Weird popping sound when turning the heater/AC settings, no heat

Tiny
BRIAN JOHNSON2
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 FORD EXPEDITION
  • 4.6L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 180,000 MILES
I have done all the things I've Googled about having no heat. Like; changing the thermostat and heater core. To make the list short I have pretty much installed a completely new heater system and still no heat. What really gets my mind jammed up is when I change the functions like defrost or panel and all those a popping sound comes from under the dash area I think. It only pops a couple times and then stops until I turn the knob to a different setting. It seems to make the noise a little more when I turn the system off. I have parked on a hill with a make shift funnel that's almost 4 feet tall trying to burp out any air, I've even hooked a shop vacuum up and tried sucking any air out and still no heat and that pooping noise. I am have been working on cars for 18 years and never had this big of problem getting the heat back. Please if you have any suggestions that haven't been posted a thousand times already please please help me. Thank you and all that in advance.
Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 5:35 AM

10 Replies

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good morning,

This sounds like the blend door actuator motor that is failing. The gears inside the blend door are stripped causing that noise.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-blend-door-motor

I attached a picture and the procedure for you.

Roy

REMOVAL

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

1. If equipped, remove the floor duct panel.
Remove the two plastic push pins (one each side) and release the expander clip.

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

2. Remove the RH instrument panel brace.
1. Remove the lower nut.
2. Remove the upper bolt.
3. Remove the brace.

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

3. Remove the LH instrument panel lower nut and position brace aside.

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

4. Remove the floor duct.
1. Remove the two screws (one each side).
2. Remove the floor duct.

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

5. Remove the electronic actuator.
1. Disconnect the electronic actuator electrical connector.
2. Remove the three actuator screws.
3. Pull down to release the actuator shaft and remove the electronic actuator.
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Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 8:11 AM
Tiny
BRIAN JOHNSON2
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
The blend door works fine and it's not what is making the noise believe. I've had my ear to everything. I am waiting for the dealership to let me know when I can bring it in and they can deal with it because I give up. Thanks though.
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Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 8:36 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
You are welcome.

Always glad to help.

Roy
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Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 8:41 AM
Tiny
BRIAN JOHNSON2
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
I think it's a air bubble trapped in my heater core and no matter my efforts I can't get it out. So I hope the dealership can and I don't have to tear out my dash and all that to fix or replace it.
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Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 9:01 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Keep us updated.

Roy
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Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 9:04 AM
Tiny
BMDOUBLE
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,139 POSTS
Another possibility that lines up with your description is a broken blend door/plenum assembly, very common.
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Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 9:33 AM
Tiny
BRIAN JOHNSON2
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Do you know if the rear heater core will be affected if I bypass the front heater core? I am hoping by bypassing the front the extra little boost of coolant flow will kick the rear heat back on and I can live with that and maybe a heated seat cover until I have time to take the dash out and replace the front. Just tell me my theory is good to go even if it's not, because I'm about to just use it for target practice.
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Thursday, October 15th, 2020 AT 1:30 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Bypassing the front core will not effect the rear core at all. It will not increase flow either.

There is a special tool to release the heater hose clamps. I attached a picture of the core connections for you to view.

Roy
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Thursday, October 15th, 2020 AT 1:35 AM
Tiny
BRIAN JOHNSON2
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Thanks for the image, I should let you know I've been turning wrench's since just out of diapers. I have more tools then I can remember, it's like Christmas sometimes when I dig threw a tool box. :) I just haven't in all my years had a vehicle be as stubborn and mentally exhausting as this one. Go figure though it would be my truck instead of one I can just say I can't fix it and send it down the road. So I kind of need to figure it out.

So update: the rear heater core hoses get equally warm and only one hose for the front gets hot. I have disconnected the hoses at the T and it pissed out a good burst of air and then coolant. Still no heat, barely even warm. I jacked the front corner of it in the air until it was almost looking straight up at the sky and added a tall funnel and tried burping any air out, the only bubbles I saw were because I would give the top radiator hose a squeeze. I'm truly stumped, the popping sound almost like a couple old empty oil cans collided with a little bit of a hot running with all the keys going faintly with the popping. Almost like when I shut it off it sucks the water back from the core. And having no heat front or rear after replacing pretty much everything already, other then the cores it's all new stuff.
Oh, and this is my first Ford I own and it's really grown on me and dealing with 2 cores for heat is new for me also. I'll eventually figure it out if you or someone else doesn't beat me to it. I will definitely post what I find out when it's fixed. Thanks for your time and your ideas and all. I wish teleportation was a thing so people could just come and hear this thing and see all all the parts I've throw. At it. Or be able to teleport the truck to the top a steep mountain and start punching holes three it until it goes bang or something.
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Thursday, October 15th, 2020 AT 2:55 AM

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