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Check engine light is on, put it in reverse pushed the gas and it started rocking back and fourth really hard

Tiny
TAM3103
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 MAZDA 3
  • 2.3L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 217,366 MILES
My cars been shutting off and taking forever to start. Today I started it put it in reverse pushed the gas and it started rocking back and fourth really hard from under the front end of the car. Put it in drive and pushed the gas and it did it really bad like a constant back and forth jolt, put it in park and it stops. So I turned it off and left it where it was at. What would cause that? Check engine light is on and the code I get for it says system too rich. What could bey. Problem?
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Sunday, January 12th, 2020 AT 7:07 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,724 POSTS
Hi,

If the system is running too rich, that means it is getting too much fuel. That can be caused by a bad fuel pressure regulator. Now, to confirm what is happening, we need to test fuel pressure. You will need a fuel pressure gauge, but most parts stores will lend / rent one to you. Here is a link that explains how to check pressure in general:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle for testing pressure. The attached pics correlate with the directions.

_________________________-

2006 Mazda 6 L4-2.3L
Fuel Pressure Test
Vehicle Powertrain Management Fuel Delivery and Air Induction Fuel Pump Fuel Pressure Testing and Inspection Component Tests and General Diagnostics Fuel Pressure Test
FUEL PRESSURE TEST
FUEL LINE PRESSURE INSPECTION

WARNING: FUEL LINE SPILLS AND LEAKAGE ARE DANGEROUS. FUEL CAN IGNITE AND CAUSE SERIOUS INJURIES OR DEATH. FUEL CAN ALSO IRRITATE SKIN AND EYES. TO PREVENT THIS, ALWAYS COMPLETE THE "BEFORE REPAIR PROCEDURE".

CAUTION: Disconnecting/connecting the quick release connector without cleaning it may possibly cause damage to the fuel pipe and quick release connector. Always clean the quick release connector joint area before disconnecting/connecting using cloth or soft brush, and make sure that it is free of foreign material.

1. Complete the "BEFORE REPAIR PROCEDURE".
2. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the intake manifold that connecting to the brake booster.
3. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

CAUTION: The quick release connector may be damaged if the tab is turned too far. Do not turn the tab over the stopper.

4. Disconnect the quick release connector from the fuel tank as follows:

pic 1

pic 2

1. Push the tab on the locking coupler 90 degrees until it stops.
2. Pull the fuel hose straight back.

NOTE:
- The stopper may be removed from the quick connector. Take care not to loose it. Reinstall it to the quick release connector before reconnecting the fuel line.
- The locking coupler has two internal locking tabs which distributor pipe. Be sure that the tab on the locking coupler is rotated until it stops to release two internal locking tabs.

5. Push the SST quick release connector into the fuel pipe and plastic fuel hose into the SST until a click is heard.

pic 3

6. Turn the lever parallel to the hose of the SST as shown.
7. Connect the vacuum hose from the intake manifold that connecting to the brake booster.
8. Connect the negative battery cable.
9. Verify that the vehicles for AT is at N position and MT is at neutral position.
10. Start the engine and let it idle. Measure the fuel line pressure.
- If not as specified, inspect the following:

Zero or low
- FP circuit
- FP
- Fuel line (clogged)
- Fuel leakage inside pressure regulator

High
- Pressure regulator for high pressure cause

Fuel line pressure
430 - 510 kPa 4.4 - 5.2 kgf/sq.cm, 63 - 73 psi

11. Observe the fuel pressure gauge indicator during heavy acceleration.
12. Verify that the fuel pressure fluctuation is within the specification during the test.
- If not as specified, inspect the following:
- PCM
- FP
- Fuel line for improper routing, kinks or leakage

Fuel pressure fluctuation
420 - 510 kPa 4.3 - 5.2 kgf/sq.cm, 61 - 73 psi

13. Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK position.
14. Measure the fuel hold pressure after 5 min.
- If not as specified, inspect the following:
- FP hold pressure
- Fuel injector for leakage
- Fuel line for improper routing, kinks or leakage

Fuel hold pressure
More than 250 kPa 2.5 kgf/sq.cm, 36 psi

15. Complete the "BEFORE REPAIR PROCEDURE".
16. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the intake manifold that connecting to the brake booster.
17. Disconnect the SST.

NOTE: A checker tab is integrated with quick release connector for new plastic fuel hoses. The checker tab will be released from the quick release connector after it is completely engaged with the fuel pipe.

pic 4

18. Inspect the plastic fuel hose and fuel pipe sealing surface for damage and deformation, and replace as necessary.
- If the quick release connector O-ring is damaged or has slipped, replace the plastic fuel hose.

19. Apply a small amount of clean engine oil to the sealing surface of the fuel pipe.
20. Reconnect the fuel main hose to the fuel distributor until a click is heard.
21. Lightly pull and push the quick release connector a few times by hand and verify that it can move 2.0 - 3.0 mm 0.08 - 0.11 in and it is connected securely.
- If quick release connector does not move at all, verify that O-ring is not damaged and slipped, and reconnect the quick release connector.

22. Connect the vacuum hose from the intake manifold that connecting to the brake booster.
23. Complete the "AFTER REPAIR PROCEDURE".

____________________________________

Do this and let me know what you find. I suspect the regulator is bad, but we need to perform the test to confirm. If you determine the regulator is the issue, and I hate to say this, but it is part of the fuel pump assembly at the tank. See pic 5.

Here are directions specific to testing the regulator. This only needs done if you find the fuel pressure to be above the manufacturer's specs.

____________________________________

2006 Mazda 6 L4-2.3L
Fuel Pressure Regulator Inspection
Vehicle Powertrain Management Fuel Delivery and Air Induction Fuel Pressure Regulator Testing and Inspection Component Tests and General Diagnostics Fuel Pressure Regulator Inspection
FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR INSPECTION
PRESSURE REGULATOR INSPECTION

NOTE: Due to the adoption of the mechanical returnees fuel system, the pressure regulator cannot be inspected separately.

FUEL LINE PRESSURE INSPECTION [L3 WITH TC]

Low Pressure Line (From the Fuel Tank to the High Pressure Fuel Pump)

WARNING: Fuel line spills and leakage are dangerous. Fuel can ignite and cause serious injuries or death. Fuel can also irritate skin and eyes. To prevent this, always complete the "BEFORE REPAIR PROCEDURE".

CAUTION: Disconnecting/connecting the quick release connector without cleaning it may possibly cause damage to the fuel pipe and quick release connector. Always clean the quick release connector joint area before disconnecting/connecting using cloth or soft brush, and make sure that it is free of foreign material.

1. Complete the "BEFORE REPAIR PROCEDURE".
2. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the intake manifold that connecting to the brake booster.
3. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

CAUTION: The quick release connector may be damaged if the tab is turned too far. Do not turn the tab over the stopper.

4. Disconnect the quick release connector from the fuel tank.
5. Push the SST quick release connector into the fuel pipe and plastic fuel hose into the SST until a click is heard.

Pic 6

6. Turn the lever parallel to the hose of the SST as shown.
7. Connect the vacuum hose to the intake manifold that connecting to the brake booster.
8. Connect the negative battery cable.
9. Verify the vehicle's MTX is in neutral position.
10. Start the engine and let it idle. Measure the fuel line pressure.
- If not as specified, inspect the following:
Zero or low
- FP circuit
- FP
- Fuel line (clogged)
- Fuel leakage inside pressure regulator High
- Pressure regulator for high pressure cause

Fuel line pressure: 410-490 kPa 4.2-4.9 kgf/sq.cm, 60-71 psi

11. Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK position.
12. Measure the fuel hold pressure after 5 minutes.
- If not as specified, inspect the following:
- FP hold pressure
- Fuel injector for leakage
- Fuel line for improper routing, kinks or leakage

Fuel hold pressure: More than 230 kPa 2.3 kgf/sq.cm, 33 psi

13. Complete the "BEFORE REPAIR PROCEDURE".
14. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the intake manifold that connecting to the brake booster.
15. Disconnect the SST.
16. Connect the quick release connector.

High Pressure Line (From the High Pressure Fuel Pump to the Fuel Injector)

1. Inspect the fuel pressure sensor.
2. Inspect the high pressure fuel pump..

______________________________

Let me know if this helps. Also, if possible let me know what code was actually retrieved that indicated a rich fuel mixture.

Take care and let me know if you have other questions.

Joe
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Sunday, January 12th, 2020 AT 10:55 PM
Tiny
TAM3103
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
I'm starting to think it's the motor mounts. What exactly would happen if the motor mounts are broken? When I start it and it's in park it's just fine I put it in drive it's a constant jerk really bad under the hood, it's like motor is tryin to jump out from underneath the hood, put it back in park it's just fine. So we killed it put it in nuteral and was pushing it back so we could pull it home and while we were pushing it, it makes a clunking noise from under the hood, so we decided it's probably best to leave it where it's at until we have a trailer. But would motor mount cause those problems? And cause it to randomly die and not wanna start?
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 8:48 PM
Tiny
TAM3103
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  • 5 POSTS
It jerks so bad that it broke my rear view mirror off the windshield! And was making my dash pop up in certain places.
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 8:50 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,724 POSTS
Wow:
Try this. Have a helper to watch the engine. Open the hood, start the car, place your foot firmly on the brake as well as have the parking brake engaged, and place the vehicle in drive. Gently press on the accelerator to see if the engine raises. If it does more than an inch, you may have a broken mount.

Let me know.
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 9:11 PM
Tiny
TAM3103
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  • 5 POSTS
Yes the engine moves a lot my husband said it's like the motor wants to jump out of the car. Could it possibly be transmission mounts too or are they all together?
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Tuesday, January 14th, 2020 AT 3:54 AM
Tiny
TAM3103
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
The motor just without holding the brake and pushing the gas it does it as soon as it's put into drive or reverse. What would be the easiest way to check the motor mounts to know for sure? Is there a easier way besides having to put it on a lift? We're right on money right now my husbands out of work and this is our only way of transportation, I can't afford to have it taken to a shop and looked at or worked on it would all have to be done by my husband and his dad.
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Tuesday, January 14th, 2020 AT 3:57 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,724 POSTS
Chances are it is the motor mounts. If you could video what is happening, I can help confirm. As far as which ones, you have to first watch them and then basically do the same process to see which one is causing the issue.

I attached a pic. It shows the two engine mounts and the one trans. I circled a bolt to check. Make sure that is tight as well as all the others.

Let me know what you find.

Joe
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Tuesday, January 14th, 2020 AT 5:44 PM

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