The car accelerates in P or N (1900 RPM)

Tiny
STUXNET97
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 HYUNDAI SONATA
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 134,000 MILES
Hello, my car has just come out of a year-long exhausted repair, we are talking about big heads, pistons, new OEM sensors, timing belt, tension-er, oil, spark plugs, OEM coils, MAF new, Etc.

The moment I start the car it goes up to 1500 rpm's to 1900 rpm's (parking), then if I change the gear to "D", the revolutions go down to 900 rpm's. And I can drive normal. Then I put the car back in P when parking and climb up to 1500 to 1900 rpm's.

The same happens in neutral, the revolutions go up.


Now read this: When I turn on the car and the revolutions go up I must hit (accelerate) the accelerator quickly and lower to 1000 rpm's. (The right thing).

Fault found: I could find that the throttle spring is too tight and the throttle does not return to its position, so I lubricated it with WD40 and it worked a bit.

Note:
I also cleaned the EGR valve (It was very dirty), but it is still the same. The IAC valve is new and I can hear it working. One sensor that did not change was the "throttle butterfly".

The auto does not give scrap errors, but I have not reviewed readings nor do I have one right now.

I have no loss of power, the car works amazing is a powerful machine no longer has a catalyst.

It has a cold air intake and the MAF post, so I put the original filter box back but the problem is the same, so this is discarded.

The acceleration body is clean.

Questions:
1. Should I replace the EGR valve?
2. Is it a vacuum problem, if so, what hoses do you share with the transmission?
3. Any suggestions this sometimes scares and it seems that the problem must be some nonsense?


I have included a video to illustrate, thank you.
Wednesday, December 20th, 2017 AT 5:38 AM

3 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,536 POSTS
Nice work on the video they always help. Can we try removing the throttle cable from the throttle body to see if it is holding the butterfly open? Next remove the vacuum line from the EGR valve to see if the vacuum control is messed up causing the valve to pull on at idle.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-idles-too-high

Please run some tests and get back to us.

Cheers, Ken
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Thursday, December 21st, 2017 AT 10:35 AM
Tiny
STUXNET97
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
Hello, I tried with the car on by disconnecting the EGR valve and the revolutions increased even more. So again I connected them and it seems that the valve works well, I show you a video.

You can also see how the spring causes the accelerator not to return to its initial position. I tried to dismantle it to give the spring another turn, but it is very difficult and I do not know if it is correct.

Should I lubricate the cable?

All this is programming of the ECM, I SORRY, forget to mention that this car was repaired the computer because it did not send signal to the coils.
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Friday, December 22nd, 2017 AT 7:03 AM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,536 POSTS
Thanks for the video it really helps. I don't think the problem is the EGR although you might want to test it anyway.

Here is a video

https://youtu.be/DqUCbbKdWf4

It like like the cable it to tight to the throttle body can you disconnect the cable to see how it idles?

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Friday, December 22nd, 2017 AT 4:22 PM

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