2008 Chrysler PT Cruiser Timing Marks

Hello, the timing marks on this vehicle are tricky, I'll post the service info and show the marks, the camshafts need to be in a very specific place.

This is each step in order, I think the 1st step of having the exhaust camshaft mark 1/2 tooth compared to the other camshaft is what can easily through someone off, whereas that extra slack is taken up in a further step, and those marks will line up when you're done, so go slow and make sure you read each one carefully. Hopefully this will help you out.

Just notice this first step is lining up the timing marks before the belt is removed the first time, it's getting the #1 cylinder up to top dead center. This next step is after the belt is off and ready for replacement, just so that's clear, don't rotate the crankshaft with the belt off.

Okay, because on the pully's we have the have the words up on them and so those should be facing up right to be the correct position.

The notches (marks) on the two camshaft sprockets are the ones you want to concentrate on, these marks here (below), notice the exhaust camshaft (left one) is 1/2 tooth lower than the intake camshaft, which is where the slack in the belt will be taken up in the further steps. Those words are there to help get the cams in the correct position when getting the #1 piston to TDC, but lining these marks up directly then removing the belt is the most important part. Just read each step carefully.
This is an interference engine, so the piston will hit the valves if the crankshaft is rotated without the belt on, that's why getting everything lined up correctly before taking the belt off is very important.

Okay, i have a? So, if the camshaft was rotated with the belt being off what would have to be done in order to get the timing to be right .

How far do you need to rotate it to get the marks back to where they should be? If you lined it up before taking the belt off the cams shouldn't be that far off. When the #1 cylinder is at TDC on a four-cylinder engine, the #4 is up also on its exhaust stroke. So those are the two cylinders right now that could potentially hit the valves. But really your marks should be close.

Okay, if i could i will send you a picture of where I'm at in the process and maybe you can help me from there. Please and thank you.

Well, there's 3 marks you need to worry about, where are they at this point? The crankshaft lines up with the mark on the oil pump, and your 2 camshaft marks should be facing in towards each other. Where are they now? Exhaust cam (left) should be at the 3-o clock position and the intake cam (right) should be at the 9-o clock position.

I will try to take better pics if you need them.

What is this mark circled in red? Is there a part number on these sprockets?

Is there an actually mark where your white paint it on the exhaust sprocket?

Yes, it is a grove just like the intake one.

Sorry, hold on let me go take a better picture.

Well, anyway by your first picture it looks like the exhaust cam (left) is off by 1 tooth and so is the intake cam, notice how both marks are facing upwards just a touch, those cams are off time. is the crankshaft mark lined up correctly at this point?

Okay, I'm going to take a couple more pictures because on both of the camshaft gears there is 2 each marks on them where the white marks are directly across from them are a mark well its indented like the white ones are.

I marked in red.

If I'm seeing the picture correctly, it looks like the exh cam needs to go clockwise 1 tooth and possibly the int cam needs to come back (counter clockwise) 1 tooth, but this is where having the exh cam 1/2 tooth lower comes into play.

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And so how would i go about making them the way they are supposed to be do i need to take off the belt and move the exhaust down one or do i keep the belt on and move them?

You have the tensioner already released I assume, you're going to have to go back to this step so you can release the tension on the belt, but what you can do to keep the belt where it needs to be while doing one cam at a time, is using a tie wrap, you know the plastic ones that are used for garbage bags, and need to be cut off. You can put a tie wrap around the top of camshaft sprocket to hold the belt in place while you correct the other cams position, you're basically just holding the belt's teeth to the sprocket's teeth in place.
If my 2nd diagram makes any sense of what I'm trying to say, with tie wraps around the intake sprocket and around the belt down on the crankshaft gear, they will hold the belt in place so you're not having to fight with it staying in place while tension is released on it.
Then you should have enough slack to slide the exh cam to the correct place, then tie wrap the exh cam and cut the tie wrap off the intake cam and reposition it, when the int cam is in place, put another tie wrap on it again just to hold the belt in place, make sure your exh cam is the 1/2 tooth below and the belt slack is on the side of the tensioner and follow through with the final steps again.
I would do this so I don't have to try to hold the belt in 3 or 4 places at once, hopefully I'm explaining this good enough, the 3rd pic is the tie wrap i mean, probably not spelling it correctly, but it will help a lot so the belt is not falling off everywhere when adjusting the cams. They only need to be slightly moved, don't rotate them around all the way, just hold the sprocket with a wrench and make your adjustments.
Once you re-tension the belt, make sure all your marks are good, use a straight edge across the cams to verify them. Hope this helps.