Solid red air bag SRS light on the dash?

The last thing you want to do is disconnect the battery. That isn't going to solve a mechanical problem. It will erase any diagnostic fault codes, then that valuable information is lost. At this point, if the warning light hasn't turned on again, you'd have to wait for that to occur, then start by reading the fault code(s).

In the past you needed a mechanic with a scanner to read codes in the Air Bag, Anti-lock Brake, and many other computers other than the Engine Computer. Today there are quite a few inexpensive code readers that can access those computers, and many even provide live data, like a scanner does, except the information updates painfully slowly.

You can also visit an auto parts store as the place to start. Most will read codes for you for free, but remember, they're in the business of selling parts. In air bag systems, most parts are dealer-only, and often repairs don't have to involve replacing parts.

Once you know the fault code number(S), post them in your reply and I'll look up the definitions for you.

I guess that fault may come back up with time and then I will put a code scanner on it. However my buddies Toyota Tundra has the same problem and he disconnected and reconnected the battery and the light never disappeared like mine.

A lot of people still think disconnecting the battery fixes something. That goes back to the 1980s and '90s when that WAS a common solution on GM cars. The reason we don't want to do that is those fault codes give us the information on where to start the diagnosis.

On Chrysler products, if an intermittent defect goes away or is repaired, any related fault codes self-erase after 50 engine starts. Other manufacturers have similar strategies but they will vary. An often misunderstood point is depending on the severity of the defect being detected, a warning light may turn off while you're driving, (relatively minor defect), or it may turn off the next time you start the engine, (slightly more serious), but when that happens, the fault code is still in that computer's memory waiting to be read.

If I let my minivan sit long enough, the battery runs down. If I catch it quickly enough that the engine still starts, the low voltage upsets a number of computers which are intolerant of that low voltage. They will set a number of codes, turn on their warning lights, and in the case of the Air Bag Computer, it turns itself off for that drive cycle. The light is off the next time I start it, and the system turns itself back on, but that fault code will stay there for a few weeks until I get a chance to read it. Codes for "low system voltage" can be ignored as that isn't really an air bag system problem. That's a case of it would turn the warning light off if you disconnected the battery, but that isn't necessary.

There are many dozens of potential "B-codes, (body), and "C"-codes, (chassis), where you'll find the codes for the air bag system. We really have to know which code you're dealing with to make a judgement call as to the possible causes and solutions. Probably the most common code among all car brands is for a broken "clock spring". That's a wound-up ribbon cable in a plastic housing under the steering wheel. I suppose that could start as an intermittent problem, but not for long. When that cable cracks apart, it's a permanent defect that's easy to diagnose, and as additional circuits in that cable crack, will eventually affect all the other switches on the steering wheel, like for the cruise control and horn. The corresponding fault code can be erased with a scanner, code reader, or by disconnecting the battery, but it will set again the next time the ignition switch is turned on. That "squib" or "initiator" circuit for the air bag on the steering wheel is monitored all the time the ignition switch is on.

Generally there are multiple crash or impact sensors that must trip at the same time for an air bag to be deployed. Each one of those will have two wires running from the computer to them. The computer has a method of determining if those two wires are shorted together, if either of them is "open", (as in cut), if either one is grounded, or if either one is shorted to 12 volts. Every one of those defects has its own dedicated fault code number and definition, and those are the types of things that are very commonly intermittent. Those are the frustrating ones where you think you did something to solve it, then the warning light and fault code come back a day or two later.

Those sensor circuits actually don't set fault codes very often. When they do, it is just as likely to be caused by corroded connector terminals, either right at the sensor, at the computer, or sometimes at connectors between them. Corrosion adds objectionable resistance between mating connector terminals, and on rare occasions can create a current path between two adjacent terminals in the connector body. The resistance that corrosion creates can change with changing temperature, changing humidity, engine vibration and rocking, and bumpy roads. If that corrosion causes a change in what the computer is watching, or measuring, it can be right on the threshold between appearing to be okay or appearing as a defective condition. Here again, you might erase the fault code and have it not reappear for days.

At this point my best advice is to not compare your truck to what happened on someone else's vehicle. If it were that easy, all we'd have to do to diagnose a problem is find it on a list and copy the solution. If you do get the warning light to turn on, read the code and post it, then I'll start with providing the definition.