Vibration while driving around forty KM/h

The solution depends on where you feel the vibration. If it makes the steering wheel oscillate back and forth, that is due to a worn inner CV joint housing. The mileage you listed is too low to suspect that.

If the entire car body shudders, when this happens, hold the accelerator pedal and road speed perfectly steady, then lightly tap the brake pedal with your left foot. If the shudder stops for a couple of seconds, then resumes, the transmission has the wrong fluid in it. The torque converter's lock-up clutch is starting to engage for better fuel mileage, but instead of slowly grabbing smoothly, it is trying to lock solidly, then gets torn loose from engine torque and load, then tries to grab again. The correct transmission fluid has special additives that allow the clutch to slip gradually less and less until full lock is reached.

The additional clue is the lock-up clutch only engages when the engine is warmed up, you are above a minimum speed, and only in the highest gears. You will not feel the shudder if any of those conditions are not met.

This problem is quite common with CRV and the main culprit is the propeller shafts couplings. They get stiff thus causing vibration with minor acceleration around speed range indicated above.
This vehicle is AWD and the propeller shafts maybe removed for testing.
The transmission fluid is not the cause of this but the rear differential fluids can cause this though and at the mileage indicated, the fluids are due for replacement.

At this mileage it is advisable to have the rear differential fluids replaced. The fluids used are specific to this vehicle and not any type of differential fluid can be used. Wrong used of fluids can cause the symptoms described.

You are welcome.
You should consider having the propeller shaft joints checked as well, ensure they twist smoothly and are not too stiff.

Did this seem to fix the problem?

Good to hear, please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.

Cheers, Ken

Can I ask if they did both axles? Also lower ball joint can cause this as well as a tire starting to separate.

This guide can help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/popping-noise

Please run down this guide and report back. Can you please shoot a quick video with your phone so we can see what's going on? that would be great. You can upload it here with your response.

Also be aware that almost all half shafts replaced out-of-warranty are rebuilt units. Normally they're perfectly fine, but sometimes the people doing the inspections on the returned "cores" overlook a very elusive cause of shaking in the steering wheel under moderate acceleration, as you described. That is caused by worn spots inside the inner CV joint housing. As the three large rollers run in and out of those worn areas, they bind and refuse to move to allow the joint to swivel and change length as it goes around. By binding when under load, instead of changing length, the shaft pushes on the spindle, which is attached to the steering linkage. It's actually tugging and pushing on the steering linkage, so you feel it in the steering wheel.

One clue which can take some experience to observe, is with a binding CV joint, the steering wheel shimmy usually occurs three times per wheel revolution, while a broken tire belt causes one shimmy per wheel revolution. Also, you can see the steering wheel wobble from a broken tire belt at real low speeds, such as when driving through a parking lot. You won't feel anything from a worn inner CV joint unless the engine is under load, and that usually gets much worse when turning sharply at the same time, as in when accelerating out of a parking lot, onto the road.

The best clue is when the shaking starts right after a rebuilt half shaft is installed. The supplier won't argue about replacing the shaft with a different one.