Weird popping sound when turning the heater/AC settings, no heat

Good morning,

This sounds like the blend door actuator motor that is failing. The gears inside the blend door are stripped causing that noise.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-blend-door-motor

I attached a picture and the procedure for you.

Roy

REMOVAL



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1. If equipped, remove the floor duct panel.
Remove the two plastic push pins (one each side) and release the expander clip.



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2. Remove the RH instrument panel brace.
1. Remove the lower nut.
2. Remove the upper bolt.
3. Remove the brace.



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3. Remove the LH instrument panel lower nut and position brace aside.



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4. Remove the floor duct.
1. Remove the two screws (one each side).
2. Remove the floor duct.



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5. Remove the electronic actuator.
1. Disconnect the electronic actuator electrical connector.
2. Remove the three actuator screws.
3. Pull down to release the actuator shaft and remove the electronic actuator.

The blend door works fine and it's not what is making the noise believe. I've had my ear to everything.. I am waiting for the dealership to let me know when I can bring it in and they can deal with it because I give up. Thanks though.

You are welcome.

Always glad to help.

Roy

I think it's a air bubble trapped in my heater core and no matter my efforts I can't get it out. so I hope the dealership can and I don't have to tear out my dash and all that to fix or replace it.

Keep us updated.

Roy

Another possibility that lines up with your description is a broken blend door/plenum assembly, very common.

Do you know if the rear heater core will be affected if I bypass the front heater core? I am hoping by bypassing the front the extra little boost of coolant flow will kick the rear heat back on and I can live with that and maybe a heated seat cover until I have time to take the dash out and replace the front. Just tell me my theory is good to go even if it's not, because I'm about to just use it for target practice.

Bypassing the front core will not effect the rear core at all. It will not increase flow either.

There is a special tool to release the heater hose clamps. I attached a picture of the core connections for you to view.

Roy

Thanks for the image, I should let you know I've been turning wrench's since just out of diapers. I have more tools then I can remember, it's like Christmas sometimes when I dig threw a tool box.. :) I just haven't in all my years had a vehicle be as stubborn and mentally exhausting as this one. Go figure though it would be my truck instead of one I can just say I can't fix it and send it down the road. So I kind of need to figure it out..

So update: the rear heater core hoses get equally warm and only one hose for the front gets hot. I have disconnected the hoses at the T and it pissed out a good burst of air and then coolant. Still no heat, barely even warm. I jacked the front corner of it in the air until it was almost looking straight up at the sky and added a tall funnel and tried burping any air out, the only bubbles I saw were because I would give the top radiator hose a squeeze. I'm truly stumped, the popping sound almost like a couple old empty oil cans collided with a little bit of a hot running with all the keys going faintly with the popping. Almost like when I shut it off it sucks the water back from the core. And having no heat front or rear after replacing pretty much everything already, other then the cores it's all new stuff.
Oh, and this is my first Ford I own and it's really grown on me and dealing with 2 cores for heat is new for me also. I'll eventually figure it out if you or someone else doesn't beat me to it. I will definitely post what I find out when it's fixed. Thanks for your time and your ideas and all. I wish teleportation was a thing so people could just come and hear this thing and see all all the parts I've throw. At it. Or be able to teleport the truck to the top a steep mountain and start punching holes three it until it goes bang or something.