Transmission pan bolt torque?

105 inch pounds
Or"
8.75 ft pounds
Or"
12 newton meters
Titighten them half way" first cris cross patern
Then go back around and tighten
Then the rest of the way ti the final spec...no more no less right on target..
Good luck hope this helps.

Is it ok to just use rtv and no gasket? The original one only have rtv

Yeah id use either the regular ultra Grey or ultra Grey gearbox sealant ..permatex its great stuff in fact in my opinion just use it on everything its the best

Just a side note

Always do what the manufacturer recommends ..so if they suggest that you use a gasket then yes" I'd use the gasket. Amd always clean the surface spotless before re installing the part best of luck"

ugh, leaking again. I used the black rtv and left it more than an hour with hand tightened bolts, then tightened it. ugh, I ordered another pan and will use ultra grit this time

Hi guys. Let me share my experience with these products. This goes back to the days of the A604 four-speed transmissions. While working at a very nice family-owned Chrysler dealership, they had Chrysler's black and gray silicone gasket sealers, (RTV). The black stuff cures more rubbery and is easier to remove next time, but it absolutely will not bond or seal through any film of oil. The gray stuff gets harder when cured, and is harder to scrape off next time. It WILL seal through a light coating of oil residue. You can add fluids right away with either product without waiting for them to cure. I'm sure other manufacturers have similar products under their own names, but these are the two I'm familiar with and use.

We all had our own favorite methods of sealing transmission pans on A604s. There's a passage that fluid runs out of right in the middle of the lower / rear edge of the transmission. No matter how many times you clean that off, fluid will keep running out of there for a good 24 hours. A coworker would clean the pan with Brake Parts Cleaner, then place the bead of sealer on it. He stuffed a rag in that passage, then washed the pan surface on the transmission. When ready, he had another coworker yank the rag out, giving him a few seconds to slap the pan on before fluid resumed running out.

My method was to reach a finger up into that passage, then splash around to empty the little cavity where fluid collected, then I'd wash the pan surface and dry it. By emptying that cavity, it gave me about ten seconds before fluid filled it up then started running out again. That method insured the surfaces were clean, but I still preferred to use the gray sealer.

On one occasion, I had the brilliant idea to use a rubber-tipped air nozzle to blow the fluid out of that cavity. I took a shower in transmission fluid, and it created a fog all through the shop, bad enough that a few people wandered around to see what was causing it. (I don't recommend using compressed air)!

As for how tight, I ran the bolts in with a small 3/8" butterfly impact. Even with being careful, the bolts got tighter than by using a 1/4" hand ratchet and socket. On the rare occasion a bolt hole stripped out, the fix was to stick a piece of copper house wiring into the hole, then run the bolt in alongside it. Years later, I required my students to learn how to install a Heli-coil insert, but on the job, you don't have time to remove the pan, clean everything up again, install the insert, then hope a different hole doesn't strip out. The copper wire trick works great, saves a lot of time, and the wire usually stays in place the next time the pan is reinstalled.

Ya I see the passage you talking about, there is a hole on the rear end of that pan in the transmission. I am going to let it drip as long as it needs to before installing the pan this time. But just to confirm again it is 105 inch pounds
Or"
8.75 ft pounds
Or"
12 newton meters

Yes 12 nm..
And the oem recomended gasket or"is best...or" in a pinch the permatex ultra Grey sealant (silicone rtv.) Not the other Grey stuff that won't work

Ya, this is what I got

"Yep you got it " thats the good stuff problem is you gotta completely clean all the old stuff any oil or old gasket material and whatever else off all the surfaces dont get any old scrapings or anything in the pan wash it out thoroughly before applying it for the maximum sealing effect also make sure the bead thickness is consistent all the way around the pan good luck take your time hope this helps

there is no old gasket, all of the silicone came down with the old pan, so that's good.

If it kinda just fell off or peeled off kinda easily that means you didnt have it clean enough when you applied sealant to it ..get it as clean as possible you can use carb cleaner on both surfaces that way when you put the sealer on it will stay and won't leak.
if the surface gets contaminated while your working by accident just clean it again till youre satisfied that its spotless and has absolutely no dirt or oil on it just clean and dry as possible.. then apply the sealant youl be good to go good luck .

would you put a gasket plus the rtv? also if just using rtv would you leave it 10 minutes then install it hand tight then torque it after an hour or leave it 24 hr then torque?

Yes as I meantiined previously Id use a gasket by it self most times thats usually what's needed ..as per the manufacturer recommendations

Geez, it leaked again. This is not my first time doing pans, gaskets, silicone. bought 2 pans so far from amazon, first time used the gasket but it busted, second time use the silicone above, left it hand tight for an hour then tightened it exactly to 12 NM. Left it for over 24 hours. Installed and filled. Today I am looking under it and there again a spot of fluid. Not sure what the issue is. Thing is, it had zero leaks from anywhere, was super dry before doing this.

Yep i looked it up for you as to the factory recomendation they do recomend using sealant say it comes that way from the factory you doing it correctly except what's missing
If you cleand it thoroughly both sides pan and trnsmission side spotless it shouldn't leak or is it possible there wasnt enough sealant used or maybe to much or did you want before torquing the bolts maybe try just putting the sealant on wet and just torqueing the bolts all the way one time and let it cure over night ...goid luck hope this helps

I ordered mopar gasket will try it and see

Yeah a gasket is prety forgiving of any inperfecti8ng in the surfaces they work really well ine those situations for sure ..probably worth a try let plus know how it turns out good luck

I mean a mopar silicone. Many people state that was the only solution. Also, some claimed that after draining the fluid they jacked up the rear and dropped the front so more fluid can drain from that dang hole in back of the transmission

That hole in the back you mentioned is where I used to splash my finger on the sides to empty the little pockets where fluid collects. That can give you five to ten seconds before fluid resumes running out. Raising the rear isn't going to empty those pockets.

Have the sealant on the pan and ready to go. Spray down the transmission with brake parts cleaner. Carburetor cleaner will work too, but it is designed to evaporate faster, as in before it has a chance to do its thing. Splash your finger, wash that area of the transmission, wipe the cleaner off to dry it as quickly as possible, then slap the pan on. Have two or three bolts already in your hand. If you have a choice, use Chrysler's gray sealant. While it's not intended to be used on oily surfaces, it can bond through a light film of oil, like what would come off your fingerprints after doing an oil change. Run the bolts tight right away. The sealant will squish out along with any fluid that has started running down again. You can fill the fluid right away. No need to wait for the sealant to cure.

I wouldn't wait an hour to torque the bolts. If the pan moves tighter to the transmission, that might break the bond the sealant has started to form.

Two more things you might consider. First, with the transmission cleaned, look closely at the bolt holes to see if the housing is cracked around one of them. Especially if you can trace the leaking fluid as coming from up along the side of the pan. Second, it is not uncommon to run the bolts out and find a knob of old sealant on the ends of some of them. That suggests too much sealant was used on the previous service. If that glob is stuck in the hole, you can think the bolt is tightened to specs, but it hasn't actually clamped the pan tight. Try running the bolts in first without the pan and see if any of the heads are sticking up too high.

I bought this here. Th pan and bolts were new, and since the old pan had the manufacturer silicone on it the transmission side was clean, everything came down with the old pan, just strange, It always leaks from the same side, side where the hole is. I made sure to let it drip 3 days and side of transmission was clean, and this sealant was better than the gasket for sure. I will see what happens

Yep, that sealer should work well.