Timing chain installation

SPYNTRAK

MEMBER
2001 TOYOTA CELICA
1.8L
4 CYL
AUTOMATIC
164,329 MILES

Hi there, I was working on my car listed above GTS model timing chain. Forgot to mention I recently bought it from a previous owner. I removed the timing chain cover I tried to line up the dots from the cam shaft pulley and the two sprockets on top. In order for it to line up the sprockets the cam shaft pulley mark had to be turned a little bit more in order to line up. My question how can I make all marking line up?

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Monday, October 15th, 2018 AT 9:11 PM

13 Replies

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
109,724 POSTS

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros. Com.

This can be a bit tricky because excessive slack on the chain can cause it to move the crank pulley. The chain should have three painted links (marks), one for each cam and one for the crank. Take your time and align colored links with the timing marks. The marks are positioned an exact number of links between each. Once you get all of them to align, it will be good.

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle and this job. It explains everything in detail. All attached pictures correlate with these directions.

________________________________________

PROCEDURES
REMOVAL
1. REMOVE UPPER FRONT FENDER APRON SEAL AND UPPER RADIATOR SUPPORT SEAL
2. DRAIN ENGINE COOLANT
3. REMOVE RH FRONT WHEEL
4. REMOVE RH ENGINE UNDER COVER
5. REMOVE DRIVE BELT AND GENERATOR
6. DISCONNECT PS PUMP FROM ENGINE
a. Disconnect the PS oil pressure switch connector.
B. Remove the 2 nuts and through bolts, and disconnect the PS pump from the engine.

HINT: Put aside the pump and suspend it to the cowl with a string.

7. REMOVE RH ENGINE MOUNTING INSULATOR
a. Set the jack to the engine.

HINT: Place a wooden block between the jack and engine.
B. 1ZZ-FE: Remove the 4 bolts, 2 nuts and RH engine mounting insulator.
C. 2ZZ-GE: Remove the 5 bolts, 2 nuts and RH engine mounting insulator.

8. 1ZZ-FE: REMOVE CYLINDER HEAD COVER
a. Remove the 4 bolts and No. 2 cylinder head cover.
B. Remove the 4 ignition coils.
C. Disconnect the 2 PCV hoses from the cylinder head.
D. Remove the 9 bolts, 2 seal washers, 2 nuts, cylinder head cover and gasket.
9. 2ZZ-GE: REMOVE CYLINDER HEAD COVER
a. Remove the 4 bolts and No. 2 cylinder head cover.
B. Remove the ignition coils.
C. Disconnect the 2 PCV hoses from the cylinder head cover.

D. Remove the 2 nuts, bolt and disconnect the No. 3 ventilation hose from the No. 1 ventilation pipe.
E. Remove the No. 1 ventilation pipe and gasket.

F. Remove the 9 bolts, wire harness protector, cylinder head cover and gasket.
G. Remove the O-ring from the cylinder head cover.
10. SET NO. 1 CYLINDER TO TDC/COMPRESSION

a. Turn the crankshaft pulley, and align its groove with timing mark "0" of the timing chain cover.

B. Check that the point marks of the camshaft timing sprockets are in straight line on the timing chain cover surface as shown in the illustration.
If not, turn the crankshaft 1 revolution (360°) and align the marks.
11. REMOVE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY

a. Using SST and 2 nuts (width: 10 mm (0.25 inch)), remove the pulley bolt.
SST 09213-70010, 09330-00021
b. Remove the crankshaft pulley.

HINT: If necessary, remove the pulley with SST.

SST 09950-50012 (09951-05010, 09952-05010, 09953-05020, 09954-05020)
12. DISCONNECT CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR FROM TIMING CHAIN COVER
Remove the 2 bolts and crankshaft position sensor.
13. REMOVE DRIVE BELT TENSIONER
Remove the bolt, nut and drive belt tensioner.
14. REMOVE RH ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET
a. 1ZZ-FE: Remove the 3 bolts and mounting bracket.
B. 2ZZ-GE: Remove the 4 bolts and mounting bracket.

15. REMOVE CHAIN TENSIONER
Remove the 2 nuts and chain tensioner.
16. REMOVE WATER PUMP

17. 1ZZ-FE: REMOVE TIMING CHAIN COVER
a. Remove the 11 bolts and nut.
B. Using a torx wrench socket (E8), remove the stud bolt.
C. Remove the timing chain cover by prying the portions between the cylinder head and cylinder block with a screwdriver.

NOTICE: Be careful not to damage the contact surfaces of the timing chain cover, cylinder head and cylinder block.

18. 2ZZ-GE: REMOVE TIMING CHAIN COVER
a. Remove the 12 bolts.
B. Using a torx wrench socket (E8), remove the stud bolt.
C. Remove the timing chain cover and 2 gaskets.
19. REMOVE CRANK ANGLE SENSOR PLATE
20. REMOVE CHAIN TENSIONER SLIPPER
Remove the bolt and slipper.

21. REMOVE TIMING CHAIN AND CRANKSHAFT TIMING SPROCKET
If the crankshaft timing sprocket cannot be removed by hand, use 2 screwdrivers.

NOTICE: Position shop rags as shown to prevent damage.

22. REMOVE CHAIN VIBRATION DAMPER
Remove the 2 bolts and damper.

23. REMOVE VALVE TIMING CONTROL ASSEMBLY AND CAMSHAFT TIMING SPROCKET
Hold the hexagonal head wrench portion of the camshaft with a wrench, and remove the bolt, valve timing controller assembly and timing sprocket.

NOTICE:
- Be careful not to damage the cylinder head and valve lifter with the wrench.
- Do not disassemble the valve timing controller assembly.

INSPECTION
1. INSPECT TIMING CHAIN AND TIMING SPROCKETS

a. Using a vernier calipers, measure the length of 16 links with the chain dully stretched.
Maximum chain elongation: 122.6 mm (4.827 inch)
If the elongation is greater than maximum, replace the chain.

HINT: Make the same measurements pulling at 3 or more places selected at random.

B. Wrap the chain around the timing sprocket.

C. Using a vernier calipers, measure the timing sprocket diameter with the chain.

NOTICE: Vernier calipers must contact the chain rollers for measuring.

Minimum sprocket diameter (w/ Chain):
Camshaft 97.3 mm (3.831 inch)
Crankshaft 51.6 mm (2.031 inch)
If the diameter is less than minimum, replace the chain and sprockets.
2. INSPECT CHAIN TENSIONER SLIPPER AND VIBRATION DAMPER
Measure the chain tensioner slipper and vibration damper wears.
Maximum wear: 1.0 mm (0.039 inch)
If the wear is greater than maximum, replace the slipper and/or damper.

3. INSPECT CHAIN TENSIONER
a. Check that the plunger moves smoothly when the ratchet pawl is raised with your finger.
B. Release the ratchet pawl and check that the plunger is locked in place by the ratchet pawl and does not move when pushed with your finger.
4. INSPECT OIL JET

REPLACEMENT

HINT: There are 2 methods (A and B) to replace the oil seal which are as follows:

REPLACE CRANKSHAFT FRONT OIL SEAL
a. If timing chain cover is removed from cylinder block.
1. Using a screwdriver and a hammer, tap out the oil seal.

2. Using SST and a hammer, tap in a new oil seal until its surface is flush with the timing chain cover edge.
SST 09309-37010
3. Apply MP grease to the oil seal lip.
B. If timing chain cover is installed to the cylinder block.

1. Using a knife, cut off the oil seal lip.
2. Using a screwdriver, pry out the oil seal.

NOTICE: Be careful not to damage the crankshaft. Tape the screwdriver tip.

3. Using SST and a hammer, tap in the oil seal until its surface is flush with the timing chain cover edge.
SST 09309-37010

INSTALLATION
1. INSTALL VALVE TIMING CONTROLLER ASSEMBLY AND CAMSHAFT TIMING SPROCKET

a. Apply engine oil in the range from the tip of the intake camshaft to 16 mm from that tip.
B. Align the timing mark on the value timing controller assembly with the knock pin, and install the value timing controller assembly to the cam shaft.

NOTICE: Do not push valve timing controller assembly to the camshaft forcibly when installing it.

C. Align the knock pin hole in the cam shaft timing sprocket with the knock pin of the cam shaft, and exhaust the sprocket to the camshaft.
D. Temporarily install the timing sprocket bolt.

E. Hold the hexagon wrench head portion of the camshaft with a wrench, and tighten the timing sprocket bolt.
Torque:
1ZZ-FE 45 Nm (460 kgf-cm, 33 ft. Lbs.)
2ZZ-GE 54 Nm (551 kgf-cm, 40 ft. Lbs.)
2. SET NO. 1 CYLINDER TO TDC/COMPRESSION

a. Turn the hexagonal wrench head portion of the camshafts, and align the point marks of the camshaft timing sprockets.

B. Using a crankshaft pulley bolt, Turn the crankshaft and set the set key on the crankshaft upward.

3. INSTALL CHAIN VIBRATION DAMPER
Install the damper with the 2 bolts.
Torque:
1ZZ-FE 11 Nm(113 kgf-cm, 8 ft. Lbs.)
2ZZ-GE 20.5 Nm (209 kgf-cm, 15 ft. Lbs.)
4. INSTALL TIMING CHAIN AND CRANKSHAFT TIMING SPROCKET

a. Install the timing chain on the crankshaft timing sprocket with the yellow color link aligned with the timing mark on the crankshaft timing sprocket.

HINT: If necessary, install the sprocket with SST.

SST 09223-22010

b. 1ZZ-FE: Install the timing chain on the camshaft timing sprockets with the yellow color links aligned with the timing marks on the camshaft timing sprockets.
C. 2ZZ-GE: Install the timing chain on the camshaft timing sprockets with the orange color links aligned with the timing marks on the camshaft timing sprockets.

D. Check that the tension between the intake camshaft timing sprocket and crankshaft timing sprocket.
5. INSTALL CHAIN TENSIONER SLIPPER
a. Install the slipper with the bolt.
Torque:
1ZZ-FE 18.5 Nm (189 kgf-cm, 14 ft. Lbs.)
2ZZ-GE 20.5 Nm (209 kgf-cm, 15 ft. Lbs.)
b. Check that the slipper moves is caught on the cylinder head stopper.

NOTICE: DO not turn the crankshaft.

6. INSTALL CRANK ANGLE SENSOR PLATE
Install the plate with the "F" mark facing forward.

7. 1ZZ-FE: INSTALL TIMING CHAIN COVER AND WATER PUMP
a. Remove any old packing (FIPG) material and be careful not to drop any oil on the contact surfaces of the timing chain cover, cylinder head and cylinder block.
- Using a razor blade and a gasket scraper, remove all the old packing (FIPG) material from the gasket surfaces and sealing grooves.
- Thoroughly clean all components to remove all the loose material.
- Using a non-residue solvent, clean both sealing surfaces.
B. Apply seal packing to the timing chain cover as shown in the illustration.
Seal packing: Part No. 08826-00100 or equivalent
- Install a nozzle that has been cut to a 1.5 mm (0.16 - 0.20 inch) opening.

HINT: Avoid applying an excessive amount to the surface.

- Parts must be assembled within 3 minutes of application. Otherwise the material must be removed and reapplied.
- Immediately remove nozzle from the tube and reinstall cap.

C. Apply seal packing to 2 locations as shown in the illustration.
Seal packing: Part No. 08826-00080 or equivalent
- Install a nozzle that has been cut to a 1.5 mm (0.16 - 0.20 inch) opening.

HINT: Avoid applying an excessive amount to the surface.

- Parts must be assembled within 3 minutes of application. Otherwise the material must be removed and reapplied.
- Immediately remove nozzle from the tube and reinstall cap.

D. Install the timing chain cover, O-ring and water pump with the 17 bolts and nut. Uniformly tighten the bolts and nut in several passes.
Torque:
10 mm head:
9 Nm (92 kgf-cm, 80 inch lbs.) For C
13 Nm (133 kgf-cm, 10 ft. Lbs.) For A
11 Nm (113 kgf-cm, 8 ft. Lbs.) For others
12 mm head: 18.5 Nm (189 kgf-cm, 14 ft. Lbs.)

NOTICE:
- Pay attention not to wrap the chain and slipper over the chain cover seal line.
- After installing the chain cover, must install the mounting bracket and water pump within 15 minutes.

HINT: Each bolt length in indicated in the illustration.

A 45 mm (1.77 inch)
B 35 mm (1.38 inch)
C 30 mm (1.18 inch)
D 25 mm (0.98 inch)
e. Using a torx wench socket (E8), install the stud bolt.
Torque: 9.3 Nm (95 kgf-cm, 82 inch lbs.)
8. 2ZZ-E: INSTALL TIMING CHAIN COVER AND WATER PUMP

a. Remove any old packing (FIPG) material and be careful not to drop any oil on the contact surfaces of the timing chain cover, cylinder head and cylinder block.
- Using a razor blade and a gasket scraper, remove all the old packing (FIPG) material from the gasket surfaces and sealing grooves.
- Thoroughly clean all components to remove all the loose material.
- Using a non-residue solvent, clean both sealing surfaces.
B. Apply seal packing to the timing chain cover as shown in the illustration.
Seal packing: Part No. 08826-00100 or equivalent
- Install a nozzle that has been cut to a 1.5 mm opening.

HINT: Avoid applying an excessive amount to the surface.

- Parts must be assembled within 3 minutes of application. Otherwise the material must be removed and reapplied.
- Immediately remove nozzle from the tube and reinstall cap.
C. Install the 2 gasket to the timing chain cover as shown in the illustration.

D. Apply seal packing to 4 locations as shown in the illustration.
Seal packing: Part No. 08826-00080 or equivalent
- Install a nozzle that has been cut to a 4 - 5 mm (0.16 - 0.20 inch) opening.

HINT: Avoid applying an excessive amount to the surface.

- Parts must be assembled within 3 minutes of application. Otherwise the material must be removed and reapplied.
- Immediately remove nozzle from the tube and reinstall cap.
E. Install the timing chain cover, O-ring and water pump with the 19 bolts. Uniformly tighten the bolts in several passes.
Torque:
A: 21 Nm (214 kgf-cm, 15 ft. Lbs.)
B: 11 Nm (113 kgf-cm, 8 ft. Lbs.)
C: 9.0 Nm (92 kgf-cm, 80 inch lbs.)
D: 9.0 Nm (92 kgf-cm, 80 inch lbs.)

NOTICE:
- Pay attention not to wrap the chain and slipper over the chain cover seal line.
- After install the chain cover, must install the mounting bracket and water pump within 15 minutes.

F. Using a torx wrench socket (E8), install the stud bolt.
Torque: 9.3 Nm (95 kgf-cm, 82 inch lbs.)
9. 1ZZ-FE: INSTALL RH ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET
a. Apply seal packing to threads of the mounting bolt.
Seal packing: Part No. 08826-00080 or equivalent

HINT: Do not apply seal packing to 2 or 3 threads of the bolt end.

B. Install the mounting bracket with the 3 bolts.
Torque: 47 Nm (479 kgf-cm, 35 ft. Lbs.)
10. 2ZZ-GE: INSTALL RH ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET
Install the mounting bracket with the 4 bolts.
Torque: 49 Nm (500 kgf-cm, 36 ft. Lbs.)
11. INSTALL DRIVE BELT TENSIONER
a. Check the appearance before installing the drive belt tensioner.
If in case of having the oil leakage, crack, and etc, replace the drive belt tensioner.
B. Install the drive belt tensioner.
Torque:
Bolt
1ZZ-FE 69 Nm (704 kgf-cm, 51 ft. Lbs.)
2ZZ-E 100 Nm (1,020 kgf-cm, 74 ft. Lbs.)
Nut 29 Nm (296 kgf-cm, 21 ft. Lbs.)
c. Hook the tool on the hexagonal portion of the drive belt tensioner bracket and operate drive belt tensioner 3 times with full stroke.

HINT: Take 3 seconds or more for 1 full stroke.

12. INSTALL CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
Torque: 9.0 Nm (92 kgf-cm, 80 inch lbs.)

13. INSTALL CRANKSHAFT PULLEY
a. Clean the crankshaft pulley inside.
B. Align the pulley set key with the key groove of the pulley, and slide on the pulley.
C. Using SST and 2 nuts (width: 10 mm (0.25 inch), install the pulley bolt.
SST 09213-70010, 09330-00021
Torque:
1ZZ-FE 138 Nm (1,409 kgf-cm, 102 ft. Lbs.)
2ZZ-GE 120 Nm (1,200 kgf-cm, 87 ft. Lbs.)
14. INSTALL CHAIN TENSIONER
a. Check the chain tensioner.
B. Release the ratchet pawl, fully push in the plunger and apply the hook to the pin so that the plunger cannot spring out.
C. Insert the O-ring with your hand until it reaches to the chamfering position and install nut temporally. Then, by tightening the nut, insert the chain tensioner to the installation position.

HINT:
- In the case that the hook is released while pushing in, apply the hook again and push the tensioner in.
- Pay attention not to catch the O-ring as it is built in the chain tensioner previously.

D. Tighten the 2 nuts.
Torque: 9.0 Nm (92 kgf-cm, 80 inch lbs.)
15. SET CHAIN TENSION

a. Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise, and disconnect the plunger knock pin from the hook.

B. Turn the crankshaft clockwise, and check that the slipper is pushed by the plunger.

HINT: If the plunger does not spring out, press the slipper into the chain tensioner with a screwdriver or your finger so that the hook is released from the knock pin and the plunger springs out.

16. CHECK VALVE TIMING
a. Turn the crankshaft pulley, and align its groove with timing mark "0" of the timing chain cover.

NOTICE: Always turn the crankshaft clockwise.
B. Check that the point marks of the camshaft timing sprockets are in straight line on the timing chain cover surface as shown in the illustration.
If not, turn the crankshaft 1 revolution (360°) and align the marks.

17. 1ZZ-FE: INSTALL CYLINDER HEAD COVER
a. Remove any old packing (FIPG) material.

B. Apply seal packing to 2 locations as shown in the illustration.
Seal packing: Part No. 08826-00080 or equivalent
c. Install the gasket to the cylinder head cover.

HINT: Part must be assembled within 3 minutes of application. Otherwise the material must be remove and reapplied.

D. Install the cylinder head cover with the 9 bolts, 2 seal washers and 2 nuts.
Uniformly tighten the bolts and nuts, in the several passes, in the sequence shown.
Torque:
w/o washer 11 Nm (113 kgf-cm, 8 ft. Lbs.)
w/ washer 9.0 Nm (92 kgf-cm, 80 inch lbs.)
e. Connect the 2 PCV hoses to the cylinder head cover.
F. Install the ignition coil.
18. 2ZZ-E: INSTALL CYLINDER HEAD COVER

a. Remove any old packing (FIPG) material.

HINT: When FIPG on the head cover gasket side cannot be eliminated completely, replace the gasket.

B. Apply seal packing to 2 locations as shown in the illustration.
Seal packing: Part No. 08826-00080 or equivalent
c. Install the gasket to the cylinder head cover.

HINT: Part must be assembled within 3 minutes of application. Otherwise the material must be remove and reapplied.

D. Install a new O-ring to the cylinder head cover.
E. Install the cylinder head cover and wire harness protector with three bolts. Uniformly tighten the bolts, in the several passes, in the sequence shown.
Torque: 10 Nm (100 kgf-cm, 7 ft. Lbs.)
f. Connect the 2 PCV hoses to the cylinder head cover.

G. Install a new gasket and No. 1 ventilation pipe with 2 nuts and bolt.
Torque:
Nut 10 Nm (100 kgf-cm, 7 ft. Lbs.)
Bolt 25 Nm (255 kgf-cm, 18 ft. Lbs.)
h. Connect the No. 3 ventilation hose to the No. 1 ventilation pipe.
I. Install the ignition coil.

19. INSTALL RH ENGINE MOUNTING INSULATOR
a. 1ZZ-FE: Install the RH engine mounting insulator with the 4 bolts and 2 nuts.
Torque: 52 Nm (530 kgf-cm, 38 ft. Lbs.)
b. 2ZZ-GE: Install the RH engine mounting insulator with the 5 bolts and 2 nuts.
Torque: 52 Nm (530 kgf-cm, 38 ft. Lbs.)
20. INSTALL PS PUMP
a. Install the PS pump with the 2 through bolts and nuts.
Torque: 36 Nm (370 kgf-cm, 27 ft. Lbs.)
b. Install the PS pump pulley with the pulley nut.
C. Connect the PS oil pressure switch connector.
21. INSTALL GENERATOR AND DRIVE BELT
22. INSTALL RH ENGINE UNDER COVER
23. INSTALL RH FRONT WHEEL
24. FILL WITH ENGINE COOLANT
25. INSTALL FRONT FENDER APRON SEAL AND UPPER RADIATOR SUPPORT SEAL
26. START ENGINE AND CHECK FOR COOLANT LEAKS

____________________________________

I hope this is helpful. Let me know if you have problems or other questions.

Take care,
Joe

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Tuesday, October 16th, 2018 AT 6:22 PM

SPYNTRAK

MEMBER
36 POSTS

Thank you for the information. Now that I installed the timing chain when I go and turn on the car it starts off at a high RPM 2000 RPM actually. Then as it's heating up to temperature there's a there starts to begin a clicking noise coming from the valve cover. Where do I need helping is where could it be coming from here's a little video of it

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Wednesday, October 24th, 2018 AT 4:01 PM

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
109,724 POSTS

HI and thanks for using 2carpros.com

The engine sounds like it is running good, just the idle issue and the tick. Have you driven the vehicle since the work was done? The computer may have to relearn different components and it could take a few miles.

Next, are you certain there are no engine vacuum leaks? It's very easy to leave a hose off when doing as much work as you have already done. That will cause an idle issue.

Here is a link that shows how to check for vacuum leaks.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

I also noticed that you have a cold air intake. Make sure all the connections are tight at the throttle body.

The ticking sounds like a lifter has collapsed or is collapsing. Are you using the correct viscosity oil in the engine? Also, is the oil clean and full?

One last questions, in the video, I heard you say "it does it itself". Is the engine idle speed looping up and down? Also, let me know if the check engine light is staying on.

Let me know.

Joe

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Wednesday, October 24th, 2018 AT 6:28 PM

SPYNTRAK

MEMBER
36 POSTS

No I haven't the reason is because of the ticking noise coming from the valve cover, I didn't want to damage or possibly already damaged any of my he components inside the engine. There was a leak coming from the oil ventilation connected to the valve cover(fixed). Yes I double checked all connections are tight and yes I changed the oil about 1000 miles ago. Yes the idle is looping up and down but there's no check engine light, that weird to me.

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Thursday, October 25th, 2018 AT 3:05 PM

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
109,724 POSTS

Hi again.

The idle issue may be fixed by driving. It sounds like the idle air control solenoid needs relearned. That should happen with driving.

As far as the noise, I understand your concern. Can you let me know if you replaced the chain tensioner and guide? Also, if you have an automotive stethoscope, see if you can determine if in fact the noise is coming from the top (valve cover) or the timing chain cover (near where the tensioner is located)

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Thursday, October 25th, 2018 AT 6:51 PM

SPYNTRAK

MEMBER
36 POSTS

Yes, I did replace the tension-er and guides and all three sprockets. I do have a auto stethoscope, it is a bit tricky because it sounds like if it is coming from the middle part of the valve cover but when I moved the stethoscope a little bit lower close to the fuel injector sounds louder. I also moved the stethoscope on to the fuel line and it has the same sound and it has the same volume as it did when I had it on the lower part of the valve cover. I test drive it yesterday and when I accelerate it sounds like it is sucking in air and does not really have power to it and it overheated on me coming from the water pump.

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Monday, November 5th, 2018 AT 2:00 PM

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
109,724 POSTS

If you hear a vacuum noise, have you checked for a leak? Also, recheck to make sure the air inlet tube is attached properly. One other thing. Can you tell aprox where the vacuum sound may be coming from? The idea that is overheated makes me question a few things such as timing, a plugged catalytic converter (which can make a hissing sound). You are certain the timing is correct?

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Monday, November 5th, 2018 AT 7:12 PM

SPYNTRAK

MEMBER
36 POSTS

The overheating found my problem replaced water pump, the vacuum leak also fixed but what concerns me is that clicking noise. I do get a check engine light with code P1349. Also what if my timing is off how do I go about adjusting it to have it on the right timing?

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Monday, November 5th, 2018 AT 8:21 PM

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
109,724 POSTS

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros. Com.

The code indicates a problem with timing. See picture 1.

Now this can be caused by a few things. There is an oil control valve which could be restricted, a problem with the Variable Valve timing controller, or simply the cam timing is incorrect. Take a look at picture 2.

Since you were into the cam timing, that is where I would start. To do this, you need to follow the directions I listed above. I have a feeling you are off by one tooth on a cam sprocket and it is causing the noise, or something is blocking oil pressure to the oil control valve.

Let me know if you have other questions.

Joe

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Monday, November 5th, 2018 AT 8:51 PM

SPYNTRAK

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36 POSTS

I was wondering could it be a broken lifter that is making that knocking noise?

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Tuesday, November 6th, 2018 AT 12:14 PM

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
109,724 POSTS

Welcome back:
Honestly, it sounds like it is starved for oil. If you had a broken lifter, it would make a lot of noise, but also it would most likely have a misfire. Although noisy, it looks to be running smoothly.

With that in mind, we need to check the oil control valve. First, I am going to supply the directions for checking it on the vehicle. Picture 1 correlates with these directions.

_______________________________
CAMSHAFT TIMING OIL CONTROL VALVE

ON-VEHICLE INSPECTION

INSPECT OIL CONTROL VALVE RESISTANCE
a. Remove the No. 2 cylinder head cover.

B. 2ZZ-GE:
Disconnect the 2 PCV hoses.

C. Disconnect the oil control valve connector.

D. Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the terminals.
Resistance: 6.9-7.9 Ohms at 20 °C (68 °F)
If the resistance is not as specified, replace the valve.

E. Reconnect the oil control valve connector.
F. Reinstall the V-bank cover.

_______________________________
Of you find it is bad, here are the directions for replacement. All remaining pictures correlate with these directions.

CAMSHAFT TIMING OIL CONTROL VALVE

Camshaft Timing Oil Control Valve

REMOVAL

1. REMOVE NO.2 CYLINDER HEAD COVER

2. 2ZZ-GE:
DISCONNECT 2 PCV HOSES, UPPER FRONT FENDER APRONSEAL AND UPPER RADIATOR SUPPORT SEAL

3. 2ZZ-GE:
REMOVE GENERATOR

4. 2ZZ-GE:
REMOVE NO.1 VENTILATION PIPE
a. Remove the 2 nuts, bolt and gasket.

HINT: At the time of installation, please refer to the following items. Use a new gasket.

B. Remove the hose clamp and disconnect No.1 ventilation pipe.

5. 1ZZ-FE:
REMOVE CAMSHAFT TIMING OIL CONTROL VALVE
a. Disconnect the oil control valve connector.

B. Remove the bolt and oil control valve.

Torque: 7.5 N.M (80 kgf. Cm, 66 in. Lbf)

c. Remove the O-ring from the oil control valve.

HINT: At the time of installation, please refer to the following items. Use a new O-ring.

6. 2ZZ-GE:
REMOVE 2 CAMSHAFT TIMING OIL CONTROL VALVES
a. Disconnect the oil control valve connector.

B. Remove the 2 bolts and oil control valves.

Torque: 8.5 N.M (87 kgf. Cm, 75 in. Lbf)

c. Remove the O-ring from the each oil control valve.

HINT: At the time of installation, please refer to the following items. Use a new O-ring.

INSTALLATION
Installation is in the reverse order of removal.

___________________________________________

Please check that. Also, it isn't uncommon for them to get plugged, so pay attention to the oil gallery and the oil control valve.

It truly sounds like an oil related issue (or lack of oil)

Let me know what you find, I have a feeling that is the issue.

Take care and good luck.

Joe
PS: Although it is hard to tell from a recording, I wouldn't run the engine until we determine the issue.

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Tuesday, November 6th, 2018 AT 5:42 PM

SPYNTRAK

MEMBER
36 POSTS

You are right got the clicking noise to go away but now the code 1349 keeps illuminating. I cleaned both ocv and the filters, I drove the car but seems to be lacking in power. It does not drive the same as before the timing chain replacement.

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Tuesday, November 13th, 2018 AT 3:09 PM

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
109,724 POSTS

Hi.

I have a feeling either there is still something blocking oil pressure to the VVT actuator or the part was damaged due to lack of oil. If the VVT isn't advancing timing, you will lack power.

I have attached the entire diagnostic process for the code you mentioned. See the pictures attached. If you read through the following, everywhere the is "image open" is where the procedure was located. I placed them in the same order as they were listed.

CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION

DTC Detecting Condition
image open

VVT system controls the intake valve timing to proper timing in response to driving condition.

ECM controls OCV(Oil Control Valve) to make the intake valve timing properly, and, oil pressure controlled with OCV is supplied to the VVT controller, and then, VVT controller changes relative position between the camshaft and the crankshaft.

Wiring Diagram

INSPECTION PROCEDURE

HINT:
- If DTC P1349 is displayed, check left bank VVT system circuit.
- Read freeze frame data using TOYOTA hand-held tester or OBD II scan tool. Because freeze frame records the engine conditions when the malfunction is detected, when troubleshooting it is useful for determining whether the vehicle was running or stopped, the engine warmed up or not, the air-fuel ratio lean or rich, etc. At the time of the malfunction.

Steps 1 - 2
imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

Steps 3 - 6
imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

Step 7
imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

TOYOTA hand-held tester:

Step 1
imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

Steps 2 - 3
imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

Steps 4 - 7 (Part 1)
imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

Step 7 (Part 2)
imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

OBD II scan tool (excluding TOYOTA hand-held tester):

Let me know if this helps.

Joe

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