Transmission will not stay in overdrive

Tiny
RODSQUAD
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 DODGE DAKOTA
  • 5.2L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 290,000 MILES
If I unplug the throttle position sensor the transmission shifts into overdrive but if I plug the throttle position sensor in, I must turn 3,500 RPMs and remove my foot from the throttle pedal. It will then go into overdrive but the moment I give it any throttle it comes out of overdrive and will not go back in unless I repeat the same cycle.
Wednesday, February 16th, 2022 AT 11:49 AM

6 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,755 POSTS
Hi,

Have you checked to see if there are diagnostic trouble codes? I ask because this could be several different things. For example, the OD clutch pack could be worn, the overdrive clutch bleed orifice could be plugged, an issue with the PCM, and so on.

Try to retrieve codes first. Here is a link that shows how it's done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/retrieve-trouble-codes-for-chrysler-dodge-plymouth-odb1-1995-and-earlier-car-mini-van-and-light-trucks

Also, let me know which transmission you have. It should be the 46RH, but I just want to confirm.

Let me know.

Joe
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Wednesday, February 16th, 2022 AT 6:41 PM
Tiny
RODSQUAD
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Thank you for your help with this. I got 2 codes, 24 and 37. The transmission is a 46RH. I checked the throttle position sensor plug with a voltmeter a while back and I have voltage on my signal wire without the engine being started, this may not mean anything but, I have been running it with the TPS unplugged but it just doesn't run right, any help will be appreciated.
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Thursday, February 17th, 2022 AT 9:34 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,755 POSTS
Hi,

The two are likely tied together. Code 24 indicates an open or high voltage to the TPS Partial throttle. Code 37 is related to the TCC unlock solenoid an open or shorted condition is detected in the torque converter part throttle unlock solenoid circuit which ties into either a transmission temp sensor having high or low voltage.

I need to start with the TPS. Why is it disconnected? Also, I need you to check the temperature sensor on the trans to make sure the wiring to it isn't damaged, the connector is clean and tight, and there is no damage to the sensor.

I attached a pic of the sensor below for you to see. Also, since the TPS is disconnected, it may be causing an issue within the PCM preventing proper voltages to the temperature sensor and the TCC solenoid.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

See pic below.
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Friday, February 18th, 2022 AT 2:34 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,873 POSTS
Hi guys. Please allow me to stick my nose in here with a couple of comments. There must be 5.0 volts on one wire to the TPS. The ground wire is tied in with those from some other sensors and will have 0.2 volts on it. That's because that circuit goes to ground through the computer so it can be monitored. The 0.2 volts is dropped across that circuitry. It's always best to take sensor voltages with them plugged in, by back-probing next to each wire through the rubber seals. When you do that, you must find roughly 0.5 (closed throttle), to 4.5 volts, (wide-open-throttle) on the signal wire. Those values are for training and explanation purposes. In actual practice, no two sensors are alike. You may find.72 to 4.3 volts, for example. What's important is it can never reach 0.0 or 5.0 volts. Anything outside the 0.5 to 4.5 volt range is what gets detected as a defect and sets fault codes.

The problem is with the signal wire. If there's a break in that wire or inside the sensor, the voltage seen by the computer can "float" to some random value due to being interconnected with all the other circuitry inside the computer. That circuitry has no effect when everything is working properly. It's when there's a defect in that signal circuit that if that random voltage stays within 0.5 to 4.5 volts, the computer will accept it and try to run on it.

When a defect exists in that signal circuit, the computer has an internal "pull-up" resistor between the signal terminal and the internal 5.0 volt supply. That resistor is so big electrically that normally it also has no effect on circuit operation. When you unplug the sensor to take voltage readings, you create a break in the circuit. That's when the pull-up resistor does its thing and puts 5.0 volts on the signal wire.

Various sensor circuits in other models, imports in particular, use "pull-down" resistors for the same purpose. Their operation causes less confusion, but they're doing the same thing. Those are tied between the signal wire and ground. As with the pull-up resistors, when a defect occurs, they place their 5.0 volts or 0.0 volts on the signal wire to force a defective condition to be detected.

You can verify this by back-probing the signal wire and watching the voltage change from 5.0 volts to around 0.5 volts when you plug it in.

My second comment of value has to do with running an engine with a sensor unplugged. Often a defect in the sensor or in the circuit will cause one to report the wrong signal voltage, but one that is still within the acceptable range. This is where the computer will accept it and try to run the engine on that wrong value. When you unplug the sensor, that forces the defective condition to be detected. The computer sets the appropriate diagnostic fault code. It also turns on the Check Engine light if the defect could have an adverse effect on emissions. Third, since it knows it can't rely on the readings from that sensor, it "injects" an approximate value to run the engine on. For example, in is case, if it knows it can't use the TPS readings, it knows the throttle must be nearly closed since rpm is low. The hope is the injected value is closer to correct than the voltage coming from the defective circuit. That's why you sometimes hear someone say their engine runs better with something unplugged.

On Chrysler products, the MAP sensor has the biggest say in fuel metering calculations. The TPS actually has the least influence of all the sensors.
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Friday, February 18th, 2022 AT 2:50 PM
Tiny
RODSQUAD
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Randy B, thank you for the information, it will be very useful when I test my sensor and now, I know the proper way to. Perform the sensor test, I don't like running a sensor unplugged like this but that was the only way I could get it to hold overdrive.
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Friday, February 18th, 2022 AT 9:47 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,755 POSTS
Hi,

Let us know, and Randy, that was an excellent explanation! I enjoyed reading it myself.

Take care and let us know what you find.

Joe
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Saturday, February 19th, 2022 AT 12:07 PM

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