Transmission will not shift?

Tiny
KEVLIV1
  • MEMBER
  • 2009 FORD CROWN VICTORIA
  • 4.6L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 150,000 MILES
RPM's are high. It's just showing an ABS code. Does that have anything to do with it not shifting? It's an old police car.
Sunday, April 12th, 2020 AT 9:02 AM

19 Replies

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good morning,

The throttle position sensor is what controls the shifting on the transmission.

If it were an electronic issue, you would have a code set. If there is no code, most likely the issue is internal either in the valve body or the clutches.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/automatic-transmission-problems

How long since the fluid and filter has been changed?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-service-an-automatic-transmission

Roy
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Sunday, April 12th, 2020 AT 9:24 AM
Tiny
O8PANTHER
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
  • 2008 FORD CROWN VICTORIA
  • 4.6L
  • V8
  • RWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 126,000 MILES
I have a P71 police interceptor with 3.27 gears w/trac lock a 4.6 flex fuel engine, and the 4r75e transmission with external cooler. Car has 126,000 miles and 3900 engine idle hours. I have all of the maintenance records from the PD and the car was serviced every 2,000 with a transmission. Rebuild at 56,000 and retired to the motorpool. The owner who bought it from the mtpl at 76,000 had regular maintenance recorded in manual so the car was well maintained as far as service went and was used as a vehicle speed trap "ghost car" and drove like new when I bought it a month ago. There is its history now for my problem. The car makes a 1-2 whine or whir that increases in pitch with rpm and from what I hear stop once in second. It did this since I bought it and I was convinced it was the normal CVPI drive-train noise since the vehicle shifted fine with no problems. It still shifts fine in all gears when driving normal and even at 3/4 throttle. It does however like to hunt for in and out overdrive with overdrive on which I heard is normal for these trans. The problem that got me worried is that second tothird up-shift (WOT only) feels and sounds like it does not want to shift into third just revs higher until I get scared of blowing engine and let off the gas a bit then it shifts to third. Fluid it bright red and exactly at the max fluid level line when at op. Temp. No codes stored, pending or anything but I do not have an ABS reader and I did have a ABS light pop on once after I was working on car and bumped the ABS wheel speed sensor wire clip and must of ripped the wires out of the clip but was able to put them right back in and light went off but maybe there is a pending code that I cannot check with my scanner. I read on this site a ABS sensor can mess with transmission shifting. It is not a slip it feels like it never even tries and just revs up almost red-lines or maybe it tries to shift but its so weak I cannot feel it. I am going to drop the transmission pan and check the filter ASAP in case the filter/screen is clogged. I am hoping all that I needed is a new filter that could cause low pressure/fluid which could cause the whir/whine, and the wot second to third no shift. Right or am I dreaming? I am on a low budget and cant afford costly repairs that do not need repairing but I really cant afford a drive-train failure. I am very mechanically inclined and enjoy learning about and doing repairs myself instead of paying someone who may half a** a repair I paid good money for. I do all my repairs myself unless I need a lift or specialty equipment so I would really appreciate a detailed response to what you guys think it is and would bet your money on. The previous owner does have a record of changing transmission fluid, filyer, wire harness@101,000 miles. I am not sure if the popular j-mod I keep reading about in forums was ever performed by the previous owner or PD, but that should help transmission shifts not hurt them. By the way I have been reading the repair information and diagnostic help this sites experts give almost all day today and I am very impressed with the level of knowledge, intelligence, and detail they have to offer. It is unreal! I am so happy I found this site I called my brother and told him about it, haha. You guys are very informative and sound like you actually care about the people asking questions and go above and beyond with detail and information regarding their specific and general repairs questions. Thank you completely and sincerely in advance for any help given. You guys rock!
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 12:38 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Have a look at these tow guides scan for codes but it sounds like fluid going past seals at high pressure may be on it's way out or rebuild time.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/automatic-transmission-problems

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down these guides and report back.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 12:38 PM (Merged)
Tiny
O8PANTHER
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
Do you mind me asking the reasoning behind your educated conclusion or could any information from me help refine your diagnosis? I would gladly give any more detail if it might help. Even if it is getting under there and taking things apart. Do you recommend a TCM/, A/T transmission scanner or a tuner that would allow me to get the information or make adjustments that could help. I have wanted a diag/tuner anyways so if the transmission is toast it will not be for nothing. Since it has been rebuilt once and the engine mileage is too high to justify a transmission replacement unless a engine came with it. I would just drive until it dies and part it out. Thanks for the speedy response. Oh, one more thing, do you or anyone know how much a shop would charge for just a transmission diag scan?
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 12:38 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
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Hello,

It does sounds like the transmission filter is plugged which is not good becasue it means the transmission is coming apart which can happen even if the fluid is red. Next do a regular code scan on the car any transmission codes will show up there. Change the filter and it should buy you some time though.

Get back to us with any codes, we will be glad to walk you through it.

I am glad you like the site, we like it too :)

Please let us know what happens.

Best, Ken
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 12:38 PM (Merged)
Tiny
O8PANTHER
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I did a generic scan and no codes were saved pending nothing.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 12:38 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
What happens when a trans gets older and this thing is an ex police car so it was NOT driven gently even after a rebuild. Besides you don't know what they did to rebuild it, a complete seal replacement or just what was needed. When a trans get aged, the seals get hard and when you are at full throttle the fluid pressure is greater to apply the clutch pak. Hard seals do not seal well so when you let off gas the pressure drops enough so clutch will apply andnot push the fluid past the seal. The whine you hear may be a bearing or gear set going out in one of the planetary gears inside the trans. Which in time may lock up or explode depending on the situation. That is why I send you to a trans guy they have a lot more experience than us mechanics cause they do it all the time. I don't think the charge will be a lot if at all.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 12:38 PM (Merged)
Tiny
O8PANTHER
  • MEMBER
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I also read on many CVPI forums that a drivetrain noise exactly like mine makes is normal for these cars. Youtube had a video of itand its 100% the exact same noise mine is making and it makes it only in first just like mine. The manual says the vehicle has a special heavy duty drivetrain and will make a drivetrain noise and its normal pretty much. Not sure if its this sound they are talking in the manual. I can add a link ic you are not familiar with the sound I described in previous posting. The speedy responses are awesome, you guys are on top of your game 100%. Wow
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 12:38 PM (Merged)
Tiny
O8PANTHER
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Thanks. Yeah everything you said makes perfect sense. There must be conflicting ideas to what the manual meant by alot of people. I took my chance on the cop car since it drove exellent over bumps cornering and had the ample power of healthy engine evwn after cop use. The transmission shifted firm and on time like a truck trans hd should atleast then it did even at wot. The kick is I bougjt it a month ago and havent beat on it beside a 4 or 5 wot for maybe 5-10s each and never while in OD at over 40 mph. And all the sudden bam trans is screwed and I am too. Hopefully if its what you say it is it lasts ahile before it goes out completely. And yeah if its the filter than im really screwed cause then it shavings clogging it up because fluid looks like new fluid. Which is weird now that I think about it because the po has a record and told me when I bought it that the trans fluid filter were changed at 101000m and its at 126600 now with no discoloration or burning visable at the dip stick. It should be a little dark by now. Can a aftermarket inline filter is slightly clogged/faulty but cleaning the fluid still but the pressure is low because of it. Thanks guys I will check with atrans specialist
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 12:38 PM (Merged)
Tiny
O8PANTHER
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
It does have a black cylinder ribbed plastic filter on a hydraulic line which is either the trans. Or P.S line. I looked it up and ithas a magnet in it to catch metal and a filter for debri. Ford makes one and a aftermarket company not sure of name makes the same filter just rebranded it looks like. It was or still is a ford part but I see nothing about them being factory installed. The cop shop probably had it installed after the trans rebuild at 56,000m. Yeah 56,000 miles for a cvpi trans that maintained religiously is just insane it was obviously beat to hell at least when the it pd had it. The inline filter has a very very slight leak looks like its coming from the hose splice that being held by a adjustable hose clamp. I look under car every day and there are no fluid leaks on ground so it probably leaking while driving. Anyways I'll take it in either way to have them run the tcm codes and maybe see how much it will cost for seals if thats it. Sorry for the frantic posts that were confusing on what expert I was responding to. Thanks for the detailed responses for how you came to your diag. Via my excessive and at some points irrelevant fault descriptions. Ill post outcome tcm codes if any very soon. Thanks. You guys gave me hope that I may trust a shop again to do my my vehicle repairs after being charged for parts broken by service techs and charged for replacement and service being done by techs that know should never even touch a wrench. Faith restored by real mechanics. They are out there god bless
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 12:38 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
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Good to hear, please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.

Best, Ken
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 12:38 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SAVANNAHSULWER
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
  • 2005 FORD CROWN VICTORIA
  • 4.6L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 140,000 MILES
It started with loosing 4th and feeling as though in neutral so I turned off overdrive and was able to catch the lower gears and limp home going 40-50 without it reving to much. But whenever overdrive is on it goes into neutral over 25 mph unless O/D is off I can go faster but I know it can't be good. Just bought this car. 2 for 2 with both vehicles we bought hoping for a vehicle with a little bigger engine that could make it up the mountains with ease. Fluid smells spent. I want to change it but don't know if its pointless and I'll need to change the transmission. 14 qts is a lot of wasted mercon transfluid plus filter, but if it could fix it that would be great because I know transmissions shift with pressure changes or something and with spent fluid that may be it. I'm thinking the upper solenoids could be bad or gummed up but I don't know anything about transmissions (yet) thanks
We're stuck at my moms until we can get one of these fixed and can't afford a shop but have enough tools to drop and take the transmission apart or swap, but figure it could be something simpler. Thanks thanks thanks
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 12:38 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
It's probably the pressure regulator solenoid here is the instructions on how to change it ti the diagrams below. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 12:38 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SAVANNAHSULWER
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
When they say "rebuild" what does that entail? I think its electrical because when I turn off Over Drive it allows me to drive over 25 verse with overdrive on it goes into neutral at 25. Most vehicles after 1999 have electronic controlled shift solenoids that are easier to change than the mechanical features of before and its likely the solenoid which I changed and it worked perfect, thanks for your help.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 12:38 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
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Nice work, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 12:38 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LILCEL2007
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • FORD CROWN VICTORIA
Ok I have a 1999 ford crown victoria police interceptor V8 with 115562 miles on it and when I drive it it shifts into 1st and 2nd gear with ez but it just wont shift into 3rd gear im trying to find out whats wrong because the shop wants 2 take the cars transmission apart 2 look for the problem and they also said it could need a trans cable adjustment or it could be a sensor can u guys help me out please because im just about to sell this car thank you
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 12:38 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,494 POSTS
Hello,

There are three fuses that run the system I would check those first. Here is a guide and the transmission wiring diagrams so you can see which ones to check.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

If they are okay the problem should be a shift solenoid or the pressure control solenoid.

You will need to drop the pan to change them out here is a guide that will show you what you are in for when doing the job.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-service-an-automatic-transmission

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 12:38 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LIZZYP63
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1989 FORD CROWN VICTORIA
  • 5.0L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 67,000 MILES
Transmission will not shift out of first gear. Will not go over thirty mph.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 12:38 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good evening.

There is a rod on the throttle body that controls the valve in the valve body for shifting. Make sure it is connected and not laying down on the manifold.

Roy

5. OL HO and SEFI Engines.

The throttle valve (TV) control cable system consists of a cable attaching grommet on the throttle body throttle lever, the TV control cable Cassembly, the external TV control lever on the transmission, and the cable mounting brackets at the throttle body and transmission.

ImageZoom/Print

As the throttle is moved from idle to wide-open throttle (WOT), the TV control cable pulls the transmission TV control lever from idle to WOT. Return of the cable and transmission lever toward idle is accomplished by the return spring on the transmission end of the cable assembly. This spring and the end of the cable assembly is protected by a flexible rubber boot. The transmission external TV control lever actuates the Internal TV control mechanism which regulates the TV control pressure. The travel of this lever is controlled by stops internal to the transmission.

The TV control cable is set and locked to its proper length during initial assembly when the grooved pin on the upper end of the cable assembly is inserted in the grommet on the throttle body lever. To release the cable locking mechanism, it is necessary to pry the grooved pin out of the grommet and push out the white locking pin. The take-up spring at the end of the cable assembly tensions the cable and takes up the slack in the system. When the grooved pin is reinserted in the grommet, the white locking tab is pushed in, automatically locking the cable to its correct length. When the cable is locked, the take up spring plays no part in the operation of the system.

Under normal circumstances, it should not be necessary to alter or readjust the initial setting of the TV control cable. Situations requiring readjustment of the TV control cable include maintenance involving the removal and/or replacement of the throttle body, transmission, TV cable assembly or installing a new main control assembly. Readjustment of the TV control cable would also be i.'ecessary to correct cbmplaints of poot transmission shitt quallity that would have been caused by a misadjustment of the TV control cable.

When the TV control cable is prperly set, the transmission Tv control lever will be at its internal idle stop (lever to rear as far as it will travel) when the throttle lever is at its idle stop.

Idle Speed Affect on TV Control Cable

The 5.0L and 5. OL HO (302 CID) SEFI engine uses an Air Bypass (ISC) that does not affect throttle position. Therefore, idle automatic setting does not affect TV cable adjustment.

TV Cable Linkage Adjustment Self-Locking (Core Wire Adjustment)

1. Remove air cleaner cover and inlet tube from throttle body inlet to access throttle lever and cable assembly.

2. Using a wide blade screwdriver, pry grooved pin on cable assembly out of grommet on throttle body lever.

ImageZoom/Print

3. Using a small screwdriver, push out white locking tab.

ImageZoom/Print

4. Check to ensureplastic block with pin and tab slides freely on notched rod. If it does not slide freely, the white tab may not be pushed out far enough.

ImageZoom/Print

5. While holding throttle lever firmly against its idle stop, push grooved pin into grommet on throttle lever as far as it will go.

NOTE: While pushing pin into grdmmet, make sure you do not move throttle lever away from idle stop.

6. Install air cleaner cover and airinlet tube.

ImageZoom/Print

Linkage Adjustment Using Throttle Valve TV Control Pressure

Core Wire Adjustment

NOTE: This procedure requires the use of TV Pressure Gauge with Hose (0-60 psi) T86L-70002-A or equivalent. The results of the adjustment procedure depends on the accuracy of the pressure gauge.

A pressure gauge should be checked periodically (approximately once a year) or when the following occurs:

1. The needle will not return to 0 kPa (0 psi) under no pressure.

2. The needle goes past 0 kPa (0 psi) (negative side) under no pressure.

3. Bumping or dropping a pressure gauge.

Adjustment and/or Check

1. Attach TV Pressure Gauge with Hose (0-60 psi) T86L-70002-A or equivalent, to the TV port on the transmission.

NOTE: If service tool is not available, in order to avoid the exhaust system, obtain the following material and assemble as shown:

One 1/8-inch NPT female Hansen fitting
One 1/8-inch NPT male Hansen fitting
One 1/4-inch NPT 90 degree elbow connector
One high-pressure hose fitting

The pressure gauge should have 2.4m (8 feet) of flexible hose to make the gauge accessible while operating the engine.

2. Remove the air cleaner cover and inlet tube from the throttle body inlet for easier access to throttle lever.

3. Insert tapered end of the tool between the crimped slug on the end of cable and plastic notched rod, also on end of cable assembly. Push in Cable TV Gauge Tool T86L-70332-A, or equivalent forcing the crimped slug away from the plastic rod. Ensure gauge block is pushed in as far as it will go.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 12:38 PM (Merged)

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