Vehicle wobbles

You're describing a number of issues that must be addressed. First of all, if the part you're describing is the anti-sway-bar link shown in the first photo, that is not involved with this problem. It is part of a system that simply reduces how much the body leans, or "rolls" during a high-speed turn. It doesn't affect tire wear.

The wobble sounds like it is due to a broken belt in the left front tire. Be careful when running your hands over that area. There will usually be the very sharp and painful ends of the wires of the steel belt poking out. Those really smart when they poke you.

Two of the three main alignment angles affect tire wear on the inside edge. "Toe" is the direction each wheel is steering. It affects both tires, even when just one of them is out of adjustment. "Camber" affects only that one tire, although camber can be out of specs on both wheels at the same time. That is the inward or outward tilt of the wheel as viewed from in front or in back of the vehicle. A wheel that's tipped in too much on top will wear that tire on the inside edge. Camber also affects a pull to one side. Besides being in specs for good tire wear, the two values must be nearly the same on both sides so their pulls offset each other.

When the tread is worn down to the cords, it is fairly common for that tire to develop a broken belt. In my experience, this has been especially common with Goodyear tires, even when the wear patterns are acceptable, but the tire is just worn out. The first step in identifying this is to observe the steering wheel oscillating back and forth as you drive very slowly through a parking lot. You may also see one front corner of the vehicle rise and fall once per tire revolution.

Next is to raise the front of the vehicle off the ground, support it with jack stands, then spin those wheels by hand while watching the tread. You'll see and / or feel the high spot in one area. When it's real bad, the tread will squirm left and right as it goes around.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/jack-up-and-lift-your-car-safely

There is a different type of broken belt that is much more elusive because at first glance, no hump or bulge is seen in the tread. It takes a trained eye to find those.

Ford has a long history of suspension designs that do not allow for alignment adjustments. Instead, you're expected to keep on buying tires. "Caster" and camber are not adjustable on your model as it comes from the factory. This involves two adjustments per front wheel. The first time any of them needs to be adjusted, bolts and assembly plates are to be removed and discarded, then special bolts installed that allow those adjustments to be made. If that has never been done yet, expect an extra charge for parts and labor. If that has been done previously, it is always possible one of the adjustments slipped, especially when hitting bumps or pot holes. If camber on the left front wheel is so much negative, meaning tipped in on top, as to cause the tire to wear on the inner edge, it should also be causing a hard pull to the right. Tires want to pull in the direction they're leaning.

There's one more thing your alignment specialist will look for, especially given the age of the vehicle. That is the chassis ride height. That sags with age as the springs become weaker over time. The front control arms go through arcs as the vehicle bounces up and down. Those arcs are designed to minimize tire wear, and they cause the wheels to tip in and out a little as they move up and down. Camber changes as the springs sag, but can usually be readjusted back into specs. The problem is while the numbers on the alignment computer can look perfect, that only applies to a vehicle that's standing still. The parts of the suspension system will go through wildly different geometric changes resulting in accelerated tire wear. A conscientious mechanic will want to correct ride height before trying to align the vehicle. That involves replacing coil springs or adjusting torsion bars. I've had a number of Dodge Dakotas with a hard pull one way, but after adjusting the torsion bars, did not need an alignment or any other service to solve that. Coil springs take some time to replace, but that is the proper repair to greatly increase tire life.

You can find more information in this article:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-car-tires-work

The second photo shows broken belts better than I can describe them. The blue arrow at the bottom is pointing a hump, or "tumor" that is the most common type of failure. That hump is in just one spot on the tire, not all the way around, and is almost always on the edge of thread. When the break in the belt is closer to the center of the tread, it tends to cause the squirming or snaking pattern shown in the upper right.

If you aren't comfortable checking this yourself, visit a tire and alignment shop. Many of them offer steering and suspension system inspections for free, and some do it for free if you have the work done by them. They will also look for worn parts that will prevent the alignment from holding. The people there are experts at finding the causes of pulling, tire wear, and unusual noises and vibrations.

Let me know what you find or how you'd like to proceed.