Typical mileage for replacing brake pads

Hi there,

This is a very hard question to answer as this will depend on the brake pad hardness and the driving conditions, soft pads and city driving will eat pads quick, but country driving with hard pads will last a lot longer and fronts will wear faster than rears under normal conditions normally at a rate of 2 to 1 sets of pads. Here are instructions int he diagrams below to show you how on your car with a guide to help walk you through the steps.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-front-brake-pads-and-rotors-fwd

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Hello, I'm Danny.

Yes, organic are the cheapest and provide the most dust. Metallic are the second best and are not as dusty. Ceramic are the most expensive and last the longest. Are you asking what brand of these to use? Hope this helps and get back to us so we can go from there. Thanks for using 2CarPros.

Hello again.

To answer your question yes, Wagner are good but my choice personally have been Bendix. But that is my personal preference for longevity, quality, and overall superior performance. You never specified on your post as to which the front or rear pads you are asking about, but here are tutorials to view for front and rear brake pad replacement:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-front-brake-pads-and-rotors-fwd

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-rear-brake-pads-and-rotors

Hope this helps and thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Danny-

Hi,

It sounds like they cut the rotors, which is a normal thing to do as long as the rotors are still within the manufacturer's specs. Often times, they just get replaced.

As far as a hissing sound, I have to ask what kind of brake pads were used. Some semi-metallic pads are known to make noise. Also, ceramic brakes can create a unique sound as well.

Are the brakes working properly? Also, I realize you mentioned that it only does is now and then. However, it is loud enough for you to record with your phone and upload for me to hear? As far as the sound, could it be described as a rubbing sound rather than a hissing? When I hear hissing, I think of an engine vacuum leak.

Let me know. Also, if you look at the two pics below, I highlighted the rotor and brake hardware in pic 1. The hardware (with arrows pointing where they go) can be bent or not properly installed, so check them. Also, make sure the rotor is smooth and there is no evidence of something cutting grooves into them.

Pic 2 shows the brake wear indicator. They are designed to touch the rotor to warn you when the pads wear out. If they are bent or loose, that could also be an issue.

Let me know.

Take care,
Joe

Hi,

I suspect it has something to do with the type of brakes. I'm saying that simply because it stopped since the rain started. Now they are wet.

As far as brake fluid, I don't feel that would cause anything like this. However, it wouldn't hurt to check. I attached a pic showing the location of the brake master cylinder reservoir location. There will be a line on it indicating full and low. Check the level. If you need to add, it requires DOT 3 brake fluid. Any parts store will have it.

I attached another pic, pic 2, so you know what you are looking for. Note that the reservoir may be shaped differently.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

Good afternoon,

If the pedal goes to the floor, there is a possible issue with the master cylinder.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/brake-pedal-goes-to-the-floor

There is air in the lines from the lack of fluid. I would replace the master cylinder and bleed the system.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-brake-master-cylinder

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-bleed-or-flush-a-car-brake-system

Roy

REMOVAL
1. REMOVE AIR CLEANER ASSEMBLY
2. DISCONNECT LEVEL WARNING SWITCH CONNECTOR
3. DRAW OUT FLUID WITH SYRINGE

NOTICE: Do not let brake fluid remain on a painted surface. Wash it off immediately.

4. REMOVE RESERVOIR WITH BRACKET
Remove the 2 bolts and reservoir with bracket .
Torque: 8.0 Nm (82 kgf-cm, 71 inch lbs.)

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

5. DISCONNECT BRAKE LINES
Using SST, disconnect the 2 brake lines from the master cylinder.
SST 09023-00100
Torque: 10 mm nut: 15 Nm (155 kgf-cm, 11 ft. lbs.)
Torque: 12 mm nut: 19.6 Nm (200 kgf-cm, 14.5 ft. lbs.)

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

6. REMOVE MASTER CYLINDER
(a)w/o VSC:
Remove the 2 mounting nuts.
Torque: 13 Nm (130 kgf-cm, 9 ft. lbs.)
(b)w/ VSC:
Disconnect the brake line from clamp and remove the bolt and clamp, then remove the 2 mounting nuts and bracket.
Torque:
Mounting nut: 13 Nm (130 kgf-cm, 9 ft. lbs.)
Clamp bolt: 5.0 Nm (51 kgf-cm, 44 inch lbs.)
(c)Pull out the master cylinder with gasket.
7. REMOVE GASKET FROM MASTER CYLINDER

INSTALLATION
Installation is in the reverse order of removal.

HINT:
- Before installation, adjust length of brake booster push rod.
- After installation, fill the brake reservoir with brake fluid, bleed the brake system.
- Check for leaks, check and adjust brake pedal.

Hello

Below are the procedures for replacing your vehicle's front brake pads..

FIG. 10

That is the proper replacement procedures..if you still can't do the job take it to a shop..