Shut off while driving?

Hi,

To set the timing manually, the engine should be running. Does anything happen now? Is it possible for you to record it cranking and upload it for me to hear? I should be able to tell if the timing is off by hearing it.

Since it isn't running, you could check to see if the distributor is installed correctly. On the crankshaft pulley, you will see timing marks. There should be a pointer or indicator on the timing chain cover as well. You need to align the marks to 0° see pic below. At that point, you can remove the distributor cap and confirm the rotor is pointing toward the number 1 spark plug wire. If it isn't, the distributor will need to be removed and reinstalled so that happens.

At that point, the engine should start. As far as using a timing light, I believe ignition adjustments are done by the PCM.

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe

See pic below.

Got the timing chain on and manually set the timing or so I think, this is how I did it I took the distributor out pull the number one spark plug and then I turn the crankshaft to 0° on the mark on the compression turn I then put the distributor back in make sure that it was pointing and number one for a plug put the spark plug back in , went to crank it nothing. When I put the distributor back in, I had to take a long screwdriver and turn it a little bit so it would fit on top of that center. Like I said before, I replaced the battery. It's good the fuel pump is coming on; spark plugs are good the wires are good this is the brand-new distributor out of the box. I read somewhere about resetting the oil pump but I don't know how to do that unless when I start the screwdriver were distributor goes that's somehow reset the oil pump but I don't know and oh yeah I unhooked The wire on firewall and I hooked it back up after I tried to crank it. Any thoughts because I'm out of ideas.

If you had it at 0° TDC and the rotor pointed at the number 1 cylinder spark plug on the distributor cap, the only thing that could be wrong is if it is 180° off. If you turn the crankshaft, you'll see that the distributor turns at a different rate than the crankshaft. Turn the crankshaft until the rotor reaches its original setting, and the crank is at 0° TDC. Remove the distributor and turn the rotor 180° and reinstall it. You will find that by turning the crankshaft, it will eventually return to TDC, pointing at the number 1 cylinder.

As for the oil pump, there is no reset for it. The purpose of turning it with a long screwdriver is to align it with where the distributor will sit. The distributor is notched at the bottom where it attaches to the pump.

Let me know if that helps.

Take care,

Joe

I did that and tried to crank it, here's your video.

Hi,

It sounded like it tried to start a couple of times. Are you certain the fuel pressure is within spec? Did the new distributor come with a new ignition control module?

Do me a favor. See if it will start if you use starting fluid. If it does, then we know it is a fuel-related issue.

Let me know the results.

Joe

No I'm not certain on the fuel pressure, I don't have anything to test it that I know of and yes, the new distributor came with a new ignition control module. I sent 2 videos where I had sprayed starting fluid and the second time it shot a hell of a flame out from under the hood but no damage. Gas was originally syphoned out and I just put fresh couple of gallons in.

Could it be a bad ignition switch, my steering wheel hasa lot of side to side play, has for years and sometimes the key doesn't turn as easily as other times.

I also have ordered this engine coolant sensor because and I put the multimeter interested it it was getting 5.1 bolts, but I was getting a zero on the ohms. From what I read this could keep the motor from cranking, correct?

If it is shooting flames from the throttle body, we still have a timing issue. When the timing chain was installed, were you certain the timing was correct? See pic below.

Additionally, the coolant temperature sensor can cause a no-start if it is significantly off. In other words, if the sensor indicates it's -40°F, it will dump fuel to make it start in the cold. The opposite can happen as well.

If you get flames from the throttle body, that tells me a cylinder is firing with the intake valve open. It seems there is a timing issue.,

Question: Did the timing chain break or jump off time, causing the engine to stall on you? If I recall, it is considered an interference engine. We may need to do a compression test if that has happened.

Let me know.

Joe

See pic below.

It's not shooting flames but that one time. Video is of trying today and the timing chain photo shows it was not broken, just a lot of slack and it was replaced just as it came off . The "dots" were definitely lined up. It driving fine the motor shut off I coasted off the road 30 seconds later I had recranked it and threw another hundred yards and it did it again and it hasn't cranked since. I don't know if I had a necessary tools for any kind of compression test or how to do it but I'll do my best just tell me what to do.

Update, this morning I reset the timing and put the new coolant temperature sensor on. Then I tried to crank it and this video is of that failed attempt. No flames and a lot of starter fluid. What now,the compression you was talking about ? I don't have any experience in that area but I can learn.Is there something I can make till I get to town ?

To me it sounds like the firing order is not right, the engine has compression so don't worry about that. So, I would remove the number 1 spark plug. crank the engine by bumping the start while you have your finger or compression gauge in the spark plug hole. As the timing mark comes up the compression will come up, (one time out of the two times the mark comes up). Once the timing mark is on the TDC remove the distributor cap to see if it is pointing to number 1, please go over this guide as well to help.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/comprehensive-guide-on-installing-an-automotive-ignition-distributor-step-by-step-process

Please go over this guide and get back to us.

I've done this 2/3 times,and without a timing light or any help it is difficult to put my fingers in spark plug to feel compression. The only thing I can see that I might be doing wrong is the pulley has 2 marks on it so I have been using the second one to line it up at 0 degrees, should I be using the first line instead ?

Yes, I would use the first line. You can use a compression gauge to make sure you are on the right stroke. Then when you think you have it correct make sure the ignition rotor is pointing to the number 1 cylinder.

Also one other thing is what wire an I supposed to disconnect before setting the timing. Everything online says it is located inside under the passenger side carpet but for whatever reason my year truck doesn't follow everyone else model and it is hard to go by the manual because it has mistakes in it. The only wire that's close to the ones I have found described is a single line fuse that's located back near the firewall ?

The timing lead being disconnected will not make the engine not start, is that still the case? Does the engine run now, have you reinstalled the distributor?

Done everything as you said and well the included video tells the tale

Hmmm, the engine sounds good, have you tried starting fluid to see if that makes a difference? Also, I would recheck to see if the system has spark. Please go over this video, we must be missing something.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lXLJbuAZ4CE&t

To confirm, with the #1 cylinder on the compression stroke the ignition rotor is pointing to the #1 terminal on the distributor cap?

Yes it is. The only thing different I did this time was I used the first line on the pulley marker instead of the second like you said. Could it be the fuel pressure regulator or the ignition switch that's the only thing I haven't looked at.

Yep, if we find the system that is failing we can fix it. Starting fluid and a spark check can do this.

There is spark at #1 plug and starting fluid did not help.

If you have compression and fuel with spark it only leaves spark at the wrong time or the exhaust system is clogged up. Check for a potato stuffed into the exhaust pipe :)

I checked, no obstructions, The truck has straight pipes so I can see all the way. when I try to crank it I pressed the gas there's like a whoop sound.

Can you remove the distributor cap and then crank the engine over to make sure the rotor turns? The whoop sounds can be because the camshaft timing is off or the ignition timing. Can you get a video from under the hood while cranking?

Can you get me a date with Mariah Carey? I'll do the best I could but as I have said I'm alone. You want a shot of the motor trying to crank from under the hood with the distributor off gotcha.

Sorry talk typing put in what they felt like, I'll get you the video in the morning.

lol,, I don't know if I can work that kind of magic!

I'm working on getting you this video as I speak be about an hour. I hope you see or hear something to solve all this mess.

For some reason my video won't upload, never happened before but I wanted to say I tried cranking and still the same, distributor rotor does turn. Here's a question.... I drain all the gas out about 2 weeks ago and I then bought 2 1/2 gallons of fresh gas and poured it in, could it be there's not enough gas in the truck, is that a possibility ? There's only the 2 1/2 gallons in it, the dial on the dash shoes gas but I was thinking that with everything else maybe there's not enough.

Yes, the fuel can be an issue, but starting fluid should have made a difference .

So with the rotor definitely moving where am I at now ? I'm still having an issue uploading videos.

To load a video it take a while over the airwaves, you can make the video shorter will help.

Still working on d/l the video but I wanted to let you know I have a code now. First time since April but I got it off using the d and it blink 12 3 times and then blink 3 times then 4 and done that sequence 3 times. So what am I supposed to replace now and does that code 34 make sense to you? Could it be I have finally got the information I need ? I'm not going to touch nothing until I hear from you.

Yes! this code is

34 - Map sensor signal out of range, low

So I would try a new MAP sensor, or make sure the sensor is hooked up with the vacuum line, also, this can carbon foul the spark plugs which will not allow the engine to run as well. Lets remove them to see what they look like, if they are carbon fouled replaced them.

Sorry but I NEED HELP, I'M TRYING TO SEE IF the map sensor in the photo I sent will work on my truck, I understand it's simple but I somehow get confused.1991 Chevrolet C1500 w/Silverado package and 6 cylinder 4.3 motor. I sent the video to see if my uploading was working now or not.I know your thinking I'm an idiot but at least I'm honest.

Did you check the spark plugs?

Yep and I got to order some when I order the sensor.Is that the right one ?

I have installed the new map sensor and replaced the plugs,for the 2/3 time and still nothing. I don't know what is wrong and things are getting expensive with everything I have bought.

We must be missing something, lets go over it again, the engine has compression correct? Then check for spark at more than one cylinder, then see if it runs on starting fluid.

All 6 plugs have spark and starter fluid isn't having an effect and the can is new. Could the EGR valve be clogged ? What about the Iac valve and tp sensor could they be the culprit ?