Stiff steering after new rack and pinion installation?

Tiny
HUGH JAZZ
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 HONDA ACCORD
  • 170,000 MILES
I have been following this note on this other person's experience with a new rack and pinion installation (in quotes below). I am running into the same thing where the steering is stiffer now. I can still turn with one hand, but it is noticeably stiffer to steer.

"With the front wheels off of the ground and you have the engine off can you get the steering wheel turn normally with no binding? Can you grab either wheel and push and pull from the front and back of the tire to turn the wheels and you notice any binding?
Next you will need to disconnect the tie rod ends from each side so that the steering knuckle and steering rack are separated on both sides. Turn the steering wheel and see if you still feel any binding? If you do that you have a bad power steering rack, and it is defective. I have seen this happen on remanufactured racks. If the binding goes away, then grab each wheel or steering knuckle and forcibly turn the steering knuckle left and right. See if one side binds or the other. If you feel any binding in the steering knuckle the problem is either in the upper strut plate, which is the most common problem, or the lower ball joint is the bottom pivot point. One of these three items has to be the issue at this point. It's just a matter of isolating them out."


I went through the suggested steps testing the steering with and without the rack attached while on stands. And I pulled/pushed the front wheels. It moves back and forth with no real binding. There is a point where I hear a small click, but it doesn't really bind. There is no click when the rack is not connected.
Some things I have tried that did not seem to help:
With the steering wheel-rack coupler, one of the u joints was binding, so I replaced that with a new coupler
I flushed the system with new manufactures power steering fluid.
I tried another power steering pump I got from the junkyard.

Any suggestions to try next, or should I live with this and hope it "breaks-in" eventually?
Saturday, August 12th, 2023 AT 8:31 AM

7 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,363 POSTS
Here are a few additional suggestions you could consider:

Check for Proper Installation:

Check for Air in the System:

Inspect for Any Obstructions:

Inspect Suspension Components:

Verify Steering Column and Intermediate Shaft:

Drive and Monitor:
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Saturday, August 12th, 2023 AT 3:51 PM
Tiny
HUGH JAZZ
  • MEMBER
  • 36 POSTS
Thank you for your detailed and quick reply. These are the things I have tried since reading your note:
I went under the car, loosened the 6 bolts that retain the rack and pinion and retorqued. I also double-checked the direction of the mounting bracket and the proper tie-rod connections.

I had the car on stands and turned it on. Then I rotated the steering wheel fully left to right 30 times and also checked the reservoir for bubbles. I could not see any.

The upper and lower ball joints are very new replacements. With the tie rod connections removed, I turn rotated each front tire individually. They both move very smoothly.

I loosened the steering wheel-rack coupler and gave it some light taps with a rubble mallet to ensure no tension. Then I tightened the bolts.

I will continue to drive the car. But it is hard enough to move the steering wheel that I would not let my daughter drive it as it is.

If no improvements are found, do I assume it is the rack and pinion?
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Sunday, August 13th, 2023 AT 9:46 AM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,363 POSTS
Yep, it sounds like you have a defective rack and pinion. How does the pump sound when the engine is running? Also did you remove the caps from the lines on the rack? I know it is a dumb question, but I have seen it before.
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Monday, August 14th, 2023 AT 11:32 AM
Tiny
HUGH JAZZ
  • MEMBER
  • 36 POSTS
I called the rack manufacturer to see about getting a refund. On their advice, I put in a new pump, but that did not fix anything. I tested the pressure from the pressure sensor valve port. When the steering wheel is straight, the pressure is about 20 psi at idle. When I turned the wheel to the extreme right and left, the pressure exceeded 500psi (my gauge line burst, so I am unsure how much over 500psi it went). I thought the rack was not supplying needed back pressure, but the manufacturer tech didn't agree. He thinks the way they fail is one side is hard to turn (either the left or right but not both). He thought it was a flow issue. With all the testing I did, there is plenty of new oil that has been flushed through the system. I also took the reservoir out and backflushed the reservoir with soap and water, then dried it before reinstalling it. Before I go through the hassle of replacing the rack again and trying to get a refund, can I be sure it is a bad rack? The lines are about 4 years old. I did rev the engine and no improvement to power steering was noted.
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Saturday, August 26th, 2023 AT 7:32 AM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,363 POSTS
You have done everything else, the rack must be at fault.
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Sunday, August 27th, 2023 AT 9:27 AM
Tiny
HUGH JAZZ
  • MEMBER
  • 36 POSTS
Following through on this: It was a bad power steering rack. I ordered another remanufactured one from Napa this time and it worked!

Thanks for your help!
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Friday, September 8th, 2023 AT 6:29 AM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,363 POSTS
Glad you could get it fixed, thanks for letting us know. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.
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Saturday, September 9th, 2023 AT 9:31 AM

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