CV axle replacement

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.

Which bolts are you referring to? There is a kit that VW offers. Here are the tools that come with it. Take a look through it.

https://youtu.be/Cm3ZCw0_MLo video

VW/AUDI AXLE NUT SET - AST TOOL # 6500
VW/Audi Axle Nut Set

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VW/Audi axle nut set. Contains:6500-14, 6500-17, 6500 X-30, and 6500 X-32.

- 14mm allen for VW Passat 1996-2001, Audi A4; front and rear axle bolts (AWD)
- 17mm allen for 1998-2005 VW Passat, 1999-2004 Audi A6, 2002-2005 Audi A4; front and rear axle bolts (AWD)
- 30mm 12 point socket for mid 1999-2005 VW Golf, Jetta, Cabrio, and Beetle; front axle nut
- 32mm 12 point socket with a 3/4" drive, VW Touareg; front and rear axle nuts

Contact AST for pricing.

Assenmacher Specialty Tools
1-800-525-2943

This Kit Contains the Following Tools:

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6500-14 - 14mm Allen Socket

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6500-17 - 17mm Allen Socket

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6500 X-30 - 30mm, 12-Pt. Socket

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6500 X-32 - 32mm, 12-Pt. Socket

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The tools above are related to removing the axle nut. The inner part which is bolted to the transmission most likely uses what is called a triple square spline type tool. It is similar to a torx type bolt, but has more splines,

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Now, here are the directions specific to removing the axle.

DRIVE AXLES, REMOVING AND INSTALLING
Drive Axles, Servicing

Drive Axles, Removing and Installing

WARNING:

- Do not re-use fasteners that are worn or deformed in normal use.
- Some fasteners are designed to be used only once, and are unreliable and may fail if used a second time. This includes, but is not limited to, nuts, bolts, washers, circlips and cotter pins. Always follow recommendations in this data-replace these fasteners with now parts where indicated, and any other time it is deemed necessary by inspection.

Special tools and equipment

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- 3283 hub puller
- VAG1331 torque wrench
- VAG1756 angle measuring wrench

Removing

CAUTION:

- The wheel bearings must not be loaded when the 12-point nuts are loose.
- If the wheel bearings are loaded by the vehicle's weight, the bearings will be stressed and their service life reduced
- If a vehicle has to be moved after removing the drive axle, first install the outer CV joint and tighten to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.) otherwise the wheel bearing will be damaged

- Lift vehicle until load on front axle is relieved.
- Loosen 12-point nut.
- Raise vehicle.
- Remove wheel.

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- Remove noise insulation panel (arrows).

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- Remove left-side noise insulation (arrows).

Vehicles with TDI engine

- Remove intake air duct between charge air cooler and turbocharger.

Continued for all vehicles

- Remove right-side noise insulation.
- Disconnect drive axle from transmission drive flange.
- Mark installation position of ball joint bolts on control arm.

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- Remove bolts (arrows).

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- Press drive axle out.

Note:

- When pressing the drive axle out make sure that sufficient clearance is available.

- Remove drive axle.

Vehicles with automatic transmission

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- Remove bolts (arrows).

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- Push engine/transmission assembly forward (i.e. using lever).
- Remove drive axle.

Note:

- The arrow in the illustration points forward.

Installing

- Remove any paint residue and/or corrosion on threads/ splines of outer joint.
- Lubricate drive axle splines with oil.
- Install drive axle.
- Guide outer joint into wheel hub splines as far as possible.
- Coat contact surface of twelve-point nut with oil and screw on as far as possible.
- Pull outer joint into wheel hub until outer joint is in position.
- Connect ball joint to control arm.
- Use new bolts.
- Align bolts to markings.

Fastener/location - Tightening torque

Ball joint to control arm: .................... 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.) + 1/4-turn (90°)
Use new bolts!

Transmission support to subframe: .................... 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.) + 1/4-turn (90°)
Use new bolts!

Drive axle to drive flange on transmission: .................... 40 Nm (30 ft. lbs.)

Recommended final tightening of 12-point nut:

- Lower vehicle until wheels touch ground.

WARNING:

- The vehicle must be standing on its wheels when loosening or tightening the 12-point nut. Otherwise there is risk of an accident.

- Tighten 12-point nut to 300 Nm (221 ft. lbs.) and then loosen one turn.
- Tighten 12-point nut to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).

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- Using VAG1756 angle measuring wrench, tighten additional 1/12-turn (30°)

Alternate final tightening of 12-point nut (if angle measuring wrench is not available):

- Lower vehicle until wheels touch ground.

CAUTION:

- The vehicle must be standing on its wheels when loosening or tightening the 12-point nut. Otherwise there is risk of an accident.

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- Tighten 12-point nut to 300 Nm (221 ft. lbs.) and then loosen one turn.
- Tighten 12-point nut to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
- Mark point on nut with line (arrow -A-).
- Mark 2nd line (arrow -B-) on edge of wheel hub above next point.
The distance between each point is 30°.
- Tighten 12-point nut until both lines align.

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Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Joe

Most likely, they aren't stuck but just tight. Honestly, I always use an impact gun to remove them. Do you have access to a compressor and impact gun? Is it the triple square bolts?

Those bolts have enough head on them that you should be able to get a good pair of vice grips on them. Try that.

Okay, let me know if that works. It always seems there is something to make a simple job difficult. I hope they work for you.

Joe

One other thought. If you heat them, don't be afraid to tap on them with hopes to break loose any corrosion.

No problem. I will watch for your reply.

Joe

Welcome back:

Any one that I ever removed was a 10mm triple square. Explain what is happening. Are the bolts already stripped?

I always use extensions and I have a solid swivel extension that I put the triple square on. With the wheel removed, I go right through the inner fender. You will have to keep turning the axle so you can access one of the bolts at a time. I was taught a long time ago to make the tools do the work, so I usually have about two feet in extensions. LOL I also use a snap on 3/8 impact. Everyone laughed at me when I got it, but it is by far the greatest tool I've ever had. It makes jobs so much easier and faster.

I will tell you that it won't remove the axle bolts. I use an air impact to break them loose, then remove them with the electric impact. I attached a picture of what I am referring to.

Try what I suggested.

Let me know if this helps.

Joe

I know this shouldn't be a torx (star) type bolt, but anything is possible. IF you can wait till tomorrow, I will check my set at work. I know exactly which one I always use because it has much more wear than the other. I swear it is a 10mm. Are you sure the inside of the bolt isn't rusted or have dirt stopping the tool to fit? Also, is there any way you can get a close up picture of them and upload it for me to see?

Let me know,
Joe

Okay I will watch for the picture.

Take care,
Joe