Transmission Limp Mode

Tiny
KGBS
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 79,000 MILES
Hi there, I have a low mileage Sebring which has now been in transmission limp mode for over a year. Numerous efforts have been made to diagnose the issue with no success.

Please assist.

I will describe every step we have gone through when you reply so we can possibly put together some logic for it all.

Thank you.
Tuesday, September 28th, 2021 AT 8:30 AM

13 Replies

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
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Good morning,

Are there any codes set for the transmission?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/automatic-transmission-problems

I attached a wiring diagram for you as well of the transmission system

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

Roy
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Tuesday, September 28th, 2021 AT 9:37 AM
Tiny
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Roy,

Thank you for getting back to me. I'm writing you from Sofia, Bulgaria, pretty much halfway around the world where we don't have shops for American cars.

Here's the chronology of events:

1. Car went into limp mode (stuck in 2nd gear) summer of 2020. It would go in and out of it occasionally but most of the time it would stay in limp mode. Only visible issue was that at times, mostly when the car was cold, all positions of the lever were marked active on the dash (squares around every letter) so we started by replacing the neutral position switch inside the transmission. That did not resolve the issue.

2. We took the car to at least three other shops one of which specializing in automatic transmissions. Relevant DTC was P0700 (the non-specific one) so all shops backed out saying they didn't know how to approach the issue and that it could be anything.

3. I spent months reading forums and found a small number that said these transmissions are extremely sensitive on the exact transmission fluid they're designed for which is Mopar ATF+4. We went out on a limb and did a service change air-forcing as much as possible of the current fluid out to finally change around 60% of the whole quantity. ATF had never been changed prior on this vehicle. This fixed the problem. Car drove fine for about 300 miles for a month. Then limp mode again.

4. We figured the remaining old fluid could cause the issue to come back so we did a second service change (a full flush would cost a fortune compared to the price of the car), so we expected to at least have a temporary result like the first time. No luck. Car never even went out of limp mode this time.

5. We took a wild guess that maybe while shuffling stuff around we caused an electrical line to go on and off. We looked into electrical and found out solenoids could be the issue as they're connected to the TCM (integrated with the PCM.) We replaced the solenoid block. The problem persisted.

6. On yet another testing session I personally wiggled around the solenoid connector. This fixed the problem. For another couple of days. Then out of nowhere limp mode again. This led us to the wiring harness. We took it all out and tested each wire with a stress test, pulling, twisting and pushing. All were fine. Not a twitch on the voltmeter. And no further wiggling of wires resolved anything.

7. We found there was a broken safety clip on the second big connector there, the one for the neutral position switch. We tightened the female pins to secure contact. Nothing changed.

8. We took the car in for another read and it no longer brought back the P0700. Only DTC that could be relevant is now P0211 and as much as I read about it, I don't see how it can be related to the transmission limp mode.

This is about where we are. I'm doing this with my dad (78) as this is his car and now they can barely go shopping in it.

I'd appreciate it tremendously if you could help me make some sense of all this and point me to what I could be missing. The issue has been so random during the past year that I'm out of ideas already. I'm thinking if the mechanic connected the neutral safety switch inside correctly. How could he go wrong though?

Thank you for your time.

Krassimir Stoichev
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Tuesday, September 28th, 2021 AT 1:11 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

I noticed it has been a couple of days since we made contact with you. Has any progress been made?

Also, the code, P0211, isn't relevant for this model and year vehicle. Is it possible you accidentally wrote the wrong number? This code, on other models, is related to an injection issue, so I agree with you.

Let us know any and all codes present. Also, let me know if you scanned the CAN to determine stored TCM codes. Here is a quick video showing how the can bus is read:

https://youtu.be/u-4syLc-ifQ

Take care,

Joe
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Thursday, September 30th, 2021 AT 7:30 PM
Tiny
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Joe,

Thank you for getting back to me. No, no progress since my detailed description.

CAN was scanned and not a single TCM code was found stored. That's unlike prior attempts as described which brought back the P0700. Now transmission system reads healthy and it's not.

Please follow through the events and try to make up a logical chain and direct me to what you would do in the circumstances. They won't get any clearer right now. Otherwise I wouldn't be so lost myself. :)

Thank you.
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Friday, October 1st, 2021 AT 11:05 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

Let's give this a try. I read through everything again. I have a question. You indicated the transmission range sensor was replaced because all the gear indicator lights were on. Did the new sensor resolve that problem?

Next, the P0211 isn't a relevant code for this vehicle. Could it be something different?

Without a code, I found general diagnostics for transmission problems. I have a feeling there is an issue within the can-bus where the TCM isn't communicating with the PCM, or there is an internal fault within the TCM. If it is in limp mode, there should be codes.

Take a look at the diagnostics below. Let me know if this is something you are comfortable doing. They are specific to a no-response condition from the TCM. Since there are no codes and it's in limp mode, there must be a breakdown in communication.

If you are able to, check to see if you are able to communicate with the TCM using your scan tool. If you can't, try going through the diagnostics below.

Let me know if there is anything additional you can think of. Also, let me know if the transmission range sensor is now signaling the gear indicator properly.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.
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Friday, October 1st, 2021 AT 7:29 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
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Just to add, did anyone use a scan tool that can access the transmission? The 700 is a general transmission code indicating there are other codes stored.

Roy
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Saturday, October 2nd, 2021 AT 11:36 AM
Tiny
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Joe,
Roy,

Thanks for the follow-up. First of all, we're in a part of the world where American cars are extremely rare and so are their diagnostics. We can barely find a shop to read the DTCs here. In Europe we don't use scan tools, instead we use just software that reads live and stored data via OBDII connection to a laptop computer. That's now we got what we got.

Needless to say, testing sequences are not at all like what's described in the service manual. And what's even worse, we do not have diagnostic software of our own. Each time we test we have to book with a shop and they're not very attentive at all. They basically rush through the DTCs because we don't book a repair with them, only diagnostics and they don't make that much money off this.

We've done DTC reads four times now and up until the last time the P0700 was stored but no other transmission-related code was stored or would come up live. That's why we don't have a clue, hence this thread.

NB! Joe, no, replacing the TRS never resolved the dash lever position issue. It pops up randomly still. A question on this one: what's the connection of the TRS inside the gear box and could it be compromised? I'm thinking, if a signal to the outside connector is lost this could cause this behavior and the limp mode but is it worth investing into opening up the transmission again to check how the TRS is connected inside? How possible is that?

The P0211 is exactly what it is, no error there. I also thought it wasn't related but had to ask. The other two DTSs stored concern entirely different systems and are harmless and definitely unrelated.

Strange thing is car is In limp mode and not only we never got a specific code for a transmission issue but now we're not getting the general one P0700 either and it's still in limp.

Basically, we don't have the equipment to dig deeper so it's a guessing game. I'm thinking given all we've tried it's very possible it's a TCM issue, I just have to exclude everything else before I go on buying a new PCM because we can't get it programmed to the VIN here. We can't even quick learn it.

I just needed to hear your thoughts on how you would approach this if you were as unequipped as we are.

So now the questions are the NB! Above and if the next and last possible cause would be the TCM. Please share your considerations on those.

Thank you.
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Monday, October 4th, 2021 AT 1:24 AM
Tiny
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FYI, I dug up the codes from the last read, they're 0013, 0211, 0499 and 0510. Totally off.
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Monday, October 4th, 2021 AT 1:27 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

The only code that is relevant for this vehicle is the P0499, which deals with the emissions system. So, it is not transmission related.

The only code we have is a generic code, P0700. That simply indicates there is a diagnostic code stored in the transmission control module. I'm not familiar with how scanning is done there, but we need to communicate with the TCM.

The idea that the PCM or TCM needs to be replaced isn't really a consideration at this point simply because the PCM has worked correctly by indicating the P0700. It's telling us to check the TCM for codes. How is the question.

As far as the TRS, absolutely there could be an internal wiring issue. I attached the wiring schematic for the entire transmission control circuit below for your review.

The idea that the indicator isn't showing a gear is likely the cause of the vehicle being in limp mode. It doesn't recognize what gear it is in.

I need you to check something for me. Fuse 5 in the power distribution center under the hood powers the transmission control relay. First, make sure the fuse is in good condition and the connection in the box isn't damaged, corroded, or have a pin pushed in.

If that is good, then check the control relay. If there is another one with the same part number, switch them. If there isn't, here is a link that shows how to test one:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Pics 1-4 are the wiring schematic. The last pic shows the power distribution box. I highlighted the fuse and relay to check.

Let me know what you find.

Take care,

Joe
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Monday, October 4th, 2021 AT 7:58 PM
Tiny
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Joe,

Sorry for the delay, I was up in the mountains with no internet.

Thank you so much for the schematics! They help explain the system. Needless to say, fuse and relay have been long checked and are good. Our next move will be to open up the transmission and check on the internal connection of the TRS. It will be fun to ping the pins inside and outside too - we will need to have one person probing under the car and another over it. We're planning on it, but I would rather not do it with the car jacked up in the air because it would be tough. I'll let you know as soon as we get it done.

My move now so thanks a lot for all your help so far.

Have a nice day, talk to you soon.

Krassimir
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Thursday, October 14th, 2021 AT 1:40 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

Thank you for the update. I will watch for your reply. I hope you are able to find and repair the issue.

Take care,

Joe
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Thursday, October 14th, 2021 AT 6:02 PM
Tiny
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Joe,

The struggle continues. We spent the day checking connectors and harnesses and all is well. We pinged every single wire for resistance at both ends as well as for shorts on all other pins of the harness while looking at the wiring diagrams you sent me. Nothing came out wrong. Transmission is still in limp mode though.

Question:

So now I'm thinking, is there a chance any of the speed sensors could bring back this kind of issue? They go into the TCM too and we have not replaced them. Does it make any sense to go there at all?

Another thing we did is consult our PCM expert here on the phone and the guy said if a signal line was compromised in any way, it would bring back a DTC 100% of the time. So, he suggests we look outside the electrical and electronic components. He thinks it's something that the computer reads as right enough to not bring back a DTC and wrong enough that the car won't run with it. Since the transmission shifts through PRNDL positions fine, the only other thing like that is the fluid. You can refer to my first message with the chronology where we did a service change and the issue disappeared for a while.

I read in a forum that this transmission is extremely whimsical when it comes to the exact ATF +4 fluid.

No other diagnostics available here so we're limited to testing manually.

Basically, please let me know your thoughts on the speed sensors and the fluid as possible causes. Are they even remotely theoretically possible?

Thank you.
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Friday, October 29th, 2021 AT 10:48 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

As far as a wiring issue, corrosion can cause issues as well as an internally broken wire that can't be seen.

As far as the speed sensors, there is an input sensor and an output sensor. I can't say for sure if one is an issue without a code. Without the code, it becomes a guessing game.

Both the input and output sensors are hall effect sensors that create an AC current. I attached two pics below showing the locations. The TCM compares the input and output speed signals to determine gear ratio, speed ratio errors, and clutch volume index calculations. So, it can cause problems. You can check the sensors for an AC output, but I don't have specifics as far as speeds and voltages. That is where the code would help.

If you want, remove the sensors' connections, connect a digital multimeter to the two connections pins in the sensor. Next, place the DMM on AC voltage and with the front of the vehicle safely off the ground, turn the engine on, place it in gear, and see if there is an AC voltage signal. If there is none, the sensor is bad.

Let me know.

Joe
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Friday, October 29th, 2021 AT 7:27 PM

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