Vehicle Shuts off twice?

Yep, this can be many things causing this, but I need to ask you a few questions to get started. First, does the car go dead, meaning all electrical in the car stops? Next, does the engine sputter and then stall or does the engine stop instantly at the stop? Next do you have a check engine light on? And lastly how old is the battery in the car? We need to isolate the system that is failing. Here is a video to help run the codes so we can get started.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LBCpCWEFnTg&t

Please go over this guide and get back to us.

Hello Ken,

Thanks for your reply!

When the engine cuts off, it happens when I'm in stop-and-go traffic (under 20mph), and when I press the accelerator, the engine cuts off completely, no sputtering, but the dash lights are still on as if in the "acc" position when starting the vehicle.

No check engine lights on, although I did have one on previously that went out, the code was P2A01, rear O2 sensor I believe.

The battery is an 85 series with a manufacturing date of 5/23.

I had scheduled maintenance today, and my mechanic could not find anything with the code reader since no lights were on the dash. Oil change was done.

The video with Ryan was a great help by the way!

Thanks for your assistance!

Roosevelt.

Thank you, it sounds like the battery might be okay but you should have it load tested incase it is bad. the P2A01 - O2 Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Bank 1 Sensor 2 will no make the engine stall. So we are the base steps, when it does idle is the engine running smooth? if not you can have a vacuum leak, if not the problem can be the MAP or crankshaft position sensor, I have seen the ignition switch cause this as well along with the main and fuel pump relay. Lets start with the easy stuff, when you have driven the car for a while check the fuel pump and main relays to see if there are warm or hot. Here are the locations. Check out the images (below). Please let us know what happens.

Hello Ken,

The engine runs smoothly when idiling, the other items I will check and get back to you, thanks.

Roosevelt

Hello Ken,

The main relays are warm, not hot, same as the others in the compartment.

Thanks,

Roosevelt.

Yep, these is the toughest problem in car repair, with no codes we can go over the most popular items that will cause this, we will start with the easier stuff first, let stat with the crankshaft angle sensor which is by the oil filter and will no leave a code when it fails. Check out the images (below). Please let us know what happens.

Thanks Ken,

I 'll let you know.

Roosevelt.

Thank you have a good Sunday!

Hello Ken,

I took my vehicle to another shop for a diagnostic check, and all they said the problem was were fouled spark plugs and Fuel Injection was service needed.

They did the repairs and now the car is just fine!

Again, I'm surprised the shop I usually go to did not find this problem, it seemed to be rather simple. But anyway I'm happy the repair wasn't too costly, and the work was done in just a few hours.

Thanks again for your help Ken, it is greatly appreciated.

Roosevelt.

Glad you could get it fixed, thanks for letting us know. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.

Hello,

Well I thought it was fixed. But two days after the repair was done, sitting at a traffic light, the RPM'S went to zero and the car would only go about two miles an hour.


After letting it sit for a few minutes, it started again and ran fine
Mechanic did diagnostic with no real cause.

Where do I go from here? Crankshaft sensor?

Thanks, Roosevelt.

I would try servicing the throttle body first, please go over this guide which will show you how and I have included the location for you car in the images below.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service/

Check out the images (below). Please let us know what happens.

Ok Thanks!

Hello,

Actually, the vehicle did have a complete Fuel Injection service done which included the Throttle Body.

This was done on 4/25/26, I forgot to mention that.

Roosevelt.

Lets check for vacuum leaks, can you upload a short video of the engine having the problem? That would help. Also lets run the codes again.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LBCpCWEFnTg&t

Please go over this video as well to look for vacuum leaks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LRKWV4Are5c

Please go over these guides and get back to us.

I sure will, thanks for the help!

You are welcome, have a good Sunday!

Hello,

It's been a while since I've contacted you about the issue with my car, life gets busy!

My car went into what is called "limp mode." The check engine light came on, I had it checked and the codes were P161B, P2106, and P2110. I looked up the codes on the internet and the problem looks quite serious. After shutting off the vehicle for a while, it reset and runs normally for now.

Is there anything I can do to fix this or have a professional shop look at it?

I've also added some pictures to this email.

Thanks, Roosevelt

No worries, thanks for the images, I would go back and replace the relays and crankshaft sensor, like I say this kind of problem is tough to fix. Codes P2106 and P2110 are “reduced power/limited RPM” codes. In plain English, the computer saw something it didn’t like in the throttle control system, so it intentionally limited engine power to protect the vehicle. P161B can set when the ECM sees engine output/airflow not matching the expected throttle command. So the throttle body might be bad which can happen after a service. Lets inspect the MAP sensor as well, they can get clogged and cause this problem.

Thank for the info,

What "relays" need to be changed? I can get the Crankshaft & MAP sensors.

Again, thanks for the help.

These relays, check out the images (below). Please let me know what happens.

Thanks,

I'll check it out.

Thanks!

Good job, let me know what happens.