1993 Toyota Corolla When it gets warm it won't run right

Tiny
DENNYPS
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 156,000 MILES
Hi and thanks! When I first bought my car about 10 mo ago, I noticed a slight stuttering kind of hesitation when I was on the freeway in the upper power band, it was not bad and would recover quickly and run fine. I blew it off as to needing a tune up and delayed the tune up. As the months went by, this stuttering or jumpy hesitation continued to get worse mostly in the upper power band with a load on it. Then it started to hesitate and run with a jumpy kind of loss of power until I did not trust it on any busy street anymore. As it got worse it became evident that there was a connection between the car being cold and warming up. When it was cold it ran perfect, no problems but as it got warmed up I would get a very definite, hesitation driving it anywhere.
It continued to get even worse and I then on some advice I replaced the O2 sensor. This did not help much and I am on limited income so could not afford to take it to a shop and on side streets I could get by running it.
The other day a friend and I were looking at it and he suggested that I change the cap and rotor, which I did (they only go on one way and I confirmed that the firing order is correct). It ran for a few minutes poorly and the next day it would not even start. Note: I have checked and changed the following, all vacuum hose's that looked bad or worn I replaced. During this process I have checked the plugs burning pattern and have found a nice brown color to the plugs. There is no water in the oil or oil in the water. My charging system puts out a healthy 13.8 volts when running. Thanks for anyones time, I am out of ideas.
Saturday, June 26th, 2010 AT 1:42 PM

12 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Hi Dennyps, Welcome to 2carpros and TY for the donation

It ran for a few minutes poorly and the next day it would not even start.

What exactly is it doing now? We move from here
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Saturday, June 26th, 2010 AT 4:25 PM
Tiny
DENNYPS
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  • 9 POSTS
The car won't start... like I said in post all I did that made the difference is add a new cap and rotor (no brainer they go in only 1 way and can't screw it up) I checked and dbl checked the firing order and it is correct. It did start after I did the change but the next day, it would not even start. A motor head friend says that he thinks it's the coil shorting out and he actually had a friend that this similar thing happened too. Here is a pic of my distributor, everything looks okay but we know that can be deceiving.
what do you think?


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/180665_P1000515_2.jpg

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Sunday, June 27th, 2010 AT 10:17 AM
Tiny
GEET
  • MEMBER
  • 34 POSTS
He must have the car scanned for trouble code. I think the coolant temperature sensor is not working or the map.
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Sunday, June 27th, 2010 AT 12:12 PM
Tiny
DENNYPS
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
Thanks for your time geet, the car is not showing any codes (at least the idiot light is not coming on, to show signs of trouble). It could just be the light on the dash is out, I have not looked into this. Also the fact that I had an impact on the functioning of the car (from running cold to warm ruff, to not starting at all) by replacing the "rotor & cap" with new ones should give a guy some clues. That ring any bells to you.

How can I test each of the coolant sensors to narrow it down? Can I run a meter across them (are they (there seem to be several) N/O or N/C switches, any ideas?
Also on the "map" sensor, even though there appears to be one in the schematics I have seen, in the region that the schematic say's there is one, there is not one. In fact it looks like a MAF sensor instead, any ideas specifically you have to this year, make, model & engine size would be of help.

If you can help me troubleshoot this down to a few places, sensors or devices I am quite confident in my ability to R & R to solve this problem.
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Sunday, June 27th, 2010 AT 1:10 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
The car won't start.

Do below basic stuffs to determine if its a fuel or spark problem

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine atleast 3/16 away from ground-have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, coil's resistances, cap and rotor, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it
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Sunday, June 27th, 2010 AT 3:45 PM
Tiny
DENNYPS
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
Thank You Rasmataz for reminding me of the basic's, you are exactly right on and I will do and let you know how it comes out.
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Sunday, June 27th, 2010 AT 9:42 PM
Tiny
GEET
  • MEMBER
  • 34 POSTS
Use obd 1 scan tool or
Initial conditions
(a) Battery voltage 11 V or more
(b) Throttle valve fully closed (throttle position sensor
IDL points closed)
(c) Transmission in neutral position
(d) Accessories switched OFF
(e) Engine at normal operating temperature
2. Turn the ignition switch ON. Do not start the engine.
3. Using SST or a piece of wire, connect terminals TE1 and E1 of the data link connector 1.
Read the diagnostic trouble code as indicated by the
number of flashes of the malfunction indicator lamp.
Normal System Operation (no malfunction)
"Â The light will alternately blink ON and OFF ap-
prox. 2 times per second.
Malfunction Code Indication
"Â In the event of a malfunction, the light will blink
every 0.5 seconds (0.52 seconds). The first
number of blinks will equal the first digit of a :
digit diagnostic trouble code and, after a 1.
Second pause, the 2nd number of blinks will equal
the 2nd. If there are two or more codes, there will
be a 2.5-second pause between each.
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Wednesday, June 30th, 2010 AT 11:20 AM
Tiny
DENNYPS
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
Do you have a blow up pic or can you describe how to find
1. " A piece of wire, connect terminals TE1 and E1 of the data link connector"?
2. A trouble codes chart to find out what code means what?
Thank You, Denny
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Thursday, July 1st, 2010 AT 7:30 AM
Tiny
GEET
  • MEMBER
  • 34 POSTS
Have it on pdf file. Not know how to upload it. Can you have your car scanned at a mechanic having OBD 1 scan tool. Or search web for shorting the terminals. You just need to join the 2 terminals with a piece of wire.
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Friday, July 2nd, 2010 AT 11:09 AM
Tiny
DENNYPS
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
Capturing a. Pdf file page is really pretty easy, when you have the page up, just hold the left mouse key down and "select" the text. Once you have the text on the page selected then right click on it and "copy" the text or image. Next open up a word program (like win word or open office text) and then right click on the new page and paste it in. Then save that page to a file you have in your computer, also when you save it, the program will give you options on how to save it. If you save it as a bit map, jpg, etc. You will then be able to upload it here as a "picture". If you save it as "text" then you can merely paste it in this window.
On my car I give up, I am going to take it to a local guy several people have recommended as being a wiz with their cars and see what he can do. Thanks again for the help and good luck to you.
Denny
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Saturday, July 3rd, 2010 AT 6:54 AM
Tiny
GEET
  • MEMBER
  • 34 POSTS
Good luck bro. Its good you see the mechanic but remember to have it scanned for OBD 1 codes.
If a lot of problem then its better to change complete engine than rebuild it.
Hope to hear from you soon. We will wait for your answer and what you did.
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Saturday, July 3rd, 2010 AT 11:09 AM
Tiny
DENNYPS
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
I called a reputable mechanic I was recommended to by a friend. After a long chat with the mechanic guy, we came to the conclusion after all the checks (on the phone mind you) he suggested I replace the distributor and I opted for trying just the coil first. Long story short that did it, I took it out for a drive (longest drive this car has had in months, LOL) and she performed great, God I felt so good about it I even took her up to get her washed, it's like having my faithful friend back!
Well gotta go play in the summer sun, so you take care and thanks for hanging in their with me, Good thoughts to you and all you know, my Bro.
Denny
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Sunday, July 11th, 2010 AT 4:27 PM

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