Codes P0511 and P0325, what parts do I buy?

Hello, thank you for your response. :) Is this what the correct part looks like?

Update 3/10/24:
When my mechanic opened the gasket or the part he needed to get to the Idle, he noticed the entire Throttle Body was rusted and old too. Now, I am returning that singular part above and replacing the entire Throttle Body with the Idle Air attached to it. Will update you guys once it’s in.

Now I am getting 2 new codes. I put my car in drive, reverse for 3 seconds, my RPM’s drop to zero as the engine light comes on, and my car won’t go. Here’s the codes. P0107 and P0122. What could be wrong? Is the throttle body bad? I don’t understand, we replaced both parts (throttle and knock sensor). Thank you for your help.

Hi! Update. The throttle bottle ended up being defective, so I got a replacement and that settled that code and issue. The MAP sensor p0107 code ended up being a false read when all this was occurring with my car. It is running smoothly now. Thanks :)

Update: After replacing the throttle body, sadly, my engine light will not stay off. It is reading the same knock sensor code, so I replaced it again. No help... The engine light is still on reading the knock sensor code. I have a question: is there any way that due to my engine light being on for so many months with the knock sensor code that I have to keep erasing the code with the machine? It has to be something simple because my car is running perfectly fine, however, it is definitely something with the RPMs. I say this because I live in Connecticut with lots and lots of hills, and overdrive is kicking in now better than ever before. I’m at a loss for words and hope someone can help in any way. Any suggestions? (I replaced the knock sensor thinking it was bad, but it can’t be. Can it be the Throttle Body Sensor attached to the throttle body? (Even though I bought them new, I am confused as to why my RPMs are being affected still after the light turns on.)

Hi Ken, thanks for your quick response. Yes, same code “Knock sensor 1 Circuit Bank 1 or Single Sensor.” I’m attaching a video of my car once it warms up idling. I don’t think it’s making excessive noise (from what I know.) When looking at the wiring, the wires are exposed, meaning the colors show through and the black rubber is open up top just a bit. However, they don’t look damaged. I have to test the wiring with my father as soon as he can. Thank you :) Let me know how it sounds or if you need a better video. Also I’d like to add I smell gas when the engine starts up but other than that it runs fine.

Hi Ken, can you please let me know if this Voltmeter is good? Does it matter if I get 6000 counts? I’d rather get a high quality one.

Also, can you please send a link of the correct knock sensor wire replacement that I will find once I take apart the side panel inside my car to test with the voltmeter? The wire that goes from the Knock sensor module to the knock sensor itself? I’d like to have it ready for purchase in case it is the wire, which I truly believe it is. Thank you!

For the post: My main problem is reduced engine performance. I have no knock, and my gas isn’t being guzzled. Hope this helps someone.

Here is a photo once I got in. Now, how do I remove the ECU/PCM bolts? Which bolts exactly? I moved the black air thing to the side already.

Hi! So, my father and I are at a loss right now. I have accessed the wires, but we do not know what exact one to test. There are about 5 separate plugs that have many wires in them. So we took out the first “plug” or set of pins (i don’t know the correct name but I attached a photo of what we did) with the wires, and we don’t think that’s the correct wire. How do we know what wire is correct? Everything is so closely tied together and tight that I don’t know what wire to test. Or how to test the PCM. Please help. We removed all the plugs with the wires and have access to the PCM ECM silver box.