Starter is not turning over

First, any time there is an issue related to the electrical system, start at the beginning, the battery.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

Next, to confirm the starter isn't the issue, you need to check if the small solenoid wire at the starter gets power when the key is in the start position. Here is a link that shows how that is done.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Make sure the ground between the battery and the engine block are clean and tight.

Let me know the results.

Joe

I have already checked this. I've checked wires to starter and the one for ignition turning over doesn't have power going to starter when turning over. Checked with test light. Other one from battery has full power. I've checked the ignition switch wire running to starter relay and it's giving power but other end wire which runs to start from relay isn't receiving power. There are two other wires that run to relay, a dark green with orange strpie which runs to ECU. Then a yellow and Tan one that runs to totally integrated control module. I checked current on all fuses and are good so "tipm" should be good. I'm lost. So lost.

Here's diagram

I've also replaced the relay and still same situation

Welcome back. Here are the directions for testing the relay circuit. The attached picture correlate with these directions.

The starter relay is located in Power Distribution Center (PDC). Refer to PDC cover for relay identification and location. For complete starter relay wiring circuit diagrams, refer to Wiring Diagrams.

1. Remove starter relay from PDC
2. A relay in de-energized position should have continuity between terminals 87A and 30, and no continuity between terminals 87 and 30. If OK, go to Step 3. If not OK, replace faulty relay.
3. Resistance between terminals 85 and 86 (electromagnet) should be 75 ± 5 ohms. If OK, go to Step 4. If not OK, replace faulty relay.
4. Connect 12 V battery to terminals 85 an 86. There should now be continuity between terminals 30 and 87, and no continuity between terminals 87A and 30. If OK, perform Relay Circuit Test that follows. If not OK, replace faulty relay.

RELAY CIRCUIT TEST
1. The relay common feed terminal cavity (30) is connected to battery voltage and should be hot at all times. If OK, go to Step 2. If not OK, repair open circuit to fuse in PDC as required.
2. The relay normally closed terminal (87A) is connected to terminal 30 in the de-energized position, but is not used for this application. Go to Step 3.
3. The relay normally open terminal (87) is connected to common feed terminal (30) in the energized position. This terminal supplies battery voltage to starter solenoid field coils. There should be continuity between cavity for relay terminal 87 and starter solenoid terminal at all times. If OK, go to Step 4. If not OK, repair open circuit to starter solenoid as required.
4. The coil battery terminal (86) is connected to electromagnet in relay. It is energized when ignition switch is held in Start position. On vehicles with manual transmission, clutch pedal must be fully depressed for this test. Check for battery voltage at cavity for relay terminal 86 with ignition switch in Start position, and no voltage when ignition switch is released to On position. If OK, go to Step 5. If not OK with automatic transmission, check for open or short circuit to ignition switch and repair, if required. If circuit to ignition switch is OK, refer to Ignition Switch and Key Lock Cylinder. If not OK with a manual transmission, check circuit between relay and clutch pedal position switch for open or a short. If circuit is OK, refer to Clutch Pedal Position Switch.
5. The coil ground terminal (85) is connected to the electromagnet in the relay. On vehicles with manual transmission, it is grounded at all times. On vehicles with automatic transmission, it is grounded through park/neutral position switch only when gearshift selector lever is in Park or Neutral positions. Check for continuity to ground at cavity for relay terminal 85. If not OK with manual transmission, repair circuit to ground as required. If not OK with automatic transmission, check for pen or short circuit to park/neutral position switch and repair, if required. If circuit to park/neutral position switch is OK, refer to Park/Neutral Position Switch, Transmission.

Let me know if this helps.

Joe

I've checked everything. I'm trying to get harness off of the neutral position switch then reninstall it see if that'll let it crank over. If this doesn't work then I don't know. I'm not showing any codes for this switch though. No codes In that matter.

Let me know if that helps. If not, we'll figure it out.

Found out it was the fuse board that has wires going into the harness for starter relay. I believe that harness has a short cause I cut wires going to starter relay and spliced all together and had to throw bigger fuse into ignition switch spot on the "tipm" and now it fires right up no problem. I only believe that's issue cause I bought another relay and nothing happens besides of relay clicking for starter same as my old relay. So pretty much bypassed relay and it fires up.

I am glad you got it going, but I am a little concerned with the higher amperage fuse. Also, I am not sure what all was tied together. Make sure nothing is getting hot.

Take care,
Joe

The diagram I sent shows the four wires running into relay. It only has power when turning ignition switch over. Starts up just fine I am not sure if wires were loose in female plugs of relay harness. But yeah works great for now.

I did not receive any pictures. Regardless, if it is working properly, go with it. Just check things from time to time. The larger fuse still bothers me.