ECU location and replacement?

Turn key to On position, check power at the injector connector black and white-do you have power-if not you have and open wire all the way to the ignition switch or the switch itself.

Got power could be the computer ground drivers.

If the computer don't get the Ne and G from the crankshaft and camshaft sensors signals it will not tell the ignitors to fire the coils or any type of fuel injection.

If you're a DIY and lacking electrical/electronics background, your best bet is bring it in

hi rasmataz
i check power ( injectors & coilsand and ecu ) and get that and worked fuel pump in time start.
but no signal for injectors & coils
i want to know that if getn"t signal of camshaft & crancshaft for ecu do work fuel pump?

thanks for your guide

When you turn key to On-do you hear the fuel pump coming On? If not check the MAF sensor and circuit opening relay this the two that powers up the fuel pump.

I have been getting codes p1346 and p1349 for about a year and a half now i have replaced both the vvt oil flow solenoid and the timing gear test drove for about 5 miles then the cel came back on is there any other part that could be causing the problem. Bad ECU?

Hi S-diehl3,

Here are the diagnostic procedures for P1346. P1349 is not listed anywhere, can you reconfirm the code?

DTC P1346: VARIABLE VALVE TIMING (VVT) CIRCUIT RANGE/PERFORMANCE
CAUTION:If ECM replacement is instructed in following testing, always ensure ECM connectors and ground circuit are okay. If either are suspect, repair and repeat testing to confirm ECM malfunction.

NOTE:
Variable Valve Timing (VVT) sensor may also be referred to as camshaft position sensor.

NOTE:
Bank No. 1 refers to bank which includes cylinder No. 1. Bank No. 2 refers to bank without cylinder No. 1.

Circuit Description

The Variable Valve Timing (VVT) sensor consists of a signal plate and pick-up coil. The signal plate has one tooth and is mounted on each intake camshaft. The VVT sensor provides feedback to ECM in order to control intake valve timing. DTC is set when ECM detects a deviation in crankshaft position sensor and VVT sensor. Possible causes are:

• Mechanical system malfunction (timing belt stretched of timing belt teeth jumped).
• Defective ECM.

Diagnostic Aids
Using scan tool, read freeze frame data. Freeze frame records engine conditions when malfunction is detected.

Diagnosis & Repair
Check valve timing. Check for loose, stretched or jumped teeth of timing belt. If problem exists, repair as necessary. If problem does not exist, replace ECM.

© 2008 Mitchell Repair Information Co., LLC.

My 15 amp ECM fuse continues to blow

Hi wcreeder. Welcome to the forum. Plug in a pair of spade terminals in place of the blown fuse, then connect a light bulb to them with a couple of pieces of wire. A 12 volt brake light builb works nicely. The bulb will be full brightnes when there is a short on the line. Go around unplugging things and moving harnesses around until the bulb goes out or gets dim. That will give you a quick visual indiacation that you are on the right track.

caradiodoc

I'm trying to program a new remote for my car and i can't find the ecu. I need to late the ecu for the alarm system

pic shows correct ecu and a pro needs to scan this to see what is wrong with system as he will have to program it anyhow you will not be able to unless you have a pro scanner.

The first question i asked on here was where is the ecu and the person that answered said it was in the far left side of the dash. ..the second question was how do i get to the ecu and the person answered, take out the glove box. So now my third question is, what? How does taking the glove box out help me get inside the dash on the drivers side? More confused now than originally

See Figure sorry for the miss info

Hi, if you stay on the original post, the person your talking to will know your asking another question. If you make a new post, they won't know except by accident.

My info shows close to underneath center of dash. Note the picture, ecm. The picture came from 2carpros, poster--BMRFIXIT, several years ago. My info for removal is very basic, I'd have to look at it.

Sorry doc, I didn't see you there, have a good day.

How Do i get to the ecu

Remove the golve compartment and you should be able to get to it.

How is that? Another person told me its on the drivers side

Sorry, it is below center of dash. See figure.

Four cylinder two wheel drive automatic.

Where is the electronic control unit located?

ECU for what? Engine, ABS? Any how here is a picture inside and out side of the car with the location of them all. Good luck.

Oh, I am sorry. I mean MAP. I am planning to build the water4gas. I have located PCV already, but I would need help the location and how to identify the following: 1. MAP Sensor. This is where I will connect the MAP sensor enhancer according the Water4gas ebook.

2. Fuel line near the firewall? To connect fuel heater. Is this safe by the way? Thanks

left side middle of engine .

I just bought a 1998 Toyota Corolla with 139k miles on it. It is in great shape except for one issue: it runs hot (about 3/4 gauge). I had the cooling system flushed to see if it would help with no improvement. When I drove to work this AM I noticed the following:
1- It heats up/gets hotter while driving
2- It cools down a little bit when stopped at lights
3- It cools down significantly when stopped and I blast the heat

I have been going through the coolant flow over and over then rememberer the electric fans. With the car idling in the parking garage, I waited to see if the fans came on. Both fans come on when the temp gauge goes over 3/4 guage. and then cycle off, suggesting the fans are not coming on at the right temperature.

From my reading/research online, I believe simply unplugging the fan temp switch will cause the fans to run constantly in "fail safe" mode. Is this correct? If so, would you agree I should try making the 40 minute drive home with the fans running constantly to see if it resolve the temperature problem and, if it does, the switch is the culprit?

wen it gets hot , turn car and fans off, put hand on radiator if you feel cold spots the rad is bad if not have system pressure checked for internal coolant leak like head/intake gasket

sometimes when its cold, its works for like 10minutes before it goes off.Have serviced the injector,nozzles and have changed the fuel pump,plugs and fuses. The battery and engine was changed 6months back.

Did you check for trouble codes and is the MIL indicating?
Does keeping slight pressure on the accelerator keeps the engine running?
Are you able to restart?

Yes to all the questions you asked.
Yes, keeping slight pressure on the accelerator keeps the engine running. And am able to restart on park or Neutral but it goes
off afterwards and car stops moving.

Are you getting any trouble codes?
If no, have the throttle body and IAC cleaned and retest. Seems the idle speed is too low.

A Car repair shop has determined that my 1997 Toyota Corolla has four possible problems. The ignition coil, Ignition egniter, Distributor or the ECM Computer. My mechanic has determined that all the Ignition coil, Ignition Enighter, and Distributor are all okay. If the ECM computer the last option does not work what could be another answer to my problem?

What problem are you having? Missing, no power, hard to start?

My Toyota Corolla 1997 has a hard time starting. My engine is in good shape. The Ignition Igniter, Ignition Coil, Distributor, plug wires, spark plugs, battery, and alternator are okay. My car drives smoothly but when it gets hot like all cars do, the car would cut off suddenly and then I would have a hard time starting the car. I would have to wait like ten minutes for it to cool down and then it will start up and drive again, until hot and then cut off again. If a ECM replacement does not solve the problem, then where else should I look for the problem? Thanks much.

Generally when the car dies hot and restarts cool, it is a bad ignitor (ignition module). But I would also measure fuel pressure with a mechanical gauge to make sure it is not a fuel problem.

The car is idling fast - it was diagnosed at a repair shop as a faulty idle module. I do not want to put more money in the car, because I would like to trade up soon. Can the car be driven safely with the idle module problem? What could possibly happen down the road?

I guess that depends on your definition of "safe". If it's idling too fast, that could be considered a safety concern in itself. That's about all that will go wrong though.

I agree with that. However, if you are able to hold the vehicle while in gear with pressing the brake then that would be the only real safety issue with the high idle. If you can't keep it stopped and it creeps while holding the brake then that would not be safe. Otherwise if the car runs with just a high idle then it is okay to drive for now.