carburetor vacuum lines routing diagram needed

More images.

Looks like you have a vacuum diaphragm for the cruise control, so I am attaching the diagram below for the cruise control.

Also, I am attaching a clean copy of the diagram you have on the vehicle.

Basically, the way to figure these out is pick a line and follow it through the diagram in order to keep them straight. These things were a nightmare if you had some lines come off.

However, we need to just make sure the components have a connection to the vacuum source which is the intake. This is what those multiple connection points are used for. So instead of daisy chaining or having a lot of splice connectors, you just run a vacuum source to these multiple line connectors and then you can connect each component to it.

Hopefully that helps explain what that is.

As for the other picture of the part labeled 64249, that appears to be a check valve that would only allow vacuum to flow one way and is meant to hold vacuum.

Did you disconnect the lines for the transfer case as well?

Hi, thanks for your help!
I did not disconnect any of transfer case
Lines.
I am going to label any lines going forward.
I am going to look at these diagrams
and will reply soon.
Thanks again!

So, since this is an old vehicle, the vacuum line setup was probably changed, right?
By the way, on the vacuum diagram you provided, what is the square in the center of diagram with letters A,B,C,D,E,F and G?

That is the carburetor. Those are the different lines coming off of it going to various components.

Basically, they liked to use the carb to access intake manifold vacuum as it is an easy access point.

More than likely someone has altered this over the years so you may have to undo what some people did but the key thing is to make sure there are no open lines because that is an instant vacuum leak, and it is going to cause the engine to run poorly.

Cool! I'm sorry I did not get back right away. I am applying for a bunch of jobs!
Tomorrow - Monday, March 14, I will work on getting this Blazer going. Too cold today!
I did have the engine running before this vacuum line business.
Used starting fluid with the air filter box and hoses that are connected to cover, off.
I got engine idling but was hard to start and would not rev up too well. - maybe because of leaking vacuum lines and/or clogged fuel filter?
Replaced fuel filter but knocked off electric carburetor cover. Broke the tabs and pop rivets that hold cover to carburetor choke body.
Broke the section that pop rivet connects to at 2 o'clock location.
I have screws and new retainer tabs.

I would think this is a vacuum leak before a fuel filter issue. Both would create a lean condition which would result in getting it started with starter fluid.

So, I would stick with the vacuum leak issue and then we can figure out a fuel issue if needed.

What do you think of using zip ties to hold choke cover on?
I broke off 1 section of choke body where a screw with retainer would go.
1 other option is I can buy a used carburetor on eBay and take choke body off and replace
broken carburetor body?
Thanks again for your help!

Yeah, that is fine. Clearly, they may have to be addressed again in the future but that should work to hold it in place.

The idea of this cover is given you adjustability to the choke spring for the different seasons so if you need to adjust it, you will have to cut them and then reattach them.