Transmission Range Sensor connector wiring issue?

Sure, here is the connector view so you can see which wires go where for the gear range sensor (neutral safety switch). Check out the images (below). Let us know if you need anything else.

This is awesome, thank you so much!
I do have one, now it seems weird, question: would you have any idea why my TRS (NSS) would have had a 7th wire in addition to the 6 in the provided image? I've attached the poor, photo of the connectors original state, I. E. before I began any cleanup.
As it stands, I guess I'll just attempt to replicate the diagram, but it does leave me a bit concerned (as with most everything on this infernal work vehicle).

Thank you very much again!

This is awesome, thank you so much!
I do have one, now seems weird, question: would you have any idea why my TRS (NSS) would have had a 7th wire in addition to the 6 in the provided image? I've attached the, poor, photo of the connectors original state, I. E. before I began any cleanup.
As it stands I guess I'll just attempt to replicate the diagram but it does leave me a bit concerned (as with most everything on this infernal work vehicle).

Thank you very much again!

Sorry one additional thought, now that I'm physically looking at connector: all of the "not used" seats have a solid plastic barrier preventing, I assume, moisture, or incorrect placement from getting through... It's definitely possible the previous Dr. Frankenstein type of mechanic / owner punctured it while adding a superfluous? 7th wire but it sure adds to my confused concern.

Thanks again by the way!

Sheesh I apologize but if it helps, the 7th wire in question is white and black and at least does seem to originate from the same branch of the feeder harness.

Yep, the wht/blk wire goes the PCM, here are all of the wires to the gear range sensor so you can see how the system works. Check out the images (below). Please let us know what happens.

I really appreciate your reply and time, but now I'm a bit more confused; I actually did see that diagram before but you'll note that the first diagram you sent me had only 6 wires coming to connector, and I have all 6 of those colors / open pin seats (with no white / black wire indicated) but then the bottom diagram seems to show only 5 wires, now including the w/b wire and seemingly with just 4 of the others, but in a different order?

Okay, I looked up the gear range sensor for a 2003 and it has 7 wires, please check this one out.

Ahhh, thank you so much! That makes all the sense now, I truly appreciate your assistance, and patience! I'll confirm the fix tomorrow but I'm certain we're in business now.

That is good to hear, let us know if you need anything else.

Hello! Well, this issue continues to be a thorn in my side (I've just been so busy working I've had no choice but to use a wasteful rental).
Anyhow to date I ended up buying a brand-new connector harness, and ultimately a new TRS, all installed extremely carefully and to spec (including numerous shifter, alignment adjustments until exactly perfect) yet the dreaded flashing OD/limp mode continue.

I just ran through a multimeter diagnostic I found (see attached) and see what I believe to be the issue:
While in park the White/Black wire, TR4, reads 9volts instead of 0 as the chart indicates it should. I followed back and saw no signs of even a chance of any further wire frays or the sort, as I'm mediocre at best when it comes to electrical, I hoped you might have some semi specific steps for me to figure out why the errant voltage.

I should add, one main reason I'm confident of the install is dead center shifter alignment, starts only in P or N, and reverse lights illuminating only in R.

Please let me know if I failed to provide any necessary info; and thank you in advance, and retrospectively in fact, for all of your help, it is super appreciated!

Is reverse is still in the park spot?

No. It never was (though I did read a similar post where that was the case), in my case the worst the new install ever seemed had all notches about half a letter shifted to the right of each dead center respectively.
This has been rectified with some slight tweaks to the shifter cable along with the Transmission Range Sensor. Now all are pointed perfectly dead center when shifting up or down the tree.

Good job. Yep, white/black wire, TR4 should read 0 volts, did you test it with the gear range sensor plugged in or unplugged? This circuit is a simple reference connection. I would double check to see if you are connected to the correct wire.

I have had ongoing issues, most mechanical, but now have solved down to some frayed electrical harness/breakouts. Specifically this splice junction sad totally melted to unrecognizable mess so after cutting out and attempting to out back together I'm left with a super elementary I'm sure question: it reads to me like the splice point is just 3 like wires in, 3 like wires out. I stupidly, again I'm sure, thought we'll how is that different than just going 1 to 1 right through (electrical is by far my weakest as you can tell). SO long question still long, how should I be going about, propey recreating what's expected here? All of my searching just keeps showing splicing 2 into 1 but that can't be the answer as I'm 3:3.
Thank you so much!

Sorry the final 2 are the, same, spot in question, edit wouldn't prophet allow deleting an image

Those are a splice point where all of the wires are connected because they share the same 12 volt power feed. So all of them need to be connected into one connection. In older vehicles they did this by crimping a ring terminal to each wire, then those were riveted into a star or similar, then painted with sealer and wrapped in tape. In modern cars they take a crimp style butt connector, stuff the wires in from both sides and crimp them in. When I make a crimp I do it similar to the modern OEM. In this case I would take three wires to each side. Slide a piece of self sealing heat shrink up one side, then crimp on an un-insulated butt connector. Crimp it tight. Then insert the three from the other side and crimp it. Now a coat of liquid tape just to fill the voids. Let that air dry long enough that the heat shrink will slide over it. Then heat up the tubing until it shrinks and the adhesive sealer squeezes out. Let it cool. Then if I'm building a harness it gets wrapped with a cloth based tape. If it's in a vehicle it gets scotch 33 wrapped and put back into the loom.
Similar to the way you see the crimps done in these vids.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LHcKVwJ3Ees
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RkfMiqmJgaI