2000 Toyota RAV4 Lean Codes and Stalling

171 Lean mixture
420 catalytic converter inefficient
1130 Air Fuel sensor range
1133 air fuel sensor


All those codes mean is theat the system is running lean and suspect the O2 sensor is bad.

I would like to know thw engine, miles and tranny type.

what is the tranny means?

[quote:24ef9579f3="tonyx05"]what is the tranny means?[/quote:24ef9579f3]

It means the Transmission which is attached to the engine that turns the driveline meaning the wheels.

Good luck!

recently i had a CEL on, and i had pulled out there is 2 codes , they are p0171 , and p1130, any body know what i suppose to do exactly for this problem please help.

[quote:b919e57d49="tonyx05"]recently i had a CEL on, and i had pulled out there is 2 codes , they are p0171 , and p1130, any body know what i suppose to do exactly for this problem please help.[/quote:b919e57d49]

P0171 Lean Mix can be caused by the following:

* Low fuel pressure due to a weak pump or leaky fuel pressure regulator. (use a fuel pressure gauge to check fuel pressure at idle)

* Dirty fuel injectors. (try cleaning the injectors)

* Vacuum leaks at the intake manifold, vacuum hose connections or throttle body. (Use a vacuum gauge to check for low intake vacuum)

* Leaky EGR valve. (Check operation of EGR valve)

* Leaky PCV Valve or hose. (Check valve and hose connections)

* Dirty or defective Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF). (Try cleaning the MAF sensor wires or filament with aerosol electronics cleaner. Do NOT use anything else to clean the sensor, and do not touch the sensor wires)

P1130 Heated oxygen sensor

i have a toyota 2000 Rav 4, with 92.000 miles on it , i just had a timing bell replaced about a week ago, this had happened to me several days ago, its had a CEL on/ off, recently it stayed on constantly, i was drove from a work place to home on Friday, suddenly the engine had stopped, i quickly put the gear back into park position, and started to crank the engine back on again, that CEL still there, when i drove home i notices my radiator fans isn't working at all, i talk to th e mechanic nearby where i lived that why my engine stalled and stopped when i was driving and stopped for a red light , the RPMS idle is really low to zero and the engine shuts off,he help me to pull these problem out by using a code reader , that reader show him by 2 codes P0171 / P1130, anyone have any idea how to fix this problem please help would appreciates, please help me how to deal with this problem by my self ,if its easy to do it your self that will help me too, cause i don't wanna spend no more money on this, my budget is now running clean. thanx for helping please.

I'd guess and say it's your O2 sensor.

[quote:026e6e5a36="tonyx05"]i have a toyota 2000 Rav 4, with 92.000 miles on it , i just had a timing bell replaced about a week ago, this had happened to me several days ago, its had a CEL on/ off, recently it stayed on constantly, i was drove from a work place to home on Friday, suddenly the engine had stopped, i quickly put the gear back into park position, and started to crank the engine back on again, that CEL still there, when i drove home i notices my radiator fans isn't working at all, i talk to th e mechanic nearby where i lived that why my engine stalled and stopped when i was driving and stopped for a red light , the RPMS idle is really low to zero and the engine shuts off,he help me to pull these problem out by using a code reader , that reader show him by 2 codes P0171 / P1130, anyone have any idea how to fix this problem please help would appreciates, please help me how to deal with this problem by my self ,if its easy to do it your self that will help me too, cause i don't wanna spend no more money on this, my budget is now running clean. thanx for helping please.[/quote:026e6e5a36]

Start with the coolant temperature and heated oxygen sensor

anyone know what cause the engine pull back so heavily when up on the hill and after 30-40 second in the time it kick and pull again, any idea please help, also when stopping at the red lite idle it really low like it wanna shut off the engine, any help would greatly be appreciates.

[quote:4e56bde815="tonyx05"]anyone know what cause the engine pull back so heavily when up on the hill and after 30-40 second in the time it kick and pull again, any idea please help, also when stopping at the red lite idle it really low like it wanna shut off the engine, any help would greatly be appreciates.[/quote:4e56bde815]

Check the fuel pressure

rasmataz what would i do 1st, change the fuel pump? by the way how do i check the fuel pressure my self, i don't wanna take to any mechanic any-more, the're driving me nuts. please help thanxxxxxxxx

[quote:1125f2591e="tonyx05"]rasmataz what would i do 1st, change the fuel pump? by the way how do i check the fuel pressure my self, i don't wanna take to any mechanic any-more, the're driving me nuts. please help thanxxxxxxxx[/quote:1125f2591e]

Worrry about the F/pressure later. Test the throttle position and MAP sensor by following the book procedures.

RAV4 TPS checks

RAV4,
(1)Fully Closed VTA & E 2200-5700 ohms

Fully Open VTA & E 22000-10,200ohms
VC & E 22500-5900ohms
(1)Apply vacuum to throttle opener before checking TP sensor.

In the book find the illustration of the throttle opener and do below.

THROTTLE OPENER ADJUSTMENT
RAV4

Start engine and warm engine to normal operating temperature. Ensure idle speed is within specification.
See 4-CYLINDER IDLE SPEED under IDLE SPEED & MIXTURE.

With engine idling, disconnect and plug vacuum hose at throttle opener. Increase engine speed to 2500 RPM. Release throttle and note engine speed.

Engine speed should be 1300-1500 RPM with electric cooling fan off.

If engine speed is not within specification, loosen lock nut (if equipped) and rotate throttle opener adjusting screw until correct engine speed is obtained. Tighten lock nut (if equipped). Reinstall vacuum hose on throttle opener.

You might have a dead spot on the TPS or a problem with the MAP sensor

Do you have any OBD2 code/s

ras...unfortunately i think i can only give u minimum support here ..i pretty much know the problem n fixed so many of the similar type....these all are late model wideband air fuel ratio sensor car...only way to verfy the before after or flowing propane is by mastertech(original factory scanner)on datastream or mode 6 which involve drive cycle b4 & after (li'o too much for these guy) ....i don't think they use a |Map ...even they do...the mass air flow sensor has the authority ....u & I know better than any1 toyota has an issue on these MAF ...but to know for sure it can only be done by scan data at high rpm w/observation of the wideband ..then take the # on grams/sec plug into the equation of volumetric calculator n find up the effieciency is up to par .... I don't think I can swing this 1 by low tech ....

Okay okay this is really get into the Master mind, i don't think i can really do all this by my self, and i wouln't even know where are these symtoms located, but little ideas and help is sooooo greatful , once again Rasmataz i had replaced my O2 sensor but the problem now is the engine is pull back even on the horizontal surface Rasmataz, please helpp, i don't know why? and the RPM is really low when i waited at red light.

[quote:8bdf25d63e="tonyx05"]Okay okay this is really get into the Master mind, i don't think i can really do all this by my self, and i wouln't even know where are these symtoms located, but little ideas and help is sooooo greatful , once again Rasmataz i had replaced my O2 sensor but the problem now is the engine is pull back even on the horizontal surface Rasmataz, please helpp, i don't know why? and the RPM is really low when i waited at red light.[/quote:8bdf25d63e]

Final respond: Get it scan for code/s I've allready given you a lead, however you have not responded whether you're checking it and coming back with the results-In my opinion this problem is beyond your control-therefore you need a pro to fix the problem-again its not DIY thing. Its really hard to assist when am not there looking at it in different angles/approach. I'm sorry my best wasn't good enough.

CTS/TPS/MAF or Airflow meter??????????--could be also clogged-up exhaust.

Good Luck

Hey Ras....I think Rav4 even though is an inline 4 banger ..but it has 2 upstream and 2 dn stream O2 sensor on most models.....bet u he put after market O2 sensor instead of a wide band air fuel ratio sensor .....thats where the bucking came from....

[quote:5f5ac22a7f="kin chan"]Hey Ras....I think Rav4 even though is an inline 4 banger ..but it has 2 upstream and 2 dn stream O2 sensor on most models.....bet u he put after market O2 sensor instead of a wide band air fuel ratio sensor .....thats where the bucking came from....[/quote:5f5ac22a7f]

Could be it they operate differently in heat plus its got its own relay within the circuit that operates at the same time as the EFI relay.

wide band air fuel sensor use amp to detect rich & lean condition while voltage stay pretty much constant .....traditional O2 sensor use voltage to reflect the A/F ratio ..but not accurate just rich & lean.......but most of the wide band crapping out are becuz of the heating element went.....now that can be chk with a low amp probe

[quote:fad494ac03="kin chan"]wide band air fuel sensor use amp to detect rich & lean condition while voltage stay pretty much constant .....traditional O2 sensor use voltage to reflect the A/F ratio ..but not accurate just rich & lean.......but most of the wide band crapping out are becuz of the heating element went.....now that can be chk with a low amp probe[/quote:fad494ac03]

The Wide Ratio A/F sensor it operates @1200F deg compared to the narrow @ 600 it changes its 8 amps. output to the amount of O2. At stoichimetry there's no current flow and the voltage put out by the detection circuit is 3.3volts. At rich mix it produces a negative current flow then voltage goes below 3.3volts. At lean mix positive current flow,the detection circuit will produce above 3.3volts. With the narrow ones its at 0.45volts.