Sub frame bushings sizing?

Was trying to remove sub-frame bushing in the rear of the sub frame, driver side. Not the one closest to the firewall but the one closest to the transmission.
The bolt broke. There is nothing wrong with the bushing itself, I was simply wanting to loosen it bit to replace the one behind it, now I have a good bushing with a busted bolt.
The upper part of the bolt is in the screw inside the body, there is a bit of an access hole above the place where the bolt screws into the body, part of the bolt is in the metal part of the bushing assembly the other part in the body where it screws in.
What would be the best way to get that out? I have an idea in mind.
The car is up on ramps so I cannot remove the tire for better access.
The rear bushing on that side I've got a brand new one in and properly torqued but it isn't apreading out enough to catch the sub-frame so if I lower the car the sub-frame is wanting to slide right off the new bushing hence there is no support on that side but for the very front bushing up next to the grill and front bumper.

Hello,

The front suspension/engine cradle uses multiple body mounts/subframe bushings. The rear cradle/body mounts can be different from the middle/front positions, depending on exact position and service kit. TO remove the broken bolt you will need to support the cradle and remove the remaining bolts to be able to lower the subframe so you can get at the broken bolt to remove it.

For the broken bolt, the safest repair is usually:

Support the subframe with a floor jack and wood block

Do not rely on the ramps alone. Place a jack under the subframe near the broken mount area so the cradle cannot drop or shift.

Remove tension from the broken bolt

Slightly raise/lower the jack until the subframe is relaxed. A broken subframe bolt will be much harder to remove if the cradle is hanging on it.

Soak the upper captive nut/bolt area with penetrating oil

Use the access hole above the mount if you can reach it. Let it soak. Heat can help, but be careful because there may be undercoating, fuel/brake lines, wiring, and interior insulation nearby.

Try to remove the lower broken section first

If part of the broken bolt is still inside the metal sleeve/bushing assembly, drive or work that piece out so the bushing and sleeve are free.

Remove the upper broken bolt from the body/captive nut

If any of the bolt is protruding, grab it with locking pliers after soaking and working it back and forth. If it is flush or recessed, the normal repair is to center-punch it, drill it carefully, and use a quality extractor. If the extractor does not move it, stop before breaking the extractor off in the bolt.

If the captive nut breaks loose or the bolt will not extract

The repair may require opening the access hole enough to get to the nut plate/cage nut, then replacing the nut/bolt hardware. This is common on rusty subframe bolts. A welded nut, heavy washer/nut, or correct replacement cage nut setup may be needed.

Please upload a short video in your response of the problem, so I can see what's going on