No electrical not working

RJJL

MEMBER
2007 KIA OPTIMA
2.7L
6 CYL
2WD
AUTOMATIC
140,000 MILES

Car is completely dead:
-The battery is good (battery tested, freshly charged over night, 12.7 volts on multi-meter, and just to check, nothing changes when jumpers from a running car are attached). Connections are good and clean.
- no hazards, no headlights, no dash lights, no "click", no nothing.

I have a power probe and have tested all blade type fuses (inside and engine bay fuse boxes). I cannot see a way to test the square fuses with the plastic hoods. I have never seen a 150 amp "fuse" like the one in this box, but I did a continuity test across it.
I have verified voltage at the ignition (heavy gauge incoming red wire).

What happened: My daughter drove home, no symptoms; turned off the engine, and couldn't extract the key. Attempted to restart the car to adjust the steering wheel thinking it was locking the key. Totally dead.

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9 Replies

KEN L

MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
48,356 POSTS

Hello,

it sounds like the ignition switch has gone. bad but to be sure here is a guide to help you test the power through the switch and the wiring diagrams to help you see how the system works:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Also make sure the battery cables are clean and tight.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

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Wednesday, February 6th, 2019 AT 2:28 PM

RJJL

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26 POSTS

Thanks for the diagrams Ken. I'll look them over tonight.

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Wednesday, February 6th, 2019 AT 6:48 PM

KEN L

MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
48,356 POSTS

Please let us know what happens

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Thursday, February 7th, 2019 AT 10:34 AM

RJJL

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26 POSTS

The wiring diagrams are excellent.
I have a multi-meter and a power probe, and some experience with automotive and electrical.
I tested all the fuses and fusible links in the engine bay fuse box and the kick panel fuse box. I removed the fusible links, tested for them for continuity, and verified 12V incoming to one terminal, then re-seated.
I verified 12V in to the kick panel fuse box (thick light yellow wire, single terminal connector)
I verified operation of the ignition switch in all key positions: 12V in on orange and pink, and 12V out on the ACC/ON/START key positions
So this is truly baffling.
(when I say 12V, I mean 12.7)

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Thursday, February 7th, 2019 AT 11:18 AM

KEN L

MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
48,356 POSTS

The test lead for the powerpoint where do you have the ground connected the battery? Try the ground on the body to see what happens you might have a ground battery cable that is shorted. Please test through the ignition switch.

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Friday, February 8th, 2019 AT 12:28 PM

RJJL

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26 POSTS

Good suggestion! I had the power probe positive and negative on the battery terminals. I’ll try that this evening.

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Friday, February 8th, 2019 AT 12:34 PM

RJJL

MEMBER
26 POSTS

Grounding power probe to the body produces intermittent connection. The power probe keeps resetting. However, a resistance test between the negative battery terminal and any other metal is 0 ohms.

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Friday, February 8th, 2019 AT 2:00 PM

RJJL

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26 POSTS

Fixed, thank you a thousand times!
No corrosion, no loose bolts and no evidence whatsoever that the 10-inch ground cable could be a bad connection. I removed the ground cable bolts to the body and tested the continuity of the cable, which was fine. I simply reinstalled (two bolts). The circuit was complete, and everything works again as expected.

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Saturday, February 9th, 2019 AT 11:45 AM

KEN L