Transmission not shifting into gear

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.

If it shifts with the engine off but not when running, the clutch isn't disengaging. Lets start with bleeding the hydraulic clutch system. Here are the directions:

CLUTCH BLEEDING PROCEDURE
Fig. 2 Bleeding Clutch Damper & Operating Cylinder
Carefully monitor fluid level at master cylinder curing bleeding operation.
1. Fill reservoir with recommended brake fluid.
2. Connect transparent vinyl tube to air bleeder valve, Fig. 2.
3. Fully depress clutch pedal several times.
4. With clutch pedal fully depressed, open bleeder valve to release air.
5. Close bleeder valve.
6. Repeat steps three through five until clear brake fluid comes out of bleeder valve.

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If the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder are good and working, then I suspect the release bearing may not have been properly installed.

Let me know if bleeding helps or if you have other questions,

Take care,
Joe

No, it did not help. The clutch fork is working. And the throw out bearing only goes one way on the fork. The bearing side towards pressure plate and the forks demple is pushing towards the rear. I will look at it in the morning again. Do you think that if i dropped drive shaft in rear and tried to gear it, it might go?

If it will not go into gear with the engine running what does it do? Grind like the clutch is not disengaged or the shifter doesn't move or doesn't seem to be moving the gears?

If it grinds did the replacement engine have a new pilot bushing/bearing installed before the engine was installed? Was the clutch replaced?
A bad pilot bearing/bushing could cause binding and spin the input shaft so the gears cannot engage. If the clutch plate was installed backwards the center collar could bottom out on the flywheel causing the same issue as a bad pilot bearing.
If you shift into gear with the engine off and start the engine will the truck move okay but you cannot shift gears?

With it running, i try to put it in gear and it wants to act like it wants to go, no grinding. But the motor starts to act like its idle drops. As if under a load. I left the original clutch and plate on the motor because it was not worn. Should of put my clutch on it. pilot bearing felt good. Its a job taking that transmission off. But it looks like i might have to again. Was hoping not.

Okay, so you push in the clutch, shift into gear and without letting the clutch back up the car feels like it wants to move and the engine loads up. That is one of two things. Most likely would be the pilot bearing/bushing is binding.It doesn't take much for that, it could be at just a slight angle in the bore and cause just enough drag to be an issue.

So do i loosen the transmission and re-stab it? Or what should i do?

I would pull it, if the bearing is the issue and it's binding it could heat up and fail and either lock up or burn up. Plus I would probably double check the clutch motion.

Yea. Thought i would. But did not want to. But where is the knock sensor on that 3.0. And what color wire is it? I have a wire at back of motor that at one time was hooked up. The wire is white with black stripe.

Hello everyone. The knock sensor is located under the the intake. I attached a picture of it. It has a two pin connector. I've checked two different manuals for color identification, and it doesn't provide it.

My sensor has two prongs and plug does also. But only one side of the plug has female end in it. Why?
And with driveshaft off my truck goes in gear and transmission spins. But clutch functions but does not work while shifting gears. Could it be that the throw-out bearing slipped of fork and just looks to be working? Because the fork appears to be working as it should. Just not letting truck shift when i have the driveshaft on.

Welcome back:

Check to make sure the pin isn't damaged or pushed through the connector. As far as the drive shaft spinning when it's disconnected and not when you attach it. Are you sure it isn't turning and there is a problem with the differential? If it won't move, something has come apart internally and not allowing the disc to fully engage. You may even have a bad pressure plate.