Squeaking and knocking after oil change

CANNON1349

MECHANIC
2010 CADILLAC SRX
3.6L
6 CYL
4WD
AUTOMATIC
155,000 MILES

I know the timing chains were recalled and we have previously been dealing with engine codes relating to off-time problems. Just did an oil change, nothing out of the ordinary other than I only three to four quarts came out of the car, there is a slight valve cover leak. Now there is knocking, squeaking, and will not go over twenty mph. Did the oil change just completely do in the chains?

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1 Reply

KEN L

MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
47,722 POSTS

First I want to thank you for the video because trying to guess noises over the internet is tough. This engine has a rod knock and it is time for a replacement engine.

Here is information on how to get the engine out which comes out through the bottom:

Removal Procedure:

Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection

Remove the intake manifold cover. Refer to Intake Manifold Cover Replacement

Remove the tire and wheel assembly.

Remove the radiator air lower deflector. Refer to Radiator Air Lower Deflector Replacement
Drain the cooling system.

Drain the engine oil. Refer to Engine Oil and Oil Filter Replacement

Remove the air cleaner assembly.

Remove the battery and battery box.

Disconnect the transmission shiftier cable.

Disconnect the wiring harness from the under hood junction block.

Disconnect the radiator outlet hose from the engine.

Disconnect the radiator inlet hose from the engine.

Disconnect the generator positive cable.

Remove right side front wheelhouse liner.

Remove the right side engine mount.

Place block of wood between engine and frame, allow engine to rest on the frame.
Remove the A/C compressor.

Remove the radiator surge tank.

Remove the radiator inlet hose.

Remove the radiator outlet hose.

Disconnect the fuel feed line.

Disconnect the fuel evaporative emission (EVAP) line.

Disconnect the transmission fluid cooler outlet pipe.

Remove the catalytic converter left side.

Remove the catalytic converter right side.

Remove the starter.

Mark torque converter to flywheel relationship. Remove the torque converter bolts. Rotate engine clockwise only by the crank balancer bolt.

Remove both outer tie rods from the steering knuckles.

Remove the stabilizer shaft link.

Disconnect the lower ball joints from the knuckle.
Remove the wheel drive shafts from the hub/bearing assemblies.
Remove the propeller shaft
Disconnect the power steering cooler lines from the cooler.
Disconnect and re-position harnesses as required.

Position engine support table under vehicle and allow vehicle frame to contract table.
Remove the engine frame reinforcement bolts
Remove the engine from to the body bolts.
Raise vehicle away from powertrain.
Remove the power steering pump and position aside. Refer to Power Steering Pump
Attach engine lift hooks EN-46114-1 - To cylinder heads.
Attach appropriate engine hoist to the lift hooks and apply tension
Remove the front transmission mount from the engine.

Remove the rear transmission mount through bolt
Lift the powertrain assembly off the frame and place on the floor.
Separate the engine from the transmission.
Disconnect electrical connectors as necessary.
Transfer parts as necessary.

Here is a replacement engine for $2400.00:

http://www.jegs.com/i/ATK-Engines/059/VCT84WD/10002/-1?CAWELAID=230006180040120943&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=44693592161&CATCI=pla-224362047431&catargetid=230006180039220355&cadevice=c&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI17b-_Yuh2QIVTWF-Ch2pLAytEAYYASABEgKC0fD_BwE

The book gets 17.0 hours to do the job.

Check out the diagrams (below).

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken

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