Upper control arm bushings installation?

Tiny
FLOATR925
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  • 2001 DODGE DAKOTA
  • 3.9L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 200,000 MILES
I've managed to get out the old bushings w a 3-jaw puller (I changed it to a 2 jaw see pic) then a big C clamp on 2nd one. I pressed in the new one with C clamp on one side but can't get 2nd one in with that middle bar. My tool is closed at the other end of c clamp. What technique can I use or tool to press in the 2nd one? That middle bar sure blocks a lot!
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Monday, March 24th, 2025 AT 9:26 AM

16 Replies

Tiny
FLOATR925
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That's after pushing the rod hard with jaw puller it popped out. I put new one in with big C clamp rented for ball joint on 1 but can't get 2nd one seated due to bar. I got access to the AutoZone and O'Reilly tool rental also.
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Monday, March 24th, 2025 AT 9:30 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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Normally I use a press with a bushing on it to press it in while supporting the arm right around the bushing. Lacking those you could put the arm in a vice with the bushing in the hole and use the vice as a support and then use a heavy hammer and a chunk of pipe to drive the bushing in. Or use this as an excuse to buy a press.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/lower-control-arm-bushing-replacement
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Monday, March 24th, 2025 AT 3:56 PM
Tiny
FLOATR925
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I can try a hammer and the sleeve around the bushing. Is there a technique I can try with the nut on bolt end, and a big metal washer or that cup in the kit -
And an Air Ratchet or will that just push the rubber?
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Monday, March 24th, 2025 AT 5:17 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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You can't use the nut to pull it in as it will damage the rubber of the bushings. I use a press myself but there are folks who haven't got a press. The hammer method works but you need to support the arm to prevent damage.
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Monday, March 24th, 2025 AT 10:01 PM
Tiny
FLOATR925
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Actually, I was able to get it on by renting both small and medium 3 or 2 jaw pullers an used the bigger grip teeth off little one on that big one and a hole saw worked great as the cup with a couple big flat washers. One side is a hair closer on that metal bushing but both sides of that 1 bushing is in.I don't think it will factor. Which way does that middle bar swing -. With the curve edge facing out or in? See last pic arrow.
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Tuesday, March 25th, 2025 AT 1:54 PM
Tiny
FLOATR925
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I will feel the one on the other side. I think the curve faces in? Can I get away with using a hydraulic ratchet to tighten all 4 Nuti. I know it's very high torque, but I plan to get an alignment. What's the ft lbs?
Thanks
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Tuesday, March 25th, 2025 AT 2:21 PM
Tiny
FLOATR925
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This is odd. But the other top control arm pivot bar in middle is straight across no curves. Is that normal? I'm assuming it is since the straight one I ordered won't fit passenger. So which way does that bar curve? Were these made like this with one side having curved bar?
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Tuesday, March 25th, 2025 AT 2:33 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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The curve usually faces away from the spring but in this case service information doesn't say. The only thing I find is an image on the part section that shows the pivot turned 180 degrees from where you have it in the attached image.
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Tuesday, March 25th, 2025 AT 9:31 PM
Tiny
FLOATR925
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One side where the holes have a rough tic tack toe edge I think it goes on top.
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Wednesday, March 26th, 2025 AT 9:46 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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The serrated area should be the side that hits the mounts. They are what bites the steel to help hold them in the correct position after alignment. Sort of a crude lock washer. They unfortunately don't show that in service info though, this is all they show for both sides. However, the serrations go toward the mount not where the nut is seated.
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Wednesday, March 26th, 2025 AT 5:54 PM
Tiny
FLOATR925
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Okay, I have it-serrated edges, facing down and is on, correct? From looking at videos. Do I need to tighten all 4 to torque after car is on the ground or should all 4 be torqued with no pressure? I think the sides are 130ft and middle are 155ft? I tightened it to torque before putting load. I plan on an alignment and didn't mark the middle bolts either.
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Wednesday, March 26th, 2025 AT 6:51 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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Torque the mount bolts fully. They will need to loosen them to do the alignment, but you want them torqued for now. The bushing bolts for the arms and shocks are where you torque them on the ground. That way they are not under a constant twist, but flex as the suspension moves. Generally, for those I like to leave them loose enough that the bushing inside can move, then go to each corner and bounce that vehicle, then torque them.
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Wednesday, March 26th, 2025 AT 7:12 PM
Tiny
FLOATR925
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Got the sides as tight as I could with it down.1 side is too close to the exhaust flange. Will going as tight as I can with a long pipe work. It's super tight w thread lock.
Will my first drive be odd as in shaking or drifting to the side as driving to get alignment? I put the pivot bar bolts in the center point.
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Thursday, March 27th, 2025 AT 1:28 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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Should be okay to tighten it that way. It shouldn't shake but wander, odd steering and tire squeal are possible as the alignment can be way out. On caster, camber and toe. If the drive is more than a mile or so I'd probably opt to flatbed it, just to save the tires and any possible problems.
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Thursday, March 27th, 2025 AT 3:41 PM
Tiny
FLOATR925
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It was kind of loose before because I replaced a lot with all tie rods and sway bar links. I will go on my BK road and test run it. It's about 3 or 4 miles away. What causes a squeal noise?
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Thursday, March 27th, 2025 AT 7:52 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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It depends on how far out the alignment is, the tires can be pointing in multiple directions other than where they should and can scrub and wear fast if it's far enough out.
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Friday, March 28th, 2025 AT 1:43 AM

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