Trys to turn over but will not?

MONASHKA

MEMBER
2001 TOYOTA TUNDRA
4.7L
V8
4WD
AUTOMATIC
142,000 MILES

Ongoing issue no matter what I do it just gets worse. Started with front end shaking violently ended up changing out three coil packs shaking calmed down but not gone then it stalled while driving wouldn't start back up. Fuel pump was replaced and fuel filter. Stopped working new year's eve and this is how I got it to start opened up the gas cap and got in the bed and rocked the truck. Ran rough but made it 40 miles home. Started next day drove 50 miles to town it died and is still done. The code reader a week ago threw codes for random misfire different cylinders than the ones I replaced, and knock sensor. We fixed and cleared those codes.
Couple points. Starting fluid will get it turned over, but it sputters out. Gas gage suddenly is not working oh and Cadillac converters have been replaced with straight pipe. I'm so lost and stuck in town. Any advice or tips please.

1 Reply

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
109,885 POSTS

Hi,

What codes are you actually getting? Also, I don't know where you are located, but if it starts with starting fluid, that leads me to believe there is a fuel pressure issue or the engine coolant temp sensor is not working properly.

The coolant temp sensor signals the PCM information about the coolant temperature. If it says it is 40 below 0, the computer will dump fuel to make it run in those conditions. If it is actually 50 degrees, it will flood itself out. Also, the exact opposite can happen.

If you have a live data scan tool, before running the vehicle, see what the ECT is signaling the PCM. It should be very close to ambient temperatures.

Here are two links you may find of interest. Please understand, this is a theory based on your description.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-coolant-temperature-sensor-works

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/coolant-temperature-sensor-cts-replacement

Also, if you do have a live data scanner, let me know the short-term fuel trims when the engine is at operating temp.

I will watch for your reply. Also, I am assuming the fuel pressure is correct since the work on the system was done. If you haven't checked fuel pressure, here is a link that explains in general how to do it. Most parts stores will lend you the fuel pressure gauge needed for this test.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Take care and let me know what has been done so far, the codes, and anything else you can think of that may help me. One last question. Let me know if the vehicle has run normally since the O2 sensors are no longer connected and the catalytic converters were removed.

Joe