Sunroof shade not closing and unresponsive sunroof buttons

Hello,

Thanks for the video it really helps. here are the sun roof wiring diagrams and a guide to help check for power, but it looks like the smart motor has gone out. here are instructions on how to change it out:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

What worked for you? I have this same problem with my 2013 xlt

It looks like they came back to read the post but did not respond so I assume it did. The wiring diagrams above show how the system works and how to change the motor out. Please let me know how it goes.

I have the same exact problem described on our 2015 Explorer Sport. Can you please provide the instructions for initialization after the repair is completed?
Also, is there a separate motor for the shade and the glass, or is the just one motor for both?

Here is the repair instructions and relearn procedures for the sun roof.

Roof Opening Panel Motor Initialization — Sliding Glass Panel
General Procedure

image WARNING: Keep objects and body parts clear of the glass panel when carrying out the initialization procedure. During the initialization procedure, the glass panel closes with high force and cannot detect objects in its path. Failure to follow this instruction may result in serious personal injury.

NOTE: A new front sliding glass panel motor will only move towards the VENT position and must be initialized.

NOTE: The roof opening panel motor(s) must be initialized when repairs are carried out on any part of the roof opening panel system, including whenever

the roof opening sliding glass or power shade motor has been removed from the roof opening panel system.
the roof opening panel glass has been removed from the roof opening panel system.
the roof opening panel assembly has been removed from the vehicle.
a new roof opening sliding glass or power shade motor has been installed.
a new roof opening panel glass has been installed.
a new roof opening panel assembly has been installed.
NOTE: The driver or passenger front door must be open during the entire procedure.

Open the driver or passenger front door.
Turn the ignition to the ON position.
Complete the following within 5 seconds:
Cycle the ignition to the OFF position and then back to the ON position.
Push the TILT switch for less than one second and release.
Push and hold the TILT switch until full glass open and closed is witnessed (this could take up to 20 seconds to start).
Release the switch and verify successful initialization by carrying out one-touch open, one-touch close and one-touch vent operations.

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Thanks Ken, this helps a lot. Can you please provide provide an image of the parts listed in the 4th photo (the one showing the motor)? Thank you.

Here is the part numbers for the motors:

Motor BB5Z15790A $178.00

Can you please shoot a quick video with your phone so we can see what's going on? that would be great. You can upload it here with your response.

Good evening. I have a similar problem, except my moonroof is stuck all the way open/back. I have checked and changed the fuses. I put my switch in another Explorer and it worked just fine. I have changed the motor. I cannot get the motor to initialize. I’m assuming because the glass is all the way back. Any tips?

Do you have power at the violet/red wire at the controller or #F8 fuse (key on) in the fuse panel under the hood? This guide will help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens.

I’m having the same issue with my wife’s 14 limited. After some preliminary diagnostics,
-both fuses are good
-have 12 volts on terminal 1 at the glass smart motor
-ground on terminal 4
-only showing roughly 4.5 volts on terminal 5 and 6 when I press the switch accordingly

I guess my question is, is this correct? I’m familiar with the fact that some electronics use a 5 volt reference. But just unsure of this. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Good morning,

I attached the wiring diagram for you to view.

No, the voltage is too low. Looks like you may need the control module as there is not enough power for the motors to work.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

There is a second fuse as well I highlighted the wire for you.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Roy

I’m having the same issue with my 2015 Explorer Sport. I initialized and was able to get the shade all the way forward but if I retract it again then I cannot get it to come forward without initialization. So if I am going to replace any motors do I need to replace both motors or just the glass motor?

Replace both motors or just the glass one?

They don't say, I would replace the shade motor and try it, just don't fully reassemble and do the second one if it doesn't work correctly.

I have a ford 2018 expedition. I repaired the guides and cables but after the motors won’t initialize. Brought it to ford and they claimed the motors need to be replaced but they functioned fine before the guide broke. Doesn’t make sense that the motor not initializing would be caused by a bad motor. Any ideas or incite? They also recommended a new track which has nothing to do with the motor programming

On the 2018 Expedition (and all modern Ford panoramic roof systems):

The sunroof motor has a Hall-effect position sensor inside it. After any mechanical repair, the motor must run the glass through its full travel to re-learn its open/close limits. If the motor senses abnormal resistance or the glass-track is not perfectly aligned, it aborts initialization.

When initialization aborts repeatedly, the scan tool shows “motor failed to initialize,” and many techs misinterpret that as “motor is bad.” But in reality, if the track guides or timing cables were not perfectly synchronized, the motor will hit resistance and REFUSE to learn its stops. That’s why it won’t initialize, not because the motor is weak. I hope this helps :)

Ok ya I had a hard time believing the motor just went bad. What’s the best way to get it to reinitialize? I have tracks aligned properly but when I do the button sequence it will not go through the process.

If the rails are out of sync by one tooth, the process will not begin. This is BY FAR the #1 cause after guide/cable replacement. You must remove the glass, pull the front sliders fully forward, and ensure both sides are exactly even. Please double check this and let me know if this is done and it still wont start.