Vibration at around 40 mph?

2003 HONDA CRV
291,000 MILES • 2.4L • 4 CYL • 4WD • AUTOMATIC
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JEFF HERMAN
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There is a front end shudder or vibration when holding steady speed. It feels like you're going over cobblestone. Around 2000 rpms. Let off the throttle or accelerate and it goes away. It only seems to last for 10 seconds or so if you don't change speed. It's almost like some component has reached a resonance frequency. I'll try rotating the tires, but it doesn't seem tire related. I'll also check the bearings as there does seem to be some noise. This seems to be a common issue with this vehicle. The boot on the driver's front CV is torn. There's no clicking from the axle so how do I check for a worn CV Axle? Have you heard of aftermarket CV Axles, remanufactured or new, causing this issue?
Oct 14, 2023 at 5:56 PM
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STRAILER
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Yes, worn CV axles will cause this problem and with the boot torn the grease has run out which makes the situation worse. Also, cheap CV axles can cause this problem as well, I would go with new units when doing a replacement. Here is a generic guide to help you step by step with instructions in the diagrams below to show you how on your car.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-cv-axle

You can check the movement of the CV joint once it has been removed to confirm the failure. Check out the images (below). Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem so we can see what's going on.
Oct 14, 2023 at 6:18 PM
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JEFF HERMAN
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What if I raise the left side high? Can I avoid losing the transmission fluid?
Oct 14, 2023 at 7:02 PM
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CARADIODOC
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Hi there you fine fellows. If I may add a comment of value, before you jump to the most likely suspect, go for a drive, and when the vibration occurs, immediately hold the accelerator pedal and road speed steady, then tap the brake pedal with your left foot. If the shudder stops for a couple of seconds, then resumes, the torque converter lock-up clutch is chattering. That happens on most car brands when the wrong transmission fluid is used. This happens somewhere between 30 to 45 mph, depending on model.

If the shudder doesn't stop momentarily, carry on with the normal diagnostics.
Oct 14, 2023 at 8:30 PM
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JEFF HERMAN
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Thanks, I will try that first. I'll bet this fluid may never have been changed or at least not for a long time. It's got 291k on it.
Oct 15, 2023 at 6:02 AM
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STRAILER
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Yep, it sounds like you need a transmission service.

Fluid Types


ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) .................... Use Honda ATF DW-1

(ATF-Z1 has been replaced with ATF DW-1, Honda Service News Nov 2010)

Capacities


A/T Fluid

Change .................... 3.1L (3.3 Qt)

Total .................... 7.2L (7.6 Qt)

Let us know what you find with the CV axles. Check out the images (below). Please let us know what happens.
Oct 15, 2023 at 10:59 AM
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JEFF HERMAN
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I tried tapping the brake and the vibration didn't go away. It happens when the speed is kept constant, but it doesn't happen seemingly over 50 mph. There is some noise from the left rear hub, but I don't think it's enough to cause this. In fact, that would be more apparent at higher speeds. I haven't had a chance to pull the axle or change transmission fluid. Since pulling the axle would cause fluid loss I might as well do both at the same time. Do you recommend any aftermarket axle brands? I don't want to go OEM as I bought this car for $500.
Oct 30, 2023 at 8:27 PM
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STRAILER
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I like to get new axles and not rebuilt. You can check Amazon or rockauto, let me know but it sounds like the CV axle is the problem.
Oct 31, 2023 at 9:25 AM
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CARADIODOC
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It's me again. After 400,000 miles, I had to replace the driver's side half shaft on my '88 Grand Caravan. Found out a brand new one from O'Reilley's was only $65.00. As it fit so many different years, it came with an anti-lock brake tone wheel on the outer CV joint. I had to tap that off because it interfered with the splash shield.

There is a different problem that can cause a harsh steering wheel oscillation when under load, but only up to a certain speed. It's worse when turning, as when leaving a parking lot and accelerating onto the road. It's caused by wear inside the inner CV joint housing. To identify that, you have to disassemble the joint to inspect the six highly-polished rolling surfaces. If you can feel the slightest irregularity, you really have a bad one. More commonly, you have to wipe the grease off those six surfaces, then shine a light in there and look at the reflections. This is the same as admiring a beautiful paint job on a classic car, but then you can see the waves in the reflections below the doors. The slight dip you can see in the CV joint is normally much too subtle to feel. For that reason, a lot of rebuilders don't catch them, then they reuse that housing on the rebuilt shaft. My fear is going through all the work of replacing the shaft, then I end up having to do it over. That won't happen with a new shaft.

For the record, I don't know why, but of the dozen or so I ran into at the dealership, only one was caused by the driver's side shaft. All the others were caused by the right shaft. As the shaft rotates and goes through length changes as the suspension moves up and down, the three large rollers inside the joint roll back and forth. They bind when trying to roll through the worn area, then rather than rolling freely, they cause the shaft to push and pull on the spindle, ball joint, and lower control arm. Being mounted on rubber bushings, the tugging action is transmitted to the outer tie rod end and the rest of the steering linkage. This is worse under load, and it's why it is felt in the steering wheel. By the time you reach 35 to 45 mph, the load is less so the rollers resume running back and forth freely. That oscillation will also stop the instant you let off the accelerator.

My entire reason for sharing this wondrous story is to validate the desirability of using a new half shaft. Cost is no longer a factor. A used shaft, or a rebuilt one, can lead to new or worse problems than what you're trying to solve.
Oct 31, 2023 at 3:46 PM