1995 Toyota Celica 95 Celica 2.2 quit running. Spark, fuel a

Tiny
RALLYSPORT
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 TOYOTA CELICA
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 170,000 MILES
I was driving the other day and the car started sputtering and finally quit. I pulled over and restarted the car 4-5 times. Each time it ran less time until finally it just turns over. I assumed I was depleting what fuel was left in the system. That would explain the running less everytime I restarted it. I have it home and checked the fuel pump by loosening a banjo fitting on the fuel filter and there is plenty of fuel. I took 2 ignition wires loose and gorund them to the block and have spark. I changed the time belt because it needed it but before I removed the old one I checked for correct timing which it had. I have check the distributor to make sure it is timed as well and it is. I have sprayed started fluid in the plenum to at least see if it will fire but it won't. I am now thinking the injectore are not firing. Which leads me back to the original problem of the car starting less and less. Am I on ther right track? Have I missed some easy test? I checked the ECM and it tests good by flashing a constant light. What about EFI relay?
Tuesday, November 11th, 2008 AT 9:11 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
BLACKOP555
  • MECHANIC
  • 10,371 POSTS
First you will need a noid light and a fuel pressure test guage.

Hook up the test guage and check the pressure, then attempt to start and and keep checking the pressure, does it stay within specs?

Does gas dumped down the throttle body make it fire then shortly die?

Hook up the noid light to the injector harness, one at a time and crank it. Anything?
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Wednesday, November 12th, 2008 AT 6:37 AM
Tiny
RALLYSPORT
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I have got it to run. I replaced everything tune up wise. Cap, button, timing belt, plugs. It will run for a few minutes and then start to stumble and struggle. It will clear up and then stumble again. I will need to get a special gauge for Toyota since it has no shrader valve to connect to. I a starting to lean toward fuel again since it stumbles. I forgot to mention that I had to wind on it a long time before it finally started. It smoked steamy white smoke ot the back for a little bur has since cleared. Everytime I start it now I have to feather the pedal to get it started and then it clears up. Pressure regulator? Failing fuel pump perhaps?
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Wednesday, November 12th, 2008 AT 7:10 PM
Tiny
BLACKOP555
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Sounds to me like a fuel pump issue.

Have you tryed a new fuel filter, the white exhaust could have been excessive water in the gas and now the filter is contaminated?

Really would like you to get the pressure checked and see whats oging on when its stumbling, to see if its fuel pump/filter/regulator related or injector or fuel trim sensors.
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Thursday, November 13th, 2008 AT 6:53 AM
Tiny
RALLYSPORT
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  • 4 POSTS
I have put a filter, pump and regulator on it and its still doing it. I have checked the coil and found the primary widings are in spec. Between 10k and 14k ohms. The secondary is supposed the be between.4 and.5 ohms and its.6 ohms. Is that enough out of spec to worry about? I am going to check the igniter tommorrow and see if its in spec.
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Saturday, November 15th, 2008 AT 8:47 PM
Tiny
BLACKOP555
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Still would like you to check the fuel pressure irregardless of what youve replaced.
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Monday, November 17th, 2008 AT 8:48 AM
Tiny
RALLYSPORT
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I have gotten it to run but when I rev it to 3500 rpm it cuts out and the check engine light flashes. I have gotten a code 31 for map sensor. I have checked it and even replaced with a used one and still the same. If I try to keep it reved at 3500 it will finally give up and stall. If I try to restart it I have to wind on it a long time before it will finally stuggle to a start. Like and old car would that was flooded. The timing is correct and I have 180 psi on each cylinder. What about knock sensor? Or coil?
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Tuesday, December 2nd, 2008 AT 7:10 PM
Tiny
BLACKOP555
  • MECHANIC
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Have you checked for vaccum leaks on the map sensor vaccum line?

Have you unplugged the sensor and tryed running it? Run better now?

You may have a dmaged in the map sensor wiring harness causing the snesor to be showing bad when actually good.
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Wednesday, December 3rd, 2008 AT 6:13 PM

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