Stalls at stop lights

Tiny
JIM WOOD
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 PONTIAC GRAND AM
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 234,828 MILES
Stalls at stoplights idles fine when not in gear. Change out fuel pump, fuel filter, ICM, fuel regulator for rail, mass air flow sensor, spark plugs, coil packs all three, PVC value, o2 sensor upstream, clean throttle bore. Catalytic converter replaced 6 months ago, new transmission about a year ago. But still stalling at stoplights but idles okay when not in gear.
Tuesday, November 16th, 2021 AT 5:06 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
There are a number of things that can cause this, but we need to clarify the issue a little more. Clearly it cuts off at a stop light but does it only stall after driving the vehicle?

Meaning what happens if you start the vehicle and put it in gear? Does it stall as soon as you put it in gear, or do you have to drive the vehicle first?

Here is a guide that will get us started on this issue, but this may not apply if the vehicle does not stall unless you have to drive it first:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

If the vehicle stalls after driving it only, then I suspect you have an issue with the torque converter clutch not disengaging.

Basically, this is like not pushing the clutch in on a manual transmission when coming to a stop.

If the vehicle starts right back up and idles fine, then I am pretty confident that we have a torque converter issue, but we can get into this after you answer these questions for us. Thanks
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Wednesday, November 17th, 2021 AT 6:20 PM
Tiny
JIM WOOD
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  • 4 POSTS
It idles okay in park and neutral put it in drive and idle jump at stops and will shut off if I let it.
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Monday, November 22nd, 2021 AT 7:58 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
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Okay. If you are able to keep it alive that is usually not a torque converter issue. That issue will normally stall the engine very quickly and not give you a chance to keep it running.

So, if this is the case we need to start with a vacuum leak. It sounds like the air fuel mixture is unbalanced enough that when you add the load of the drive train that it stalls the engine.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Let me know what you find with this vacuum leak, and we can go from there.
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Tuesday, November 23rd, 2021 AT 12:24 PM
Tiny
JIM WOOD
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Haven't seen one and I did the carburetor cleaner test too all hose's look good and passed spray test.
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Wednesday, November 24th, 2021 AT 7:44 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
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Okay. So, if there is no vacuum leak then we are going to have to check the other basics to find out where the issue is.

Next is fuel pressure even though you changed most of that.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Basically, we need to start checking sensors and system operations to find out why it is stalling because to this point with these parts replaced, we are starting to make assumptions that things are okay when they are not.

Are you able to monitor o2 sensor data with a scan tool? If we can find out if this is rich or lean that will help point us in the right direction.
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Thursday, November 25th, 2021 AT 8:00 AM
Tiny
JIM WOOD
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Before it was coding bank 1 running rich. I can check to see if scanner can do co2 but I don't think it does will get back to you on that. I was planning on sensors next idle air sensor, MAP sensor, and 2 others in the air and fuel mixture dept an clean bore real good inside an out.
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Thursday, November 25th, 2021 AT 10:35 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
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It very well could be one or multiple of these sensors, but we are going to be guessing if we can't get a little more info. I suspect you are on the right path but if you are able to get a scanner to get a little more info on this. If not, those sensors and processes make sense.

Let us know what you find with this.
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Friday, November 26th, 2021 AT 5:40 AM

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