Truck not turning over?

Yep, this is a classic bad battery, I would remove it and take it to the auto parts store for testing. Here is a video that may help as well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6YRW8fyNudY

Here is a guide I would go over before doing the job

https://2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-car-battery/


Check out the images (below). Please let me know what happens.

I thought it was the battery as well. I purchased a new battery today and installed it.

I hear the solenoid click, but it is not starting. The dashboard lights up, but some sensors like the TPMS are still triggering an alert on the dashboard but not reading any of the tire sensors(not giving a reading).

Vehicle details: 4WD / AWD

I thought it was the classic scenario with the battery as well so I purchased a new battery today and installed it a few moments ago.

I hear the solenoid click, but it is not starting. The dashboard lights up, but some sensors like the TPMS are still triggering an alert on the dashboard but not reading any of the tire sensors(not giving a reading).

The location of the starter is deep within the engine bay above the suspension arm, so it difficult to get access to tap it awake.

Other than taking it into the shop what is the best way to attempt to change the starter, if it is the culprit?


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Previously
7 days ago, I was told the truck isn't starting so I tried three times to turn the keys in the ignition, on on the fourth attempt the truck started. it drove for three days as normal, yesterday i drive all over to go shopping at multiple places, when i am done shopping i hop in the truck, it doesn't turn on, and i do not hear the starter click, after attempting to diagnose it i call a tow and get it towed home. after i arrive home and it gets dropped off the truck starts up, so the next day the truck does the same thing and does not turn on, you can hear long click from the solenoid. So, my question... everytime i drive the truck the infocenter.. the navigation/gps/screen/radio keeps defaulting resetting every 3-4 hours and it triggered the TPMS sensor, it seems like the TPMS is displaced and is not reading the sensor , i don't know if the truck is going through a heat soak, senor congestion or just faulting. i do not know if all these faults are messing with the starter




Thought it was the classic scenario with the battery as well.

First have you made sure your battery is charging properly and all connections are good (terminals, wires etc) and voltage is correctly reading at least 12.7 volts?

Second question, have been able to jumpstart it?


The process to change the starter is below for reference as well if we determine it is needed.


1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection
2. Engine Mount Bracket - Left Side » Remove — Engine Mount 3. Bracket Replacement - Left Side
Starter Mounting Bolt (1) » Remove
4. Starter Mounting Bolt (3) » Remove
5. Reposition the starter (2) to access the electrical connections.
6. Electrical Connector (1) » Disconnect
7. Battery Positive Cable Nut (2) » Remove
8. Battery Positive Cable (3) » Remove
9. Starter (4) » Remove

Can you please upload a short video of what the truck is doing?

images to go with the starter removal process are below, should it be needed.

Here is a short video of the dash

The Infotainment center (nav/gps/sterio/backup-camera) in the center of the console itself every 3-4 hours when driving will default-crash/shutdown/restart then trigger the TPMS sensor.

this now seems like this may be a separate electrical issue aside from the starter.

I just tried to give it a jump start from my other vehicle, the solenoid clicks, but no start/crank.

Yep, I would confirm the starter being bad by checking for 12 volts at the trigger wire for the starter. This video can help. it will how you how to check the trigger wire.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6YRW8fyNudY

Let us know what happens.

thew issue was the battery, it was the negative battery terminal, the side bolt was wearing out! but it is a 90 degree battery connector that hangs from the side. I tried switching the negative connector from one i purchased at autozone/oriellys.. the connector will not fit / huge gap around the post. The cabling may not be long enough to stretch across the top since it was a side mounted connector.

is there any site that anyone knows that i can order or find a negative battery connector

Yep, that will cause the issue, you will need the negative battery cable replacement, not the terminal end. Nice find on the fix though.

okay i tried to crimp down the negative battery cables to an open bracket eyelet connector, i do not know if it is properly crimped. now i have connected the cabling to the battery then tried to start it up, its not giving enough power to even click the solenoid. I just hear the hum/buzz when it tries to start now. the voltage of the vehicle did drop between 12.1 and 12.0, this could be due from the crimp or the battery just sitting there slowly draining?

here is the pictures of the crimp

That kind of connector will need to be soldered. Does it work? if so I would not depend on it for long. Thanks for the images.

I believe it is not, but I just bumped into a website just a few moments ago that has the eyelet open barrel lug crimper for battery cables that I have been searching for within the last two weeks, with that I believe I can fix the crimping issue.

Well, with the negative connector being worn out and on its way to being replaced. I am hoping this will do the trick and fix all issues, but I still have a gut feeling it may be the starter as well.

A good question to ask.. What would be the proper amp size of a open barrel lug for the connector? i see sizes for connectors that are 100 to 500 amps.

I would do the 500 amp connector. Also, like I say, I would solder the connector on, you will need a butane torch to help. Check this out.

https://youtube.com/shorts/yevS2G3STEI?si=DD27V0zBLl0vbuHM