It's the thermostat that controls coolant temperature. The sensor just reports what that temperature is.
You have to list the exact diagnostic fault code number. There are over a dozen fault codes related to the coolant temperature sensor, and they mean very different things. Also, please be aware no fault code in any system on any brand of car ever says to replace a part or that one is bad. They only indicate the circuit or system that needs further diagnosis, or the unacceptable operating condition. You can use this list:
https://www.2carpros.com/trouble_codes/obd2
to see the code definitions, or I can interpret them for you.
Well over 99 percent of problems with the coolant temperature sensor circuit end up being caused by wiring or connector terminal problems. To my knowledge, only Ford had a rash of sensor failures in the early to mid '90s. For all other car brands, temperature sensors don't fail very often.
The two most common problems that will result in a fault code being set, and the Engine Computer turning on the Check Engine light in response, is the connector for the sensor is unplugged, or one of its wires is shorted to the engine or some other ground. Similar to being unplugged, one of the connector terminals could be spread, causing it to not make good contact with its mating terminal in the sensor. Any of those things can be intermittent, but the fault code will remain in memory even if the problem stops acting up. On older car models, if the problem cleared up momentarily, the Check Engine light would be "latched" on, and you had to turn the ignition switch off, then restart the engine to get the light to turn off. The code still remains in memory. That may be different in a car as new as yours.
Again, on older models, if the coolant temperature sensor was unplugged or had a bad connection in the connector, the Engine Computer couldn't know engine temperature, so, to avoid more trouble, the computer would turn on the radiator fan any time the engine was running, and on most models, even if the ignition switch was in the "run" position without the engine running. That was a fail-safe strategy just in case the engine was getting too hot. It is also a real common test we do on some cars. If we unplug the coolant temperature sensor while the engine is idling in the shop, we expect to see the radiator fan start running. That is quick proof that entire system is working properly. Along with the fault code, this is a valuable observation you can make.
Thursday, November 14th, 2019 AT 4:53 PM