked up and wouldn't release.

That's all I can think of at the moment. If you can add any other details, history, or observations we might be able to steer you to a solution faster.