After replacing timing belt one cylinder stops working/error codes P1336 and P1337

Yeah, that sounds so close to the solution. I hope it it what it is. I am an electronics engineer. I will check it myself. The mechanics from Chile sucks. One more thing I recently changed the crankshaft sensor, and now I was able to go to more rpm's with no issue, but still it has the same problem after 3,500 rpm's I used to lose a cylinder.

Tomorrow I will check the wiring and let you know. Thank for helping me out. I have been having these issue for a year. It is one year of frustration. It sucks. I hope best for tomorrow. Figure crossed.

Thank you again!

Hi Ken,

You have been really helpful in every step. I read all the instructions and followed it. The diagnosis is as below

1) I checked the wiring right till the connector that goes to the ECU.
2) Even the wiring was okay. I replaced it with a new one and now it has new wiring.
3) I checked the output voltage of the sensor which is of course an AC signal and it reaches till 5 volts or above corresponding to the acceleration. This voltage reached until the connector it the ecu without any issue.
4) I tested the car, still it has absolutely the same issue as before. One of the cylinder of the engine stops suddenly as soon as I go above 2,500 RPM's. Below 2,500 RPM's I have no problems whatsoever.
5) So when the cylinders stop the engine starts shaking, still running, but loosing the power.
6) After that to get it normal, I have to turn off the car completely and restart it, and the everything works just fine.
7) Again if I go above 2,500 rpm's, one cylinder stops.
8) When I am on a highway and my car is on the down steep, of course due to gravitational force it goes by itself, and in that scenario if I do not accelerate and the car goes itself above 2,500 RPM's then at that time no cylinders misfires/stops.
9) At the same time when I am on a down steep and the car is above 2,500 RPM's by itself and if I accelerate little bit then one cylinder stops.
10) Since I have been having this issue since one year and no mechanic has been able to fix it, I have started my own diagnosis. So I have learnt a trick to avoid this. What I do is I just accelerate but not in an constant manner, so to say like ( imagine my foot is on the pedal) zuuuuuuuu.(One second break) zuuuuuuuu.(One second break). Zuuuuuu. And so on. In this way the car does not stop but my foot pains so much after an hour. Of course that is not the solution.

I do not know Ken. This is all I could give you the information. I am frustrated like crazy.

Please please please help me.

Thank you!

Regards.

Hi Ken,

You mean to say I should follow all the grounds that car has. Or only one that has relation with crankshaft sensor. I have a question:

1) Do you think it can also be because of the ECU?
2) Do you think it can be the Cambelt ( that also I changed right before this all started)?

If you above question's answer are no then I will stop worrying about Cambelt and ECU.

Thanks Again Ken,

Please walk me out of this messy problem.

Hi Ken. I am replying quite late, but did the revision of timing belt with the other mechanic and according to him the timing belt was not installed properly. So he did install it properly and now I still have the same issue. After 2,500 rpm, the cylinder stops working. I do not know what to do.

Can you please help me?

Sure Ken, I will do it. As I have mentioned before, that this problem when the cylinder stops working after 2,500 rpm's, goes back to work normally after I turn off the engine completely and restart the car. So do you still think it can be the spring in the valve? Please do not think that I am questioning you. I just have this minor doubt. Because I think that if the spring is compromised then the problem should not be associated with restarting the engine. Please help.

Cheers.

Yes I would say the same. What would say about the multi-functional injection relay? Do you think it can be the culprit. Today I will put the signal from crankshaft sensor on oscilloscope to study it.

Regards

Do you know how to to identify an injection driver? What is the name of the IC. I can replace it. I am an electronics engineer. Should be okay for me.

Hello there, yes I can send you the video. We have tested with a multi-meter at the output of each injector so what happens is after 2,500 rpm's, one of the injectors gets 12 volts on both terminal making potential difference of 0 volts and hence the injector stops working. All is see that the culprit is the ECU.

The waveform I have sent is from the output of crankshaft sensor. Which looks okay and as I accelerate, I see that the frequency increases means to day that the wave form has the same amplitude but the waveform squises.( Obviously). If you take a look at the video I do see some interference in the waveform, I was expecting it to be pure. Anyways, the wire harness to the injector looks okay. And I will put the oscilloscope on the output of the injectors as you asked me to do. Even though the result that we got from multi-meter was that the injector gets 12 volts on both terminal and hence it stops working, which looks like the ECU injection drive Bosch 30566 is the one which can make this happen. What do you say?