1996 Toyota Camry Transmission Slipping

1996 TOYOTA
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LOSONE
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Toyota coolant fans are controled by their own ECU. The 3VZ-FE engine is located behind the glove compartment with the 2VZ-Fe engine is located in the left side of the fire wall. there is also a relay and a fusable link 30 amp fuse associated with each fan.

You need to insure that the fan is good. Put 12 volts across the fan terminals. If it runs it's good. If it doesn't run it's not and needs to be replaced.

Do the basic things first. like fuses and a defective fan. Good luck
Apr 20, 2006 at 8:47 AM
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LADYINBAYVIEW
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My engine is a 5F-SE. Can you tell me where to find the ECU for this one? Thanks
Apr 20, 2006 at 8:54 AM
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LOSONE
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Do u have a lever or pushbutton type control head??
Apr 20, 2006 at 11:09 AM
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LADYINBAYVIEW
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I have no idea. What is a control head and where do I find it?

If you're talking about inside the car that controls the a/c., the a/c button is a pushbutton, but the fan controls that say if you want 1-4 speeds of air flow, those are a turn dial - so I guess a lever control. If it's something else, please tell me what and where to find. Thanks for all your help.
Apr 20, 2006 at 11:48 AM
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LOSONE
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That 5FSE 96 Toyota has one of the most complicated fan contol system of any Toyota ever made. It is very complex to troubleshoot.

The fan circuit depends on relays energizing at a particular sequesnce with some control by the main ECU and AC amplifier. It also has A/C pressure pressure switches that complete the circuit when the A/C is not on so the fans will come on at 210 degrees.

It will be impossible for me to help. Even if I had the car in my shop it would take several hours to fix the problem. It HAS to go to a local professional mechanic that knows Toyotas in your area. Good Luck
Apr 21, 2006 at 1:49 AM
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LOSONE
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I spoke to a tech at the Toyota garage and gave me a way to check the fans when in the overheat mode.

Pull the wire off the tempeature switch. (engine cold) with the key on. If the fans run it is a sw problem. There are two kinds of switchs. MAKE sure you have the right sw. The right kind is normally closed until the temp reacher 200+ degrees then it opens making the fans run.

If they don't run, change the two fan relays around as they are in series. If the fans run, then replece the relays.

This is all I can do for you assuming you have checked all the fuses and fusable links.
Apr 21, 2006 at 4:27 AM
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ROCK2001WWF
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Could that be the coolant temperature sensor?
Apr 21, 2006 at 1:13 PM
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LADYINBAYVIEW
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We replaced the cooling temperature switch. I heard there was also a sensor, but I can't find the "second one". The "plug" we replaced had two prongs inside a plastic casing, and screwed into the bottom of the radiator with an O ring on it. What does the other one look like, and where do I find it?
Apr 21, 2006 at 1:18 PM
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LOSONE
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Like I said, unplug the one on the radiator. Turn the key on, if the fans run then it is the radiator switch.

The other sensor if for computer control and has NOTHING to do with fan operation.
Apr 21, 2006 at 2:05 PM
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LADYINBAYVIEW
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Ok, this morning we drove the car again, after doing what you said yesterday. We went up and down our street 6 times this time. No problems. When we turned into the drive to check the temperature (with a candy thermometer on the top edge of the radiator) the temperature read 140degrees. Then, miraculously, the fans came on all by themselves (no a/c button pushed). So we thought, wow, the car is okay, and shut the hood to drive up and down the street 2 more times. We reached 42 MPH, and decided the car should be tested on the highway. So, we went to the end of the street, got on the highway, and the transmission started to slip again. We turned off, and then lost all gears. We shut the car off for 30 seconds, and then restarted again, and drove home. Could this be a mechanical problem then not electrical? What makes a car lose all gears, but then gives them back with 20-30 seconds engine off time?

Thanks for all your advice. It's REALLY helping a LOT!
Apr 22, 2006 at 3:02 AM
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LOSONE
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Your problem is a bad transmission. When you install another tranny clean the old fluid from the tranny cooler in the radiator, install a rebuilt torque conveter and you will be good to go. Don't leave any of the old burnt fluid to contaminate the new parts. Transmission fluid burns because of slipping internal clutches. Good luck!!
Apr 22, 2006 at 11:28 AM
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LADYINBAYVIEW
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Hi Lee. Thanks for all the help before.

We have a new problem. (It's just our luck). Okay, so we replaced the transmission like you suggested. We exchanged the "faulty one" before for another one. We reinstalled everything, and went to take it for a test drive. It had trouble backing up and when we put it in drive, had trouble going 5 feet. This 3rd tranmission is giving us crap now!

We put a code reader (generic OBD2 reader) and it came back as shift solenoid E. This tranmission is slipping now - can you suggest anything?

Thanks again for helping us again.
Bonnie
Apr 28, 2006 at 3:07 AM

Suggested Repair

Check fuses, fusible links, and the fan motors with 12 volts. Unplug the radiator temperature switch with the key on; if the fans run, replace that switch. Swap the series fan relays if they do not. The computer coolant sensor does not control the fans. For slipping and loss of gears, replace the transmission, install a rebuilt torque converter, and flush all old fluid from the radiator cooler.

Conversation Summary

A 1996 Toyota Camry owner reported cooling fans that would not come on. The expert explained the complex fan circuit and advised checking fuses, fusible links, fan motors, the radiator temperature switch, and the fan relays, noting that the computer coolant sensor does not operate the fans. After the fans later ran, the transmission slipped and lost all gears until the engine was restarted. The expert diagnosed a bad transmission and recommended replacement with a rebuilt torque converter and a thoroughly cleaned cooler. After a replacement transmission still slipped and set a shift solenoid E code, no further expert diagnosis was given.

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